I used a very fine sand paper to polish the brass disc as it seemed to get caught on the wall. I will call the tuner today to discuss my findings over the weekend.

 

a problem is that most off the shelf units use the same piston design. I only found one aftermarket butterfly valve, and it sounds like it has serious leak issues compared to the piston design.

I am at odds with myself on this one, part of me just thinks this issue could stem from where the bypass takes its vacuum, your tune, or any other factors. On the other hand maybe it is just a really bad design. It would be too easy to weld in an aftermarket design. What vacuum is the stock spring rated at?

 

we pettit guys can run without a spring. Maybe its the way its pumped in?
Kenne Bell has a butterfly type if you are interested.
We use an all aluminum type --they can be tested easily.
they do need its own dedicated vacuum line.

 

brass is a soft but self lubricating metal, how did yours get caught?

 

One of the Hymee kit owners is using the softest spring from the following kit. http://www.etektuning.com/forge-valv...ng-tuning-kit/

 

The brass disc was touching the wall in some places. Loosening the bolt would help it move freely however, I was worried that over time it could come loose so I kept experimenting until it moved freely.

 

the wall of the cylinder, or the wall of the bypass (black part)

 

The brass disc inside the cylinder had friction, the plunger moves freely.

 

can you get a pic of your bypass posted--having a little difficulty following....

 

yeah, I have one and i'm have trouble...

the brass disk and "plunger" seem to be one unit on mine.

I have the aluminum cylinder, the cap held on by a C-clip, the spring, and then a once piece brass plunger that closes off airflow when closed. I also have an allen wrench thingy on the side that seems to serve no purpose.

 

so yours has an actuator arm that pushes/pulls the piston?
Ok I have seen those types. Same principle as ours. On ours the vacuum opens and shuts the piston directly. So it is important to not have a vacuum leak around that internal piston for us.
It is a moving part and therefore can wear. If you have lost boost--try adding a small amount of oil to the bypass piston to see if that better seals it?

 

mine doesn't have the arm, its like yours where the piston is directly influenced by vacuum. I was planning in using engine assembly oil on the walls to ensure a seal.

 

Difficult to take good photos of this part with a camera phone as it is very shiney.

There are two photos showing the bottom piston that sits within the bypass passage. The piston then moves up under certain boost condition.

The second photo is from the top. The brass disc is screwed to the piston and it has a spring that sits on top of the disc. There is a cap that is held by a retaining clip that holds the pieces together.

 

ok i got you now, you know i think if you take that allen screw out you could fill the space under the disk with assembly or gear oil.

 

the cap is only held by a retaining clip? Could that possibily be a leak source? Ours screw together with an o ring gasket to seal the 2 parts together.

 

I will lubricate it however it will only be a small amount as excess lubricant will leak back into the plunger as there is nothing to seal it in. The disc moves up and down so filling with oil stop it from operating.

Will a smear of bearing grease work?

 

The retaining ring holds it in place with the spring pushing the cap upwards thus holding it in place .This is a weak spot I will try some RTV when I disassemble it next.

 

I would be concerned about bearing grease lack of flow. Im thinking just a heavy gear oil.

 

Success!! Applied RTV to the cap and around the base of the part for a good seal. It is now boosting past 10psi again.

However, after the car warmed up the idle while coasting problem has resurfaced. I will have to check my vacuum hoses again. While rolling it can get up to 1800rpm and at standstill it varies between 1200 to 1500.

I will change the ESS profile to see if there is a differance.

 

Car running well boost and idle is strong.

I noticed that the water injection clean has vastly reduced the oil blow by in the catch can. My theory on corner seals springs being gummed up with carbon may have been correct.

 

good news and +1 for the cleaning affect of the w/m
are you injecting before the sc or after and how big of a nozzle are you using?

 

He isn't talking about injection OD

 

He is referring to the steam clean procedure he had done recently

 

Ohhhhhhhhhhh--well --w/m does about the same thing I just run mine every now and then for the cleaning purposes.

 

Car survived the track day at Queensland Raceway today. It was a hot day and I was overheating on my 4th lap so I would back off for half a lap and go hard again. This means I will need to investigate cooling mods such as vented hood, larger oil cooler, water sprays and second radiator. The oil temp got to 110 deg celcius and the water temp needle moved towards the hot end. When it did the engine was bogging so i had to back off anyway.

The persistant oil leak is still there and I just have to live with it for now. One solution to fix the oil leak is to take the engine out and reinstall the supercharger inorder to properly tighten the oil feed lines. The lack of space makes tightening these lines difficult. The other option is to have a sealed oiling system.

The car appears down on power so I will look at the bypass valve and exhaust to ensure there are no leaks.