skc supercharger build
 

Car went into the shop yesterday for the installation and tune. It will be away for around two weeks. With the following mods being carried out:
1 Super charger install
2 After market header- ceramic coated
3 100 cell highflow catalytic converter with resonator 3" inch pipe from SMB
4 lightweight flywheel
5 09 fuel pump upgrade
6 upgraded injectors
7 upgraded ignition coils
8 silicon vaccum lines
9 adjustment to control arm for more negative camber to front wheels (up to -6)
10 Gauge and dash mount gauge pod holder

Other possible upgrades will be fresh air ducts to radiator and air box, larger oil cooler.

The current list of modifications are:
Hymee exhaust
Whiteline sway bars
Tein Monoflex adjustable suspension (10kg front and 8kg rear springs)
Front brake Project U slotted rotors and HC+ pads
Rear brake RDA slotted rotors with Project U pads
Track tyres Bridgestone RE55
Aftermarket front strut brace
Replica Mazda speed front bumper bar
Second oil cooler

await with interest - good list .

Keen to see how this turns out as well. The tuner, GT Auto has worked on a couple of FI RX 8"s before. He is well known for his tuning abilities in Brisbane so I believe it is all in good hands.

What SC?

Also what injector set up are you going with?

Hymee, unit from Revolvers car with upgraded oiling seal and smaller pulley. With the injectors I am looking at Yellows from series 2 and blues from auto.

I thought so but was not 100% sure. It is my plan to run the blues from a four port auto in the P2.

Many of the Petite guys are running the stock injector set up. I really did not see the need to go radical with my injector set up.

Sounds like a really good build! It will be an awesome car man.

If I may --you may want to rethink the headers? By report from Pettit, a header with heat wrap/ceramic coating may be holding the heat around the rear exhaust port longer than it needs to be. That can cause a potential problem in time. Besides headers ( unless they have a really proper design) dont offer much in the way of performance over the oem manifold.
Good lucj with the build and keep us informed--pics too!
OD

Subscribed!

My Hymee build thread has a lot of fluff cuz its focus is on the build of the car and not just the SC kit but you should swing buy and do some reading.

What oil are you using in the SC itself? Also how do you fill, check and know the proper amount to fill the SC unit since it is no longer connected to the engine oil supply?

skc - you will have a nightmare getting the Hymee to idle (off throttle) if you are using a piggyback and not the Protuner or Cobb . I saw in the other thread you still have PT - you will need it !

My oiling system uses engine oil as per the original design. Danny, from RX8+ automotive managed to redesign the system to resolve the oil leak.

I guess the tuning will the the critical part of the exercise. I appreciate all your comments and I will be discussing all options with the tuner.

I am thinking of opening up the area between the intercooler and radiator. This would involve cutting a section of the undertray and then covering it up with a mesh grille.

What are your thoughts, will it aid or hinder the cooling process. I am worried about the lack of air getting to the radiator due to the massive IC.

That was the first thing i noticed about the kit . I had huge cooling issues when i briefly had a 300 deep IC in place . The Hymee IC is not that wide so will be better than what i had . Probably wont be an issue unless you track it .
Do you have 2 oil coolers ?

The car will be tracked on a regular basis. I have two oil coolers and also looking at changing one to a larger unit to compliment the larger opening in the mazda speed bumper

/\ in that case I think you would be better going with an IC similar to what the Greddy kit uses .
550x230x65 is a common size and will do the job nicely .

although mounting that up high will stuff up your pipework ... :(

mmm, I guess it will now be a process of fitting the existing system, testing and finding solutions that work. The first will be directing more air towards the radiator and if that fails then look at IC placement and size.

BTW . There has been a lot of discussion about cutting the underpanel . I believe consensus is that it is detrimental to cooling .

My concern was that air will escape and not get to the radiator. Another option is a scoop below the front bumper however my car is lowered so it will not work either.

I will have to try other ducting methods first, test it out then plan from there.

The header is being ceramic coated on the inside and outside. I would assume that this will lead to less heat near he exhaust port as the internal coating will reduce the heat absorption. The design appears to be less restrictive then the OEM so it should some benefit.

Ok inside too. Thats better! But remember --heat has to go somewhere and if it is continuing down the pipe watch your cat--it may not be able to take it? Or can you mount it further down the exhaust pipe? You probably already thought of that.

On cooling--youre a/c condensor will be removed? Thats a BIG help if you do that.
If you are going to track this car a lot you really may want to look at a V mount set up?
There is no way to get proper aitflow through the oem radiator with a big a/a intercooler up front. It just blocks too much airflow.
Do not cut the undertray--that will make matters worse.
Radiators work on a pressure difference between the front and rear. Cutting the undertray will allow the pressure in front of the radiator to escape.
And going with another aftermarket oil cooler is a very smart decision!

I actually think the combined two stock oil coolers are enough but the stock thermostat inside of them hinders there operation.

Some day when I have time i want to take apart mine remove and drill out the thermostat units and housings and replace them with a single return style unit for both coolers.

I have had one out and it is not in the way of flow? I jimmed the thermostat open with a spacer and it did not reduce oil temps at all. Each cooler has a thermostat--i wonder why Mazda didnt plump these things in parellal? that would work better. The passenger side oil cooler doesnt get nearly as hot as the drivers side. just like Hoss said--Mazda did not do a good job with the oil cooler plumbing.

Clutch fitted and oil filter relocation in progress

IMO a V-Mount setup is the way to go if you have the guts to cut the hood for a custom vent duct outlet, it has been grossly overlooked on the RX8

Hmmmm wonder if the oil relocation will fit with my S2 transmission.

The lines are fairly long so it could be mounted elsewhere if required.

Hoss --on the drivers side you have plenty of room. on the passenger side is where it is tight.
I mounted mine on the firewall. I didnt want to be crawling under the car to change oil. i use a suction machine to evacuate the oil --you actually can get more out that way.
I also wanted the filter pointing up so it doesnt make a mess when you take it out and you dont have an empty filter when you change the oil and 1st start it up.

NICE LOOKING PACKAGE OP! I hate working with those SS lines

Supercharger installed and a photo of the extractor.

Should be ready for the tuner by the end of the week.

nice progress!
If I could offer something ....that plate around the alternator? That thing is going to get really HOT. Do what you can to increase the spacing and or heat shield it from the alternator.
On one track day for example when the ambient was 105F--my alternator MELTED the edges on the belt. It had to be replaced.
So with the plate that hot and touching the tube of your a/a intercooler --you will be fighting yourself?

I thought oil filter relocation for the S2 was a no-no due to pressure drop.

I will be using a S2 transmission in my S1, it has some updates in increase oil pressure.

SKC the SC is looking good! Hopefully I can get mine started soon as well.

I am looking at getting a vented bonnet to help reduce temps in that area.

reading fail on my part

Installation almost complete. Should be at the tuners this week.

wow that's definitely a different looking SC for the 8; I haven't seen that before, nice use of the stock airbox... Looks good man, can't wait to see some numbers

Looks Great man! I cant wait till i am at that point.


O really, I can help you with that if you want to fly down and give me a hand with mine :)

^ Haha I'd love the Vacation but between a hefty speeding ticket and a new alternator/battery combo last week funds are tight..... I'm more experienced on the turbo installs anyway but hell yeah I'd help for the learning experience.

Why do I have to be so far away from other 8ers :(

All components hooked up. Waiting to get loaded onto a tow truck to go to the tuner.

Nice--keep us informed of your findings?
I really like the way you were able to keep the oem airbox and maf pipe.

why dont you remove the air pump? it sure would give you a lot more room?

Boost leak!! Will hopefully have it sorted tomorrow.

Seems to run all the way to the redline with no problems.

Where is your boost leak?

One of the intercooler hose clamps is the likely culprit.

I just read both pages of the thread and I will make a few comments.

First looking good, hope things go well.

Cooling: You will have heating issue when tracking the car hard, I promise.

I cant see how thick the intercooler is, but chances are that it will highly restrict the air flow to the radiator which will cause cooling issues. Ways to address the problem. A smaller intercooler was mentioned, that would help, or you can have a wielder cut the top or bottom off and wield your current intercooler to make it smaller. Also, be sure you have everything from the grill to the radiator sealed off. Same goes for your oil coolers. You dont want any air escaping. Ducting before and after the intercooler will make a big difference too.

If a smaller FMIC and ducting dont fix the cooling issue you can easily install a secondary radiator. Basicly get a small oil cooler maybe 10X10X2, plumb it into the heater hoses and mount it somewhere that gets air flow. The easiest place is laying flat on top of the underpanel. You can cut some small holes in the underpanel below it. The air passing above the cooler should do the trick.

The other option is going to a large single oil cooler on the left side (AUS passenger side) mount the secondary radiator on the right size (AUS Drivers side). Warning about a custom single oil cooler. You will want to install a thermostat and be sure you put really big single cooler in there (3" thick and the entire size of the MS bumper opening). You dont want to create an oil cooling issue by trying to fix a engine coolant problem.

Thank you for your comments Highway8. I have further cooling upgrades in mind and my thinking has been along the same lines as your suggestions. We are in our winter at the moment with day time temps of around 20 degrees Celsius. On the dyno we have not witnessed any overheating yet.

However, in summer the ambient temps go up to around 30 deg or more sometimes, this is where I may struggle.

I also compete in sprint events where I may only do 7 laps at a time so the car is not under strain for that long. So at this stage I will monitor temps and make incremental changes as they become necessary.

Love the feed back guys.

Finally, I can report on the final numbers for the Hymee Supercharger kit.

The torque curve appears to rise very sharply so I expect the car to perform very well. I have not driven it yet as it is being checked before release.

This power is based on the standard pulley.

Not bad - bet you can't wait to get her opened up ....

Congrats!

For us imperial guys that =

182.1 ft pounds of torque
and
259.48 horse power

I was expecting around 200kw however, I guess the massive jump in torque should keep me smiling for a while.

So in the end a peak of 259HP is good and I have the option to go to a smaller pulley in the future.

The next chapter will be seeing how it goes on the track, especially in the warmer months and then making changes where necessary.

So, looking forward to getting behind the wheel.

the numbers confused me for a bit until I realized it was kW and Nm. lol

what's the boost pressure on the standard pulley?