Pupi_182

You can see on the pictures..

skc

I had the same issue at the track. The problem is caused by a misalignment and it can be resolved by cutting the pipe and adding a silicon hump pipe. This will allow the aluminium pipe to sit in position.

In my situation my mechanic machined a aluminium ring that was placed at the plenum end and that pushed the pipe further back and the O ring has stayed in place since.

skc

Pictures also shows your O ring is exposed so the pipe needs to be pushed back

skc

Time slip. Hopefully I will get better with practice.

Lots of oil on the ESS from the oil leak from the pulley causing cel and hestiation

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

93.6 mph trap speed means your engine is only making mediocre NA power level

firecran

iTrader: (3)

Truth!

Hopefully he'll get it running better next time and we can see a better time/trap speed.

Pupi_182

I replaced the o-ring but the engine is still working bad..

https://youtu.be/nCpO0jeVHB0

skc

The first run was good at the start and I was way ahead of the car next to me however, I went from 2nd to 5th in the excitement.

I started noticing getting misfire codes after the second run and only noticed the excessive oil on the ESS the next day. The drags was held at night so I did not notice the excessive oil leak.

The lack of power was most evident when I got into 4th gear and it was not pulling as hard and some hesitation was evident.

I was expecting an ET of around 13.6 so I will try again in the near future.

skc

You also have to pay close attention to all the joints and ensure that you don't have any boost or vacuum leaks.

I am still using the original bypass valve however I experimented with several springs before I got it right. I currently have two springs cut down so when it is fully compressed the plunger goes in fully. I have a large diameter spring and a smaller spring sitting in the middle. This provides even force on the plate and stops it from getting snagged.

I also sealed the top of the bypass valve with sealant as it was another source of vacuum leak.

After tracking down all sources of leaks then it is a matter of getting a good tune.

skc

Car booked in to fix the crank oil leak.

Today I added another one way check valve to the vacuum going to the purge air line going to the fuel tank.

Also cleaned a lot of baked carbon on the trailing spark plug seat and cleaned the spark plugs and reinstalled. Subsequent run felt good and car ran strong.

Looking forward to the retune in the near future.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

You do understand that the purge air solenoid blocks the line except at start-up, right?

skc

I was not sure if the solenoid had the capacity to block any boost that may be added to that line so I added it as a precaution as I had a spare valve lying around.

Rote8

On mine, the jet air is connected to the plastic OMP distribution block, boost goes backwards through the jet air nozzles to pressurize the OMP injectors and allow oil to be injected during boost, are you saying I need a check valve here?.

skc

The lim is under vacuum at cruise and idle and during boost it presurises and pushes air out on the lim causing boost leak and adding boost to components that should not see boost.

The addition of a one way valve allows vacuum to operate as usual and prevents boost from escaping.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Yeah, it won't hurt anything, but the tank side of the solenoid would likely would never see boost unless the valve internals fail. Usually the solenoid energizer fails though and it's normally-closed (energizes to open) so it would be an extremely rare failure for sure. Plus your boost level is not that high. If you were running 3 bar or something it might be different. You are probably under 1 bar, right?

skc

Only running 8psi with original factory engine on 2003 model car with 100 000 mile on the engine. I will up the boost when I eventually rebuild with strengthened motor.

I will leave the check valve as an added precaution.

skc

I noticed a minor oil leak around the oil rear OMP injector. The black hose seemed to be connected and there was evidence of fresh oil on the nut-like mechanism. Space is limited so I fiddled around to find any loose hoses.

There was one hose that appeared to go to the fuel rail and when I pressed on it it seemed to move in and clicked. Perhaps it was loose???

I then sprayed some brake cleaner and then some water to clean the area.

On my way to work this morning the car was idling high at around 1800rpm. This usually means that the vacuum parameters have changed since the last start. So I did a quick 20 stomp and the idle was still high. I did it again after a little while and the idle finally dropped however, it is still slightly high a around 1000rpm.

Not sure if water on SSV connectors could have effected things? Although, this would have dried up after the drive to work.

I will investigate again when i get home this evening. The car runs fine and goes into full boost and redline as usual and no aparent loss of power.

skc

Puchased a new longer silicon coupler to replace the existing for the compressor outlet pipe. I had cut this pipe and the coupler and the clamp kept playing and loosing vacuum up as it was difficult to tighten. Now that I have a longer coupler I can put a better clamp and tighten it properly. This should now resolve the last of my vacuum leak issues.

The next plan is to clean the intercooler as there is a lot of oil in it from past. It appears the this issue has vastly improved.

At the same time I will take measurements to see if I can lay the intercooler flat for better cooling.

Then I can get this retuned.

skc

I had another go at adjusting the lower outlet pipe as I felt that the clamps was not fitting properly. I also found that the clearance for the lower pipe between the chasis is very tight and noticed gouge marks on the pipe so added a silicon hose around the suspect area and some clamps. I also added a metal spacer to stop the rubbing as a remporary measure.

The other big issue is that the lower pipe does not line up properly with the outlet pipe from the compressor. The joint is positioned in a bend in the pipe which also makes it difficult to fit a good quality T bolt clamp. Therefore, I had to make sure I could get to two pipes as close together as possible. The best way to do this is to push the lower pipe up as this pipe has more flex while the top pipe is rigid.

This method will still see one end on the pipe touching one end and the lower part of the pipe will have a 2 inch gap.

I carefully lined up the clamps and managed to tighten it up to finally achieve a good seal.

skc

Can anyone please confirm what the function of the metal vent pipe on the LIM does? (sits between the valves) In the standard car it vents to the intake.

In myset up it is hooked up to the oil filler tube via a catch can.

If it sees boost then i would like to add a one way check valve to that line.

https://www.rx8club.com/attachments/...116_124516.jpg

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Vent pipe? The jet air line?

skc

The jet air line is at the back of the LIM. This metal pipe sticks out at the front as shown on the photo in the link above

logalinipoo

Those two little tubes Are the Jet air. I think they keep fuel from pooling on intake at idle. It sweeps it into the ports.

They do see boost. I have mine run to the intake manifold post boost. I'd go for a check valve at least. I think 9K has said he removes them or caps it.

skc

Ok, I can only visibly see one. i will have to see how the other one is plumbed. The picture does show two pipes however one seems to be going to the fuel rail?

logalinipoo

you can only see one? you do mean the little tube that runs out of the primary port at the bottom?

There is one on each primary port. They connect straight through to the one jet air line on the outside of the lim.