View Poll Results: Which to use for hot side pipes? Stainless or Aluminized?
Stainless - I don't care about higher price I want it to be nice and shiny.



4
50.00%
Aluminized - Keep the costs low. As long as it reasonably clean and runs well I am in



4
50.00%
Voters: 8. You may not vote on this poll
RotoRocks Remote Turbo Stage II
I'm wondering where #1 the airfilter will go to be protected from elements and sucking in water.
As well as how the turbo will deal with water (and potentially snow) hitting it from under the car.
As well as how the turbo will deal with water (and potentially snow) hitting it from under the car.
If an air filter at the same height as the muffler is in danger of sucking in a dangerous amount of water, you shouldn't have been driving there! The problem isn't as bad as many think it is. If there is water that is higher than curb level, you shouldn't be driving in it. The air filter on this is higher than that.
There is also no issue with water or snow or other elements hitting the turbo. Take a look at where the turbos on a Porsche 911 are mounted sometime. They are right there above the ground exposed to the elements.
There is also no issue with water or snow or other elements hitting the turbo. Take a look at where the turbos on a Porsche 911 are mounted sometime. They are right there above the ground exposed to the elements.
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From: Buddhist Monastery, High Himalaya Mtns. of Tibet
You may be thinking of the Scanalyzer which will soon have tuning capability.
Even the Cobb unit, as proposed, doesn't have tuning capability. You can only reflash with a couple of fixed maps. A tuning module may come later.
Last edited by alnielsen; Jan 21, 2008 at 01:25 PM.
You can't tune with a Scanguage. It only displays interprets the signals coming out of the EMU.
You may be thinking of the Scanalyzer which will soon have tuning capability.
Even the Cobb unit, as proposed, doesn't have tuning capability. You can only reflash with a couple of fixed maps. A tuning module may come later.
You may be thinking of the Scanalyzer which will soon have tuning capability.
Even the Cobb unit, as proposed, doesn't have tuning capability. You can only reflash with a couple of fixed maps. A tuning module may come later.
That way the end user would be able to load up their own maps (in theory) and run reliable without spending $$$$$ on tuning.
As well aluminized works as well and is half the price, just get some high temp paint on it and it'll last
Still more concerned about the water...as water can splash up, people here are scared to drive with CAIs all year round, this filter looks like it sits even lower than a CAI would (But pictures CAN be deceiving) it would be nice to see a nice metal box being built to shelter the airfilter somehow...wonder if it could work.
Actually I just thought of something, it's not really a concrete idea, I think a filter box with a 'tube' or ' 'duct' (extending from the box being the only opening) moved higher could have some merit in shielding the box from water, don't build the box water tight, 'drain' spaces so water can drain out, but not alot of water can get in, and if water gets into the 'tube/duct' thing (which if directed, very little water will get in, but the water that does can be drained out). I'd need to get under the car to see if it's possible, but winter + under car = ftl.
Another suggestion (going off the idea of clothes) is to use a waterproof type laminate that isn't windproof...kinda like Gortex, which is waterproof but very breathable (But is considered windproof, so it wouldn't let enough air though) or a material with a nice DWR finish (that's breathable) as a secondary cover for the filter...I don't know if such a material exists though...I just know it works well in winter by keeping elements out, but letting my body breath (so I don't trap lots of sweat and freeze because sweat freezes)
Last edited by Daemos; Jan 21, 2008 at 07:47 PM.
Without revealing too much:
Mens Warehouse: "you're gonna like the way you look, I guarantee it!"
RotoRocks Turbo: You're gonna like the way it runs, I guarantee it!
He he he.
As I build it, you will see.
Mens Warehouse: "you're gonna like the way you look, I guarantee it!"
RotoRocks Turbo: You're gonna like the way it runs, I guarantee it!
He he he.
As I build it, you will see.
Wait I thought about that doesn't the 911 have underbody panels to control airflow and reduce turbulence under the car? On a normal Carrera there are panels that go from the front of the car to the back of the car covering the engine, so wouldn't the turbos be covered as well? So in a way they would be protected?
Still more concerned about the water...as water can splash up, people here are scared to drive with CAIs all year round, this filter looks like it sits even lower than a CAI would (But pictures CAN be deceiving) it would be nice to see a nice metal box being built to shelter the airfilter somehow...wonder if it could work.
Actually I just thought of something, it's not really a concrete idea, I think a filter box with a 'tube' or ' 'duct' (extending from the box being the only opening) moved higher could have some merit in shielding the box from water, don't build the box water tight, 'drain' spaces so water can drain out, but not alot of water can get in, and if water gets into the 'tube/duct' thing (which if directed, very little water will get in, but the water that does can be drained out). I'd need to get under the car to see if it's possible, but winter + under car = ftl.
Another suggestion (going off the idea of clothes) is to use a waterproof type laminate that isn't windproof...kinda like Gortex, which is waterproof but very breathable (But is considered windproof, so it wouldn't let enough air though) or a material with a nice DWR finish (that's breathable) as a secondary cover for the filter...I don't know if such a material exists though...I just know it works well in winter by keeping elements out, but letting my body breath (so I don't trap lots of sweat and freeze because sweat freezes)
Still more concerned about the water...as water can splash up, people here are scared to drive with CAIs all year round, this filter looks like it sits even lower than a CAI would (But pictures CAN be deceiving) it would be nice to see a nice metal box being built to shelter the airfilter somehow...wonder if it could work.
Actually I just thought of something, it's not really a concrete idea, I think a filter box with a 'tube' or ' 'duct' (extending from the box being the only opening) moved higher could have some merit in shielding the box from water, don't build the box water tight, 'drain' spaces so water can drain out, but not alot of water can get in, and if water gets into the 'tube/duct' thing (which if directed, very little water will get in, but the water that does can be drained out). I'd need to get under the car to see if it's possible, but winter + under car = ftl.
Another suggestion (going off the idea of clothes) is to use a waterproof type laminate that isn't windproof...kinda like Gortex, which is waterproof but very breathable (But is considered windproof, so it wouldn't let enough air though) or a material with a nice DWR finish (that's breathable) as a secondary cover for the filter...I don't know if such a material exists though...I just know it works well in winter by keeping elements out, but letting my body breath (so I don't trap lots of sweat and freeze because sweat freezes)
Your concerns have come up many times before in regards to the STS turbos for LS1 F-bodies, GTos, corvettes, mustangs etc.. The fact is that you would have to submerge the filter to create enough suction to suck up enough water to damage the engine. First off the turbo is hot, so small amounts of water, if they got in, would falsh to steam. Second it is a long intake tract that gives the water more time to vaporize. Third when its raining out you wont be going into boost, so you arent going to have a huge vacuum at the filter to suck up water. the filter does an admirable job of keeping water and objects out. Some who have been very concerned about water and debris have used K&N pre-filter socks over their filters. Similar in idea to your thoughts on gore-tex.
BC
Your concerns have come up many times before in regards to the STS turbos for LS1 F-bodies, GTos, corvettes, mustangs etc.. The fact is that you would have to submerge the filter to create enough suction to suck up enough water to damage the engine. First off the turbo is hot, so small amounts of water, if they got in, would falsh to steam. Second it is a long intake tract that gives the water more time to vaporize. Third when its raining out you wont be going into boost, so you arent going to have a huge vacuum at the filter to suck up water. the filter does an admirable job of keeping water and objects out. Some who have been very concerned about water and debris have used K&N pre-filter socks over their filters. Similar in idea to your thoughts on gore-tex.
BC
BC
Got my T3 flange, and 3" in/out high flow catalytic which will be going after the turbo. There won't be any more smell. 





Last edited by rotorocks; Jan 27, 2008 at 11:43 PM.
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From: Buddhist Monastery, High Himalaya Mtns. of Tibet
If you are going to run a cat, how much thought have you given to the placement. If you put it infront of the turbo, wouldn't that create more heat for the turbo to make use of? It may be a flow restriction there, but it would be a restriction after the turbo too.
rotorocks: The images aren't showing up correctly, I have to copy and paste the links into the address bar for them to show up.
and you found a way to put in a cat *AFTER* the turbo (piping wise)? or are you saying you are going to mount it after you mount the turbo (time wise)? Sorry studying like a madman for exams here
and you found a way to put in a cat *AFTER* the turbo (piping wise)? or are you saying you are going to mount it after you mount the turbo (time wise)? Sorry studying like a madman for exams here
I have driven with the stock cat in place for a while (and it was before the turbo) and it spooled not much different from what it does now. Argue all you want, but in the end though temps may help with spool, it is in my opinion negligible. It is the volume and speed of gas that spins the turbine.
The cat will be far, far away from the collector, and most likely will never see temps higher than 1200F or so, where it is to be placed.
If proven to be a significant restriction, I'll delete it later. I want it, because I am tired of the smell the car produces when idling with Int-X, as I am sure many will be after a while.
The CAT option is going to be just that, an option, for people who wants a fast, and pleasant DD car.
rotorocks: The images aren't showing up correctly, I have to copy and paste the links into the address bar for them to show up.
and you found a way to put in a cat *AFTER* the turbo (piping wise)? or are you saying you are going to mount it after you mount the turbo (time wise)? Sorry studying like a madman for exams here
and you found a way to put in a cat *AFTER* the turbo (piping wise)? or are you saying you are going to mount it after you mount the turbo (time wise)? Sorry studying like a madman for exams here

Physically, after turbo.
Last edited by rotorocks; Jan 25, 2008 at 12:53 PM.
They load for me now on the page because they are stored in the browser's cache. If I open it up in a different browser or clear the cache the images don't load unless if I view them first by copying and pasting into the address bar to view them =/
And if you can fit a cat AFTER the turbo you have skills (From the images I've seen)
And if you can fit a cat AFTER the turbo you have skills (From the images I've seen)
Welds can be messy IMO, they don't need to be clean, as long as they are sealed it's all good
.
Worse comes to worse, the person who buys your kit can file down the welds (a little) if they think they're ugly :p
The question now is...how do you get the CEL for no cat to turn off when the cat goes after the turbo? I guess that would just be extending the O2 sensor harness and placing a bung somewhere else...
.Worse comes to worse, the person who buys your kit can file down the welds (a little) if they think they're ugly :p
The question now is...how do you get the CEL for no cat to turn off when the cat goes after the turbo? I guess that would just be extending the O2 sensor harness and placing a bung somewhere else...
Last edited by Daemos; Jan 25, 2008 at 01:05 PM.
I don't even use the stock sensor to begin with. Int-X do not need it. And the thrown cell i just ignore
but to address your concern, yes, a bung will be installed in an alternate location.
but to address your concern, yes, a bung will be installed in an alternate location.
haha...the int-x is just a piggy back, it doesn't learn, I'm hoping (if you even have time) to make a map for the cobb accessport (if it ever comes out) or hyamee's new ecu flash device thing
that way the car can still adjust to various temps and altitudes without needing a retune.
The remote turbo looks 1000x easier than installing a procharger in my old sentra (which took cutting of sheetmetal to get everything to fit)
Are you using a Oil Filter adapter for the feed/return lines? Did you get another pump to help the oil move to the rear of the car and back to the front again?
that way the car can still adjust to various temps and altitudes without needing a retune.The remote turbo looks 1000x easier than installing a procharger in my old sentra (which took cutting of sheetmetal to get everything to fit)
Are you using a Oil Filter adapter for the feed/return lines? Did you get another pump to help the oil move to the rear of the car and back to the front again?
yes for adapter, yes for easier install, and yes for the oil pump 
when the new tools for tuning come out, and become well tested, i will use them.
I do not wish to be a guinea pig on those.
Int-X can adjust based on intake temps, but it is coarse and can only give or take a 1% at a time for the entire fuel curve.
I really don't get it, why they made it so god damn coarse. what had stopped the micro tech from making the fuel cells adjustable by increments of 1, instead of 5, or by increments of 0.1% instead a whole percent?
It takes quite a bit to figure the base map, but once it is set, you'll always get your fuel when you need it.

when the new tools for tuning come out, and become well tested, i will use them.
I do not wish to be a guinea pig on those.
Int-X can adjust based on intake temps, but it is coarse and can only give or take a 1% at a time for the entire fuel curve.
I really don't get it, why they made it so god damn coarse. what had stopped the micro tech from making the fuel cells adjustable by increments of 1, instead of 5, or by increments of 0.1% instead a whole percent?
It takes quite a bit to figure the base map, but once it is set, you'll always get your fuel when you need it.
Last edited by rotorocks; Jan 27, 2008 at 11:47 PM.
Working on it bro... as well as trying to organise a SOFL meet: https://www.rx8club.com/se-rx-8-forum-30/sfl-meet-organisation-lets-do-136353/
Looks like we don't have one of our own here. WTF?
Looks like we don't have one of our own here. WTF?









