We are currently starting to work on gauge installation and have come accross a few more questions. We are trying to install Autometer Sport Comp Boost, Wideband A/F and Water temp gauges.

1) What is easiest way to install a wideband A/F gauge?
2) Can it be connected to the stock O2 sensor port?
3) If so will it throw a CEL?
4) Where did people drill through on the firewall for the gauges?

 

1-2-3) Weld your own O2 bung for the AFR gauge; in FRONT of the Cat. Cost $30 or less to get done at an exhaust shop. You need to leave the OEM one's in place.

4) I went through the passenger side behind the washer reservior.

BTW - Be sure to wire to a constant power source; one that does not turn off when the car turns on. The boost gauge needs to calibrate; and if it calibrates off of the running engine it will always read high.

 

Thanks. We were hoping that there was an adapter that would allow us to tap inot the existing sensor.

 

Not really; but it is cheap and easy to weld in your own.

I took my cat off (5-6 bolts) and walked into an exhaust shop - 25 minutes later walked out with my O2 bung welded on; cost $30. I would have done it myself; but our tools are still on a boat from the Middle East.

 

Is it possible to remove the stock sensor from in front of the cat, then splice the stock wires from the ecu into the bosch sensor and still have everything work properly??

 

No. You can't do that, as an O2 Sensor needs its own controller circuitry. You don't need to install another sensor though. The data is freely available from the cars on-board diagnostics. Just get a scan tool (you know what I mean ) to watch in real time, or a data logger like EFIDudes to use for analysis.

Cheers,
Hymee.

 

Did you drill the hole in the tube before the CAT?

 

Yes, BEFORE is key...

 

What if you have a straight pipe? Where would be the best place to weld the bung?

 

mine is up front close to the down pipe...

 

From Autometer:
"The oxygen sensor should be installed as close to the cylinder head as is reasonably
possible so that the sensor reaches operating temperature quickly. If
long tube headers are used, the oxygen sensor should be installed in
the collector. If cast iron manifold(s) or shorty headers are used, install
the sensor in the pipe just below the manifold. In multi-bank applications
mounting in the left or right side is acceptable. Turbocharged applications
should have sensor installed 4-5" after turbo on the down pipe."

 

The problem with installing an O2 sensor close to the exhaust ports is that it may burn up.

 

For us; I think where the cat/midpipe meets the downpipe is the best spot.

My pyrometer is on the downpipe and it gets 1200F pretty quick.

 

I put mine on the catpipe between the converter and the flange to the downpipe.

 

I was wondering if anyone had any pictures of the Vacuum chamber installation. We are having some trouble figuring out is needed per the directions. I think the part in the installation instructions isn't valid anymore per Pettit. So if anybody has any insight on installing it it would be much appreciated. Also had a question on the oil used in the Supercharger. Does it use normal 20W50 oil or does it need Compressor oil? If so where can you get compressor oil? I looked at a couple of Auto part stores and couldn't find any.

 

hey Dog
im using Mobile 1 per cam...i think its 20-50...i'll have to check...

i can post up some pics if that helps...just get me in the right area...

 

thats where mine is ...

 

I have my O2 sensor installed in the catback pipe. The TurboXS exhaust has an O2 Bung already welded in that pipe. I ran the controller wires up through the gas tank on the passenger side and under the center console to the ashtray area.

 

thats pretty far back....are you running a cat?
if so, would that change your readings?

 

No Cat. The wideband doesn't have anything to do with my tuning so it really just runs the AFR gauge.

 

i understand that....
my question is....do you get different readings if its in the back...as opposed to up front..
ie would your AFRs be different...if so, would the front readings be more exact....

 

I'm not sure because this is the first time my wideband has been installed in this location. However, the readings should not be any different. There might be a slight lag time involved but thats about it.

 

Regular Castrol 20W50 for the first 500 miles (break-in) then change to Royal Purple 50W and enjoy it. It will cut down the SC clattering and winding sound significantly after you change it to Royal Purple strait 50W engine oil.

Also, send me a PM with your email and I will email you back enough pictures of my SC to fill your computer hard drive.

 

I just received four MSDs 8247 LS2 Multi-Spark Blaster Coils that I purchased on eBay for $245. So far, I plugged one MSD coil to the leading (L1) side by individually connecting each wire to the four MSD coil pins.

The car stated right up and with an inductive timing light I check the spark output. I revved the engine up to 8k rpm several times while checking the timing light for spark output and to make sure that the spark duration/ratio was constant (sorry but I don’t have an oscilloscope).

So far no issues whatsoever.

I'm waiting for four D581 plug connectors to arrive so I can fabricate plugs for MSDs and splice into the OEM coil wires. Once installed I’ll take the car for a spin and will update the thread with pictures. I hope to have everything installed by the end of the week pending arrival of the D581 plug connectors.

I'm hoping to have the D581 connectors by the end of the week because I'm doing an AutoX next Sunday and would like to put the coils to the test. Also, the AutoX event is an hour from my place and I will be driving at interstate speed 70+ for at least 45 minutes each way. I think that will definitely test and prove that the coils work...or not.

 

does anyone know of anything i might be able to add to the blower oil to make it more visible?

Juan - is it safe to assume that royal purple has a color to it? if so, i will change to that next time im due..