I've been installing a used turbo kit and I now have a problem. The T that splits the oil pressure line and extender thing that looks kind of like this :

=||=

with the "=" being threaded.
With the oil sensor is missing in the kit. I tried NAPA, Autozone, Pep Boys, Kragen, no one has any fittings around my area, but one performance shop said they can convert it for $120. Does anyone know where I can get this T before I spend $120 on a stupid oil line?

 

Try lowes or home depot first......they may have a brass one. If not you may have to call summit or jegs.

 

You can buy an oil adaptor plate that fits between the filter and the motor and run the oil line off of there instead of using the T.

 

I went to home depot and the lady pointed me towards the air tools section, they only have inch units and I think the one I need is metric. The smallest they had was an eighth of an inch and it seemed too bit when i put it next to the one i have.

As for the sandwich plate idea, i don't know if the line will reach that far.

 

After looking on eBay, all the kits they have are 1/8th of an inch. Is this the size I need? Even though I thought its supposed to be metric.

 

The filter is just above where the T installs. Should be a shorter distance if running over the top of motor behind the intake manifold.

http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=11803

 

I bought a similar adapter plate on ebay for like $20 or less.
Fits perfectly and works great.

 

It is 1/8 NPT on one side and the Japanese equivalent on the other.
That said, they do have it in Home Depot - its in the plumbing section.

If you can't find one, I have an extra I can send you.

 

Thanks for all your help guys, but I need this in a hurry. If I can't find anything local ill look into the sandwich plates.
Meanwhile my search continues... and I can across a place near me that sells tons of 1/8th inch NPT fittings, can anyone confirm that this is what the T uses in the GReddy kit?

Thanks!

 

Cool, but what uses the japanese size the block or the oil line?

 

And if the line is short, get a piece of 1/4" copper line and a couple of fittings in the same section at the home depot, and just extend it.

Another (dirty but effective) way to extend the line is to cut the oil line you currently have in two, then pull the pieces onto that 1/4" copper extension from both ends, and secure them with clamps.
Just in case, use two clamps on each end, as the oil pressure may cause it to leak or god forbid forces it apart...

 

I helped a friend instal a used Greddy kit on his 8 some time ago. He was missing the same part. A quick trip to Advanced auto solved our problem. If you trust the guy at the counter you probably won't have much luck. Ask them if you can go into their drawers and dig around for yourself.

 

Even if the the thing is all NPT, you can pretty well force it since its brass.
If you have a tap, you can do it the right way.

Just bring the other pieces (the sender, the outlet barb and the inlet barb) with you to the hardware store.

 

Now that i got that fixed by forcing some NPT fittings on there (hopefully with no leaks), I go another problem. 2 actually.
The kit ships with a special plug for the oil pan that has an opening for the turbo to return oil to the pan. I did not receive such a piece and am now thinking i have to tap my oil pan to return the oil. I've heard you can just drill and JB weld it on. Is this true?
Second, the pipe that connects to the turbos compressor to receive air is missing the gasket, can i just use sealant on that?
Thanks, and don't buy a used kit.

 

Jeez. You are missing an awful lot. I hope you got a good deal on the kit.

No, you cannot just drill and J.B Weld. Well, I suppose you could, but you are asking for disaster.
First of all, J.B. Weld won't survive very long in that environment.
Second, the sump on the Renesis is shallow, so there are a lot of things to hit as you drill and that would be bad.
Third, what are you going to do with all of the steel shavings that go into the pan? I've heard of people doing this by pushing compressed air into the drain plug, but you will need a really good compressor that can flow a lot of air.
Fourth, were you counting on the J.B. Weld actually holding the bung in place? Don't. It will fail at the most inopportune time, dumping oil on everything hot under the hood, leaving a stinky blue cloud as you grenade the motor from oil starvation.
You can look HERE at pics on my custom installation thread. I put a drain line return in my pan. It requires taking the pan off.

 

Thanks, and no I didn't get a good deal on the kit. I'm gonna call the guy tomorrow. I called him yesterday asking if he misplaced the T that I was searching for, and he said its still on the car. Thanks for the help guys.
MM, that gasket sealant you used in your pan, do you think its ok to use on the non compressed part of the turbo.The only thing I'm worried about is it oozing out and tearing off eventually, flying into the engine.

 

You can probably get away with no sealant on that flange at all since its only a very mild vacuum.
Maybe just smear a very light film on the pipe.
Even if that made its way into the turbine, it would be a fine, soft mulch by the time it made it to the intercooler, where it would get stuck.

Thanks for making me worry about that stuff getting into my oil pickup, though!

 

While we're on the subject of the oil return line - Mine's still setup so that the turbo oil drain goes into the oil pan's drain. So when I change my oil I have to unscrew the turbo line ... It's not too bad, but it slows me down. Is there any reason why it would not be recommended to install a 3-way fitting at that point? That way I can leave the turbo always hooked up, and have a third point that I can drain from.

So instead of this:
http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx8/turbo/pan_1.jpg

Do something like:
http://www.brasparts.com/media/brass12.jpg

 

Shouldnt be a problem.

 

so why are people drilling into the oil pan?

 

Because not everything has yet been invented of yet.
Let's just say no one thought about it that way.
Get the credit and call this thing "Mysql101 style Oil Bung"

 

hehe. Now to the hard question: Any idea what the thread is on the oil pan? I went to home depot and none of their fittings were metric, nothing fit

 

I think its a M14 1.5 pitch.

 

T = One more way to leak.

I tapped the pan because I wanted a more direct return route.
My return line, AN-10 fittings and all, is 7" from turbo to pan.

M14 1.5 it is.