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Series I Major Horsepower Upgrades This is the place to discuss Super Chargers and Turbos, Nitrous, Porting, etc
View Poll Results: Which to use for hot side pipes? Stainless or Aluminized?
Stainless - I don't care about higher price I want it to be nice and shiny.
4
50.00%
Aluminized - Keep the costs low. As long as it reasonably clean and runs well I am in
4
50.00%
Voters: 8. You may not vote on this poll

RotoRocks Remote Turbo Stage II

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Old 09-14-2007, 02:42 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Red Devil
Is this like a 54trim, 57?
Somewhere there, i forget exactly which I have presently. but it spools quickly and holds boost to about 7500 on MT
Old 09-14-2007, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by chickenwafer
I voted for stainless. You said you don't mind the higher price so why not??


I do, because this prototype is being built out of my pocket. The question was directed to you, so basically you said that you don't mind to pay more.

Now pay up, or say hello to my little friend .
Old 09-14-2007, 02:51 PM
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Of course I don't mind the extra cost!!! I'm not paying for it!
Old 09-14-2007, 03:10 PM
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I would only except a quality stainless steel. It will last forever and look better after use up north here.
I used to have a boat. I wouldn't even except chrome plating due to corrosion.
Old 09-14-2007, 03:17 PM
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+1 on stainless since it will hold up better in the heat and elements and not corrode as quickly.
Old 09-14-2007, 04:19 PM
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Forget it.
Stupid poll, off course it should be stainless.
that's not even a question. How do I remove the poll?
Old 09-14-2007, 04:23 PM
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Poll closed.......S
Old 09-14-2007, 04:25 PM
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thanks stealth
Old 09-15-2007, 03:27 PM
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Thanks to Devin who visited me today, I was able to measure and do a real size sketch of the exhaust piping for the new system. What can I say, if everything plays out like I plan it to It is going to be a one bad *** setup. That much I can promise you
Old 09-16-2007, 03:13 PM
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No problem man, my pleasure. Thanks for letting me drive your car. Although its not running at full boost, it was great, very fast.

Guys, this stage two kit is gunna be great if it works out how he drew it up

Have fun at Sevn Stock Vlad! I cant wait to get started on our build.
Old 09-16-2007, 05:11 PM
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Thanks, man. can't wait to get to work on it myself.

Talking about the boost.
a few days ago my car has developed this nasty boost leak. The sound of air hissing is so loud wen idling, that it can be heard from the inside the car with windows down. Needless to say, i can't make more than 6 PSI of boost with it.
Visual inspection did not reveal the source of the leak, ad by just listening, it is very difficult to pinpoint the location (other that it is coming from the manifold)
What is a good way to hunt this sort of issues?
Old 09-16-2007, 07:17 PM
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smoke
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Old 09-16-2007, 09:25 PM
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You mean Smoke in the intake, and see where it comes out in boost, or smoke around the engine to see where t is being sucked in under vac? I guess either way will do, but figured I'll ask anyway
Old 09-16-2007, 10:44 PM
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It shouldn't matter. At times you will be under vaccum. Other times you will be under boost. There will be a pressure differential either way.
Old 09-17-2007, 12:43 AM
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You need an intake leak tester.

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index...703afedae15e48
Old 09-27-2007, 09:53 AM
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An easy way that I used to test for vacuum leaks (which it sounds like you may have as well) on my supercharged firebird was to use starting fluid, available at any auto parts store.

Just let your car idle, and spray the starting fluid on the vacuum hose fittings, one by one. If the engine surges, you just found where it leaks.

This test probably works on intake hoses as well, but there is alot less vacuum in the intake piping during idle, so I'm not really all that sure. The engine surge may be alot less noticeable, or maybe you just have to use more fluid.

Just be careful- the stuff is highly flammable (its ether), so watch out. Its cool though since it evaporates almost instantly, so no worry about residues or long-term flammability.

Is your boost/vacuum gauge reading the same amount of vacuum at idle?
Old 09-27-2007, 10:07 AM
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Good suggestion. Thanks!
Could it ignite if dropped on the hot engine? Like metal portion of the manifold or something?

I need to find time to fix this. Just been too damn busy lately. My X-Wife and I had finally decided to split (After 2 years of being divorced and still living under the same roof), so I'll be shipping my *** out of the house into an apartment (with a garage!) over the next weekend and then settling in with the new place...
Sigh... The things we have to go through.
Old 09-27-2007, 10:13 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Riles
An easy way that I used to test for vacuum leaks (which it sounds like you may have as well) on my supercharged firebird was to use starting fluid, available at any auto parts store.
I used carb cleaner to check for leaks on my turbo RX-7s...if the car idle stumbled - BINGO!!!!

Actually got turned onto that by Dave from KDR years ago.
Old 09-27-2007, 10:20 AM
  #44  
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I don't know If I'll be able to distinguish between a stumble in the idles due to running too lean with Int-X, and the carb leaner induced stumble. Or will it really stumble to the point of near stalling?
Old 09-27-2007, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by rotorocks
I don't know If I'll be able to distinguish between a stumble in the idles due to running too lean with Int-X, and the carb leaner induced stumble. Or will it really stumble to the point of near stalling?
In my experience, it is very noticeable...that written, since I don't really know your idle condition hard to say...though I think it better than a highly flammable starter fluid in any case for simple safety concerns. And if you can't distinguish, just use the carb cleaner liberally.
Old 09-27-2007, 10:34 AM
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No idle condition is not bad, but it will jump a little at some times.
Besides I can always enrich the mixture, before performing the test. At 11:1AF the idles are super smooth :/ but stinky to a level of unbearable
Old 09-27-2007, 12:49 PM
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Yeah, carb cleaner should be less flammable, although its probably still not something you'd want on your headers.

I'm not sure how the rotary would respond, but when I found that vacuum leak in my old car, the starter fluid would cause the engine to surge quite noticeably, as in a few hundred rpms. Lol, with as loud as your car is, you should have no trouble hearing the difference!

I love your turbo setup, BTW!
Old 09-27-2007, 12:56 PM
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I actually hand build a little muffler a couple of months ago, which took A LOT of the noise out. Now the car sounds just a little louder than MasdaSpeed exhaust.
Old 09-27-2007, 01:45 PM
  #49  
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The more I think about the design of this setup the more I like it. You have basically stock exhaust if you wish and could optimize it with a header etc. or keep it stock for lower cost and less hassle. You have nice long pipes in and out of the turbo that will give you fully developed laminar flow into your turbo for max turbine efficiency and and laminar flow into your intake manifold from the compressor for minimum pressure losses. Also the exhaust heat is not kept in the engine compartment and there should be some cooling effect from the intake piping run under the car.

I guess the only downside is pumping losses due to the length of pipe that the compressed charge has to travel. I suppose that can be counteracted by your turbo sizing as Rotarygod is advising.
Old 09-27-2007, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rotorocks
Obviously a different turbo. t04b instead of t3/to4e
External waistgate.
So are you going to a straight T4 both turbine and compressor?

And are you going external vs. internal gate due to boost creep issues in the past with your setup?


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