its a really good solid kit,
The efi dude has the software in it, that is being used etc for data collection and for Cam's tunes.
The cobb will require that someone else to tune it.

 

I see we are big endian vs little endian...

 

The two blue relay "holes" light up with a circuit light when testing there, but the multimeter doesn't show anything but a "-" symbol next to zeroes when touching the same "holes".

I put 2 new blue relays in (one for fuel pump and the other for circuit) and the pump still will not prime. I am testing by running a silicon hose from the fuel line ( the upper one that the red clip attaches to) into a small gas can. No fuel or smell whatsoever when attemting to crank. I don't know if i'm supposed to be able to hear the pump when it is trying to prime or run. I have the rear seat cushion and metal cover off and i don't hear anything. The interior lights and accessories all work.

Ideas??

 

The circuit light says it's good.
Was the multimeter set for 20 volts?
Could you have reverse polarity on the multimeter leads?

Check for power at the fuel pump resistor leads, the finned silver thing under the air pump mount.

Try a hot lead (and ground) to the pump you removed; does it work?

The key is on?

 

MM said the Cobb comes with software, but you need to know the values to input.
The bad part is, you need to know ALL the values, you will need to know how to create a tune from scratch.

 

Hey guys, anybody here would have a recent video of his supercharged RX-8 ?^I mean an onboard version, where we can give a good look about performance.


We got a lack of it, as most FI RX-8...


Really need to give a better look on it, ty. ^^

 

Try this teaser video
http://www.pettitracing.com/images/w...Teaser_RPM.wmv

 

ok on the pump---you have checked that you are getting power to the pump---right?.
At the harness where it plugs to the pump---right?
Ok after that and its still not pumping into the gas can--- then get out the manual and do the fuel pump by pass check in which you "bypass" all the circuitry and it turns the pump on regardless. Its a jumper wire thing. Turning the key to "on" with the fuel line detached wont work.
You do have fuel in the tank---correct?
You saw it---right? Dont thrust the gauge.
OD

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jq_32HCfPM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMUA1XYiLrQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DMthgPrmZM

 

Thx a lot sir, i didn't know your channel on youtube.

My car has now 71000 KM, something like 50000 miles... I'm wondering if my Renesis could support it, or should i go for a rebuild before if i decide one day to SC it ? :??:

 

Use 9 to 1 Low compression rotors!!!

 

Supercharged car in autoX

 

mu new bumper should arrive to miami this week, to guadeloupe next week...

I may be able to drive soon :D
get wait anymore...

I decided to change the air filter for something closed and still in the engine bay... I ordered a BMC air filter... pict + video of everything when my car is drivable

 

No juice to the pump or anywhere else. Guess I need to recharge the battery AGAIN. Are you saying I cannot attempt the pump "bypass" unless I have the fuel line reconnected? If so, where is the best place to purchase a new one. I remember reading that its not a good idea to reuse the old one once it has been disconnected.

 

I installed mine with 76000miles on the original engine, engine was in great shape all the way through. It died at 97000 miles due to a small vac leak that developed which fed the solenoid that actuates the port valves, if I would have caught that leak earlier I believe my original engine would still be here,,,,

I have since put just over 2K miles on my new engine, with the SC from the beginning.

 

Mork
here it is
The fuel line you are using can be used multiple times. The one that connects the 2 banks of fuel injectors is the one you dont use but once--ask me how i know

You have to install a jumper as the manual says before the pump will run with the gas line unattached. You dont have to reattach the fuel line for this --just leave it in the jug as you have.
you are bypassing a safety system of sorts when you do this.
I have ran into this same thing--trying to figure out why the pump wasnt running in trying to test it.
Install the jumper as the manual shows, have your gas line in a bucket, then turn the ignition switch on. The pump will then run continually.
Good luck--i will bet it is not the electrical circuit giving you problems---thats very rare.
OD

 

Finally finished installing my water/meth kit. I wish it was warmer out to test it in.

 

You could have tested it at the Richmond meet yesterday! LOLZ

 

Still wasn't done. I finished it last night.

 

Looks very nice. I would recommend using a check valve instead of the solenoid. They do go bad from time to time and usually at the wrong time like it happened to me. The result was detonation and a couple of skipped heartbeats. Never had a problem since I got rid of the solenoid over two years ago and besides it is simpler.

 

clean set up.
very clean.
OD

 

Denny,

I’m going to run my first road course Sunday. It is a very short course here in Central Florida. Yes, I know about the ones you participate but I’m baby stepping on this one before I try to run with the big boys. The road course layout is in the attached picture and youtube videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18WsPm47D7M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0QG7...rom=PL&index=3

You pretty much know my car setup and I’m rolling on Toyo Proxes R1R (very sticky DOT tires). No, I don’t have the time or money to buy or change tires/setups at the moment cuz I’m in the process of buying/selling a house and I just want to run my car this Sunday to blowup some steam.

Anyway, since you are a marine and always a marine, could you please reply with some pointers in kiss (keep it simple stupid) format. For example tire pressure, rear end-links adjustment and SC RX8 driving technique.

This is a non-timed event. No transponders will be issued. It will be a clear day with temps in the 60, 3 to 5 laps per session and starting at 9am.

Also, I don’t give a **** about wining as to most of the things I do in life. I just want to enjoy running my car fast without worrying about the Po-Po issuing a speeding ticket.

Thanks,
Juan

 

tire pressures - several PSI lower than on the street - checked cold. If you are getting rollever onto the sidewall, add PSI, if you are feeling the tires get greasy drop the psi.

be smooth on the controls. The smoother your input the better the car will respond.

wouldn't worry to much about chassis tuning (via endlinks, shock adjustments, camber/caster changes, ride height, etc) if this is your first event. Just go out and drive and have fun.

Bleed your breaks before you go. A flush would be best if it hasn't been completely flushed and changed lately but do at least bleed them if you don't have time for a full flush.

Before you hit the track for the first time check, double check and check again your lugs are properly torqued.

Have fun, keep the shinny side up.

 

well ---finally!!!
1st thing --that track scares the hell out of me.
no run off room, poles and hard walls close by. Rough guess is top speeds will be in the 90-100mph range?
Looks like you will be using 2nd-3nd mostly? Brakes have little cooling time here and your engine is going to build a lot of heat as you dont have any real straight to build speed for any length of time---so watch your temps.
Be careful--learn smooth--its not a drag race so treat the tranny good.

1st-- change your oil and filter before going--we get a lot of fuel dilution so change it when you get back too!
2- if you havent changed your tranny/diff in the past year --do it
track builds a lot of heat--especially this type of track. Yes i realize the ambient will be low
3- run the w/m--duhhh right
4- 1oz of premix per gallon--no arguments!
5- a step colder plugs if you havent already
6- get hi temp brake fluid like Ate blue and bleed flush out the brakes.
remember DONT use the parking brakes when you come into the pitt after your session---the brakes are H-O-T and if you use the parking brakes it will ruin your day.
7 --the biggest suspension adjustment you need to do now is to leave it alone .
8- add 2 to 3 lbs of air to all four tires your 1st session. Immediatly check tire pressures when you come off --hot pressures for your tires should be around 41-42--adjust accordingly. check pressures before you go out --the sunny side of the car tires will be a LOT warmer and psi difference can be large.
I would rotate my tires on this track after 3 sessions. You are going to eat some outside left front thread blocks up here--notice how it is mostly right handed turns. And with that in mind get a passenger in the car with you --since you are not corner balanced for this track you will be left turn bias--a passenger will help your right handed turning. get the biggest person you can find-truely does make a big difference
9 You should not have a problem with fuel starvation here but keep 1/2 tank in just in case.
Do the tight seat belt trick--helps hold you better to your seat!
10--remember the strength of this car is the chassis and braking. Brake late and hard--this actually helps the brakes run cooler--and you are running stock pads? The car trail brakes great and you can make up a lot of time on others by doing that.
foot should be either on the gas or the brake--no in betweens!
11- road racing is about smooth inputs--all of them, --wheel, gas, trans, brakes.
The more you turn the wheel the more speed you scrub off --so fine your lines early. follow a Miata if one is there.
I could talk forever.
You HAVE to come to Ga dude ----ASAP--priority's are priority's but come as soon as you can.
We need another addict.

Again---thats a dangerous track--be careful out there.
rotor on and yoooo haaaaaa!
OD

 

OD, I have to disagree with these 2 points.

You of all people should know that tracking the car will add more heat to the tires, which will raise the pressures more than street driving. Adding pressure to what you run on the street is going to make those pressures way to high - if they are set reasonably for the street. Always should be dropping pressure from the street to cold track pressure. Proper working temperatures/pressure will also vary between tire compounds and manufactures. To apply the blanket XYZ is the best hot/cold pressure to shoot for is over reaching, IMO.

More important that hitting a specific pressure hot is the working temperatures, and there will be a correlation between pressure and temperature. Without a pyrometer the best way to do this is to read the sidewall. How far are you rolling over the edge. Too much rollover, not enough pressure and visa versa. All performance tires have little arrows on the sidewall that indicate where the maximum proper rollover is at. And of course you want to attempt to have similar as possible hot temperatures/pressures.

The second point about trail braking I think is going a bit far for a guy going out on is FIRST TRACK DAY. You are right if we are talking about an experienced driver that wants to push the envelope. But Esp on a track that you yourself commented on the lack of runoff and the proximity of hard things to hit he should stay away from this technique this time out, IMO. Without prior experience he should be being VERY careful, not worrying about making up time on anyone. Just learn the line, and get used to being in that environment without bending up the car.