Get and RX-8 and boost it.
Pretty simple.

 

Congrats J.Cab.

I got some pics to post in here in a few minutes.

BDC, What Jeff said....also, the more fabrication the better. I figure if we all keep working and fixings problems; then the rest of the club can learn about it... like the IAT sensor thing as a good example.

 

ooh, I missed this thread completely. I'll join in.

GaMEChld - Esmeril Turbo Kit
Additional: Esmeril Ignition Upgrade, TurboXS Exhaust, Interceptor-X

Don't have a build thread yet, will keep you posted. This was my first application of FI to any car, and pretty much the first act of automotive tinkering on any car.

 

Not 100% done yet.... but getting close.

 

Good looking cockpit modification! Even better looking flip-flops.

B

 

What kinds of problems here are you talking about, Sgt.?

B

 

Thanks for the compliment... wiring was um; interesting.

At this point I am pretty good - just need to work some tuning with the MAF - and I am still not quite 100% on my airflow readings.

But there is always room for improvement - like placing the IAT post turbo and intercooler for more accurate temp corrections. We still have the issues of the Greddy Turbo's and trying to find out how "mod-able" they may be using the stock parts instead of a turbo swap.

Then once we master the streetable 300hp car set-up; phase 2 is to of course turn it up and see what else breaks!

 

Wait a second -- what's this about the IAT and the GReddy turbo kit again?

 

Have to spin back a few pages on the thread.... bu the gist is that the IAT sensor is in the MAF on our cars.... so when you go FI; technically your IAT's are off - so Jeff and Brettus figured out a way to route it past the piping and right before the TB....

The Greddy is a seperate issue - look at the Efficiency Graph thread for details... but some RX& guys have started stepping up to the plate and seeing what they can do with the TD06.

 

RESPECT THE FLIP FLOPS IN MARCH!!!!

Or in an outdoor venue at night....

Frozen Drinks and Shorts...


Feel free to hate me...

 

Interesting. That's correct on what you say about the IAT's being off and therefore the semi-substantial air temp to fuel corrections will be skewed a bit and they were right to pursue an alternative. I wrestled with this on my old setup and on my current hot-air setup with respect to the alcohol nozzles' and IAT sensor location: mine was (and is) the problem of wanting to see correct IAT's (and more importantly provide the correct airtemp/fuel correction) with respect to both high IAT's while cruising (hot-air pipe, no intercooler, air temps about 45*F above ambient) as well as seeing accurate IAT's under heavy loads (up to and above 25psi). For you guys that are thinking about diving into aux injection stuff, especially anything that's designed or meant to reduce IAT's, this will be a big issue.

I would say ideally, without knowing more of the specific issue you guys have run into, that an IAT needs to be as close to the throttle as possible if not past it some. Definitely having it in the MAF up-front is not good.

Roger, Sgt. I'll take a peek at it. Good stuff!

B

 

Funny avatar Jeff... that should be an end to the people saying the pics were from misc websites. How did you convince them to hold up a sign for us? "So ladies, I'm part of this car club and uh... "

 

I never really thought of putting the IAT past the TB.... but hey why not?

Especially if you wanna spray right at the TB..... now for the alchy guys would the corrosive nature of the spray harm a normal IAT?

 

When I wrote my prior response, I thought about the FD3S -- the IAT sensor is in the upper intake manifold post throttle body.

I don't think alcohol will harm the sensor. Atleast it doesn't appear to have been a detriment on mine and I use *alot* of alcohol; probably more than anyone who does Aux Injection on rotary-powered cars at this point. Once I tear the motor, I'll find out more but I really don't think it's bad news for the sensor at all.

I also think that the IAT sensor needs to be placed well past the point of injection. It's something I learned during this last setup go-around. The nozzle placement and where I resultingly put it after-the-fact is what made the whole damn thing work right. Point is it appears there needs to be a given amount of distance to allow an amount of time for the injectant to flash (assuming the use of alcohol here) into a vapour to then yank heat out of the charge as it roars by. A before and after pair of pictures below show more of what I'm talking about. The IAT sensor is located in the 3" machined adaptor just prior to the throttle body. It's location has not changed on this setup. The alcohol nozzles' location(s) did. As far as how this relates to the Rx8 is admittedly a different story.

B

 

Must be nice to have that much space!!!!

Now here is an interesting question.....how much distance do you have to go for injection in order to assure you get max cooling.....

 

heya kane, can you add me me to your list pretty plz plz.

G-Gray Dude - Greddy TD06 on an 6 port Auto.

no build thread yet.

 

Heh, heh. If you guys get rid of all that plastic junk up front you'd have alot of space, too.

Don't know. I originally had both nozzles parked at the tail-end of the hot-air pipe, bout 3-4" in front of the IAT sensor, with both nozzles facing each other. It didn't seem to work right. IAT's climbed massively and the motor started rattle-canning at low boost (10-15psi). When I decided to move them, I didn't have any kind of calculation or anything like that I applied. I just cut the hot-air pipe in two and placed the nozzles way up stream; one about 4" from the blow-off valve and the other about 10" past that one, staggered.

B

 

Done

Let me chew on this and see if I can think of a way to use our flowmeter and some temp probes and try to come up with some "rules".

 

I have a brand new AEM meth system I'd be willing to let you have for cost, including shipping. I have had it for several months, never got around to installing it, and due to a big move I am making could use the dough.

In fact, I think I'll put it up for sale on this forum as soon as I get home.

-Yambo

 

Pics?

 

So Chickenwafer got officially dyno'ed.

I got my misfire issue solved thanks to CRH- I had the wrong terminals on my MSD plug wires. I crimped them down with my needle noses and no more misfire! Schweet.

I ran pretty conservative on the dyno since I don't have a final tune and I was running lean prior. Jeff tweaking the MAF scaling so I was running richer. Boost was only 9-9.8psi.

302-rwhp, 231 ft-lbs torque:



Also had some cut-out at higher rpm thanks to injecting too much water/alky mix. I dialed it down and it feel better. Tony (the guy at the shop/UMS Tuning) said I could have picked up a few more horses if that was dialed back.

All in all I'm pretty happy- conservative tune, low boost, and I'm in the 300-whp club! Next up, more boost, race gas. We'll see...

 

nice, congrats man

 

Not untill I get home. I am currently out of town.

-Yambo

 

Nice curve wafer. You definately have more power available. I have been waiting to see other dynos on this kit besides the one Jeff posted in the dyno comparo thread.(I am forgetfull and probably forgot if I saw others before). If I were turboed, that is the type of curve I would want to have

 

For all you GReddy users that need/will need to do fix#2....found this little beauty at atp turbo...no need to weld, or tap into your pipe and worry about screwing something up (like me )




clicky for link