I'm not saying that. My problem may be realted to the ESS but I didn't have the time this weekend to get under the car. I plan to put a couple of washers under the ESS to try and eliminate any "noise" it may be seeing.

 

I've gotten 322 g/s at around 8000 rpms, so that sounds about right.

 

thanks guys--looking good--seems juan is a little leaner than us? He is in the 12's and we are at 11.1or so?
olddragger

 

Juan IS running quite a bit of nitromethane.
Snow reported that the Nitro-Boost (their emulsified nitromethane) will lean the mixture.

 

A couple of logs after header install. Spraying 50/50 water/meth and 33% RC Nitromethane.

 

I don't see how the Nitro-Booster can be different than the RC car fuel you are already using. Your system seems leaned out a little compared to the ones not running nitro... (Just like Snow said the Nitro-Booster acted)

I will be playing with mine on Wednesday, I hope to get my methanol nozzle moved and hope to get the dual nozzles going as well.
I am also planning on reinstalling my Mazsport ignition and checking if I still over heat with the methanol.

If it still tries to over heat, I will do my best to drown it in water/methanol/nitro.
//I have nozzles up to 275ml (100, 175, 275)
///I may also pick up a 60ml


All of us running methanol: you are changing the oil sooner; right?
I have heard methanol breaks down/thins out oil if it bypasses the seals and winds up in the oil.

 

All rotaries do. I change mine every 2000~3000 miles Royal Purple 5w-20. On my R100 Bridge Ported 13B every 1000 Castrol GTX 20w-50. The oil smells like gas by the time I change it at 1000 miles due to the fuel it consumes (@ 10~12 mpg)using a Holley 650 double pumper.

 

i change mine at approx 3 K or if it is dirty, before and after any track event, change filter every other time.
You still running 5/20? I was running rp 5w/30 for a good while and i wasnt impressed when i tore the engine down. The front bearing was down to the copper, all the other bearing were ok, it was carboned up pretty good. the housings were in terrible shape---wear wise--had checkerboard on the edge of one etc.
the oil pan was nice and clean and the insides of the rotorys were also
i went to castrol gtx 20w/50--no probs.
headers here today---soak the header wrap, install, getting shielding for the midpipe to protect the trans/floorboards and making heat dispensers for my o2 sensors.
install my reworked lower intake manifold--if i can do that without removing the engine. would you believe i painted the apv valves and the secondary valve? after i worked them a little. I secured the vdi plates and ported the entire upper ports--that turned out nice. i have polished the entire piece and now have brain damage from all that aluminum dust. wish i knew how to post a pic. its pretty

has anyone looked into an engine damper yet? i am getting pretty good engine movement on full throttle blips.
olddragger

 

Yep. BHR has an idea but there is a move to AZ coming in a few weeks so I'll resume the development once the team is fully operational.

 

I use the Valvoline Racing 20W-50.
Have you looked at chaining the engine down, or using threaded turn buckles?

 

Na rather have a pretty little damper up there--so i can open the hood and go ahhhhhhh!
took a laser temp reading today on the midpipe and a reading of 400F was obtained near the 1st resonator. i see shielding in the near future
it was 97 F here today and i had to spank a little old man in a porsche carrera on the way home---was he ever surprised!
olddragger

 

if you eamil them to paulmasoner1@gmail.com i'll post them up here for you and you can further discusss what you did, with visual aid!

 

I know different folks have posted their findings before, but i'm lazy and can't remember if we ever figured out the best placement for the water/meth nozzles and what sizes to use.

So that is my question since i'm about to purchase a water/meth kit. Where is the best placement and sizes for the nozzles??

 

Juan has seen some good results with a 100 cc nozzle after the throttle body and a 60 cc nozzle after the intercooler. That's how mine is set up; well it will be once the solenoid, the T, the L, and the L-Nozzle adapter get here

 

Bastage is that something we can do at the dyno day on my car?

 

munche, how do you have your nozzle/s set up?

 

Yeah, what he said.

I'm assuming you only have one nozzle right now, and it's in the MAF housing, correct?

If that's the case, it would probably take a few hours, since we have to remove the UIM and the TB to drill the holes, and wire in the solenoid/re-route the tubes.

 

i took my pre blower nozzle off and just put a 100 post intercooler and could not tell any difference. So for now i am running just one.
i did heat shield the thermostat area and heater/radiator hoses--seemed to help with heat soak issues a little. It was 97 here yesterday.
olddragger

 

Denny, does that mean you are still using the one nozzle pre-blower??

 

no one nozzle post intercooler only 100 size---so far no difference noticed.
olddragger

 

Bump up to the 315 ml/min jet.

 

Why?

 

'Cuz its the right amount of H2O/meth for a 300 HP car.
(Provided that the controller is progressive.)

 

One nozzel in the maf housing. I guess the dyno day is a bad Idea for that.

 

Juan had about that much flow originally and he lost horsepower. He's running 160ml/min and not losing hp, but significantly lowering charge temps.

Plus, 375ml/min is not what snow recommends:

Step 3 Nozzle Selection

Nozzle sizing is a function of horsepower, which approximates the
engine airflow, and boost, which approximates intake charge heat.
Recommended starting points:

250 - 350 RWHP: 175ml/min nozzle.
350 - 475 RWHP: 375ml/min nozzle
475 - 600 RWHP 625ml/min nozzle

Nice to see you're finally embracing the 300 hp number for a Pettit supercharged car.