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Supporting mods for a turbo set-up?

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Old 05-05-2012, 04:51 PM
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Question Supporting mods for a turbo set-up?

I bought the GReddy kit from a member on these forums complete with BOV, boost controller and Cobb AP. I have purchased wideband and boost gauges. I intend to install all of the above in the coming weeks. BUT I have questions that I have been searching the forums for.

1. What other Mods are recommended with a turbo set-up?

2. What are the "good" A/F numbers that I should be watching for?

3. With the Cobb AP, can I get tuned without buying there race software? (I.E. If I take to a tune shop can they tune without having their sofware.) ( I know MM offers this but it seems he is very popular and turn around time is a little long altho a great service) I am located in the Hinesville GA area.

I appreciate all feed back and welcome links to other threads. I have a flame suit and despite what same will say I did try searching the forums with and without Google help. I do not need opinions about FI or not to FI. Just cold hard facts about supporting mods.
Old 05-05-2012, 10:04 PM
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1. Injectors and fuel pump would be good for safety.

2. The ones that dont make your engine pop. Seriously loaded question.

3 No, the software is what is used to change parameters in the tune. The cobb itself is only good for changing which tune file is loaded and monitoring/logging your sensors. You can not change tune parameters from the handheld itself.

Seriously, you need to find a GOOD rotory tuner with turbo experience. Not just some "speedshop" guy.

Last edited by Mawnee; 05-05-2012 at 10:07 PM.
Old 05-05-2012, 10:11 PM
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You need to stop starting threads and start reading the threads in the major horsepower sub forum. Anything you can think of asking has already been asked before. You can get in over your head fast.
Old 05-05-2012, 10:22 PM
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I think he may already be, he bought the kit before asking the question
Old 05-05-2012, 10:23 PM
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I hope his wallet is fat.
Old 05-06-2012, 06:42 AM
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lol you guys are quick to jump to conclusions. I have been reading the forums for awhile lurking in the dark. Im new to the rotary but not new to engines. I have been trying to read the posts and learn what I need but EVERYONE has a different opinion and EVERY thread has a flame war going on.

I have a $10,000 budget. I bought the kit for $2600 used and have purchased a wideband and boost gauge for $500.

I already gutted the exhaust.

I have been reading about the Cobb and all I can seem to find is you have to find a shop that bought the access software or go to MM. I know I have to find a tuner that has some knowledge and not just a dyno tuning jockey.

I have read different F/A numbers but haven't found a range that will keep the engine from grenading. Your target AFR should be around 14.7:1 in vacuum, around 12.5:1 at static, and around 11.5-11.0:1 as you approach your peak boost level. This will achieve the best fuel economy while supporting for lots of airflow. Does this sound good to the knowledgeable rotorheads?

I did read about changing the injectors out to get more fuel. Moving the bigger 2 forward and upgrading the last one to kick in with more fuel.

I realize my ignorance can cost me alot of money, I will not complete a project until I have all the answers. I have been all over the internet searching for the help that is required to get the car running to get it to a good tuning shop and I would appreciate any help that could be given to help me succeed. Please keep all posts related to my thread. Your opinion is only useful if it pertains to supporting mods for a FI application, or your experience with an FI application.

Thank you

Last edited by livinnstix; 05-06-2012 at 06:52 AM.
Old 05-06-2012, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
You need to stop starting threads and start reading the threads in the major horsepower sub forum. Anything you can think of asking has already been asked before. You can get in over your head fast.

way to start flaming him already....
Old 05-06-2012, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by livinnstix
lol you guys are quick to jump to conclusions. I have been reading the forums for awhile lurking in the dark. Im new to the rotary but not new to engines. I have been trying to read the posts and learn what I need but EVERYONE has a different opinion and EVERY thread has a flame war going on.

I have a $10,000 budget. I bought the kit for $2600 used and have purchased a wideband and boost gauge for $500.

I already gutted the exhaust.

I have been reading about the Cobb and all I can seem to find is you have to find a shop that bought the access software or go to MM. I know I have to find a tuner that has some knowledge and not just a dyno tuning jockey.

I have read different F/A numbers but haven't found a range that will keep the engine from grenading. Your target AFR should be around 14.7:1 in vacuum, around 12.5:1 at static, and around 11.5-11.0:1 as you approach your peak boost level. This will achieve the best fuel economy while supporting for lots of airflow. Does this sound good to the knowledgeable rotorheads?

I did read about changing the injectors out to get more fuel. Moving the bigger 2 forward and upgrading the last one to kick in with more fuel.

I realize my ignorance can cost me alot of money, I will not complete a project until I have all the answers. I have been all over the internet searching for the help that is required to get the car running to get it to a good tuning shop and I would appreciate any help that could be given to help me succeed. Please keep all posts related to my thread. Your opinion is only useful if it pertains to supporting mods for a FI application, or your experience with an FI application.

Thank you
Yes you can tune an FI RX8 with the free (as in beer) Access Tuner Race software. Which I think you can still download.
Cobb no longer sells the RX8 AP and they have gone thru a big website redesign.
You use to be able to sign up and get a free download of the ATR software.

I couldn't find the web page to download the ATR software for the RX8 anymore so I posted a new thread asking for it.
http://www.cobbforums.com/forums/sho...218#post664218

EDIT ---- Found it, and in the options they still have RX8 MT and AT!
http://www.cobbtuning.com/accesstune...st-s/70716.htm

You can find the old Maps here for download
http://www.cobbtuning.com/AccessTUNE...upport-archive

The afr's you posted seem reasonable however 12.5 at static ... do you mean cruise?

I run almost 14.7 at most cruise loads and rpms.
For example under 4k rpm and below 40% calc load



Originally Posted by jtripp06
way to start flaming him already....
Dude?
Ah yeah ... you know that's how we roll around here.

Last edited by wcs; 05-06-2012 at 09:50 AM.
Old 05-06-2012, 11:33 AM
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WCS the A/F numbers are part of some information I found laying around the internet. I was hoping throwing that out there might get me some help on what the "proper" numbers might be.

Also appreciate the links, I had tracked down some of that info as well.
Old 05-06-2012, 11:38 AM
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I don't think you need to run that rich at cruise ... 12.5 afr seems pretty rich to me
Old 05-06-2012, 12:03 PM
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Guys, if you don't have anything to add to the thread, just don't comment on it. No need to be rude.
Old 05-06-2012, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Elara
Guys, if you don't have anything to add to the thread, just don't comment on it. No need to be rude.
Where did this come from?

This thread is great compared to some.

Did you post in the wrong thread Elara?
Old 05-06-2012, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by livinnstix
WCS the A/F numbers are part of some information I found laying around the internet. I was hoping throwing that out there might get me some help on what the "proper" numbers might be.

Also appreciate the links, I had tracked down some of that info as well.
A/fs:
idle 15:1
Light load 14.7:1 accel
Steady state cruise(were fuel economy comes from) 13.3-13.6 AFR
Boost to 3-4 psi 13.3 until 4.5k rpm then dropping to 11.5-1.
boost to 10psi 12.5
boost 10+ start at 12.0
BASELINE, you'd really want to check your EGT and richen it up in boost to keep the EGT down. 1650+ EGT is a soon to be dead motor.
Old 05-06-2012, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by lastphaseofthis
A/fs:
idle 15:1
Light load 14.7:1 accel
Steady state cruise(were fuel economy comes from) 13.3-13.6 AFR
Boost to 3-4 psi 13.3 until 4.5k rpm then dropping to 11.5-1.
boost to 10psi 12.5
boost 10+ start at 12.0
BASELINE, you'd really want to check your EGT and richen it up in boost to keep the EGT down. 1650+ EGT is a soon to be dead motor.
We speak in PSI but we should really be talking load, don't you think?


That being said
Wow you are running in the 12's at 10 psi eh? Cool.
Personally I would want to be in the 11's but hey, awesome.
Old 05-06-2012, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by wcs
We speak in PSI but we should really be talking load, don't you think?
I forget he's on the corn cobb-web, been tuning my FC this week.
Originally Posted by wcs
That being said
Wow you are running in the 12's at 10 psi eh? Cool.
Personally I would want to be in the 11's but hey, awesome.
I speak of 10 psi, as if you're running 15+ pounds. 10 psi would only occur during spool, and yes 12 would be about right as the boost is on it's way to 15(or more) the AFRs are dropping to 11's.


I've yet to turbo an 8, but the day is coming, so i'm not going to pretend to know what AFRs per LOAD EXACTLY, as i do have a good idea for when the day comes, but i don't have one "under my belt."

I'm hoping to sell my 2nd Rx-8 soon, and buy a white or black one for Da BEWST.

Last edited by lastphaseofthis; 05-07-2012 at 08:37 AM.
Old 05-07-2012, 12:23 PM
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hey livinnstix,
I am in GA also, post here if you find a rotary tuner in Atlanta. I have been looking for a while but my google-fu is failing me. Same as you, been looking into this a very long time and nearly ready to install the turbo, just getting the final details and looking at tuning options.

-fm
Old 05-07-2012, 01:23 PM
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look into getting an upgraded ignition and some cooling mods possibly.. oil pressure and fuel pressure gauges. make sure BOV is recirc'd. upgrade all couplers and clamps if they are the shitty greddy ones. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD RENISIS TUNNER.
Old 05-07-2012, 01:46 PM
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For the exhaust - gutting the cat is about all you need to do . I'm currently running with stock exhaust system (with gutted cat ) and have concluded that changing out any of it is not really necessary. Did have a freeflow system previously BTW so I was able to do a direct comparison at more whp than you will ever achieve with the stock Greddy.
Fuel system can cope with stock Greddy kit - leave it alone .
Tyres - 245s on the rear as a minimum is a good idea
Intake - definately upgrade the stock Greddy intake
Ignition - high quality leads and stock coils worked for me but if you want to spend some money upgrade to BHR
Guages - AFR and boost as an absolute minimum .
Cooling - An extra water radiator did wonders for my setup.

Also : https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/getting-most-out-your-greddy-turbo-without-breaking-bank-172542/

Last edited by Brettus; 05-07-2012 at 01:54 PM.
Old 05-07-2012, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by drfunkymonkey25
hey livinnstix,
I am in GA also, post here if you find a rotary tuner in Atlanta. I have been looking for a while but my google-fu is failing me. Same as you, been looking into this a very long time and nearly ready to install the turbo, just getting the final details and looking at tuning options.

-fm
Im in Hinesville just south of Savannah. I have found a few race shops but nothing Mazda specific. I plan to post all my findings after I get the turbo on and tuned. I might end up paying MM and going thru him.
Old 05-07-2012, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
For the exhaust - gutting the cat is about all you need to do . I'm currently running with stock exhaust system (with gutted cat ) and have concluded that changing out any of it is not really necessary. Did have a freeflow system previously BTW so I was able to do a direct comparison at more whp than you will ever achieve with the stock Greddy.
Fuel system can cope with stock Greddy kit - leave it alone .
Tyres - 245s on the rear as a minimum is a good idea
Intake - definately upgrade the stock Greddy intake
Ignition - high quality leads and stock coils worked for me but if you want to spend some money upgrade to BHR
Guages - AFR and boost as an absolute minimum .
Cooling - An extra water radiator did wonders for my setup.

Also : https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=172542
My exhaust is stock, cat replaced with straight pipe and aftermarket tips after the cat.
Ok good on fuel altho Ive read about swapping injectors.
Ignition Ill have to look into.
Gauges are on order.
Where did you put an extra radiator?

What are the thoughts on oil catch can? Also Ive heard you can add some kind of fuel reservoir under the hood to help with fuel starvation issues during heavy turns, anybody aware of such a mode?

Appreciate the link thats exactly the kind of info Ive been searching for!!

Last edited by livinnstix; 05-07-2012 at 06:22 PM. Reason: More info
Old 05-07-2012, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by livinnstix
Where did you put an extra radiator?
!
Mine is in place of the RH oil cooler (my JDM 8 didn't have 2 oil coolers) . Other people have put them on the undertray .


Originally Posted by livinnstix
What are the thoughts on oil catch can?
!
Yes - definitely have one of those !

Originally Posted by livinnstix
Also Ive heard you can add some kind of fuel reservoir under the hood to help with fuel starvation issues during heavy turns, anybody aware of such a mode?
!
Have not heard of anyone doing this - not sure how it would achieve much unless you added an extra pump also.



Also:add to above list :
Traction/wheel hop /diff tramp - upgrade rear shocks and fit heavy duty diff mounts !
Old 05-08-2012, 12:09 AM
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TX

Originally Posted by jtripp06
way to start flaming him already....
I'm not flaming, I'm helping. All of this stuff is here already, no one is doing him any favors repeating it here and possibly forgetting some things.

If anyone knows how complicated these builds can get, it's me. I wish him the best of luck and my best advice is to read, read, read.

Good luck OP.
Old 05-09-2012, 08:08 AM
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Check out my build thread. There are relevant posts in it to answer some of your questions. Kane started the Overboosted Boost Lords thread which is full of links to greddy builds. here is the linky to help you out there ------> Boostlords

There is a link in my Siggy to my build thread as well.
Old 05-27-2012, 03:57 PM
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Question Mission Complete... Kinda

I have the Greddy kit installed and the Car is running on about 5lbs of boost.

The Mods I have installed at the same time are:

*Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator w/ water wetter and 50/50 Water/Anti-Freeze.
*Godspeed universal catch can line in and line out to intake.
*Innovative Motorsports MTX-L Wideband F/R Ratio Gauge mounted in cups on center of dash.
*Innovative Motorsports Vaccum/Boost gauge mounted in cup on center of dash.
*ACT HDG6 6-puck center sprung with heavy duty pressure plate.

I have not had a chance to change the plugs but intend to buy the NGK's
BUR9EQP.

What other mods should I look into? Im looking at Injectors and the Walbro fuel pump. What else?

Also I have a turbo tune but am looking at getting MM to tune me up. Im running A/F of 14.9-15.5 at idle, A/F about 13 when cruising and A/F 11-12 under boost. I get alot of popping when I let off the throttle and the A/F gauge says 22.4 maxed out until I open the butterfly/throttle then goes back to A/F around 15. I have the BOV recirculating. Is this normal or do I have underlying issues?

Thank you to those who have helped me with USEFUL comments, appreciate any help that can be given.
Old 05-27-2012, 04:51 PM
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Partial throttle with high load, 100% calc load, I always get a pop when letting off the throttle.
I have a recirc setup as well.

Can't say that its normal but I believe its common.
I want to try and different Blow off valve, adjustable.

Make sure the input signal to the BOV is as short as possible, and creating a longer recirc path seems to help my pop issue out.


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