bart,
spikes are spikes, you will not see them on an anologe gauge...

did you not read the stuff i sent you.. :rollingla

doing a good job...

beers :beer:

Buy my gauge setup. pic here. .. gauges are boost, oil press, water temp, and AFR.

Also, the answer to your intercooler piping question... you do have to take the sway bar off to get the pipe through there. Sway bar endlinks are easy to strip , so be careful and make sure to hold the allen head bolt while loosening with a wrench.

I didn't have to take myne off and managed without too much difficulty.

Yeah, It's lots of fun and I'll miss it but I really need a bigger car.
I've got mine dialed in at 12psi using the Interceptor (low-mid 11 AFR's). I'll make a short clip of it just to show how good it's running before I take it apart.

Props to Scott's Interceptor which helped lots and I'm sure his turbo upgrade will be even more impressive.

I do remember trying to wiggle the driver side piping through without taking the sway bar off and it wouldn't fit. It slid in easier with the sway bar off. Plus the instructions say to remove it.

I did mine without removing the swaybar.

Awesome, you give me hope :]

I have a slight problem with the car turning off while I drive, I have no boost gauge setup to check the psi but the car pulls like a mad man so it could be overboost. I ran a hose from the acuator/wastegate to the intercooler tubing that I drilled a hole in with the 1/8 NBT fitting on it. Does anyone know what the problem is?

car cut off when, at idle... or while driving....

did you read the homework i gave you....

beers :beer:

Sorry I didn't mention that, it turns off while driving w/ no cel.

If you mean the 3 fixes, than yes I read it. We did fix #2 which what I explained. Could it be possible that that is causing the car to shut off?

wow,

thats a big one... and it restarts... if so it is likely an elec connection...

you might have to tell more, but did you do the mods i linked to you, if not you are going to have issuses with the r flash...

beers :beer:

Can you link me again? To be honost I've been at the shop since Friday 3pm till 11pm, than from 3pm again to 11pm, and today from 8am to 11pm .. I'm out of it. How do I know which flash I have?

pm me,,,

am i the asshole now??? :)

beers :beer:

No you're actually a huge fucking help :]

Anyone else have anything to recommend?

Okay so basically I need a hose running from the wastegate to where? I'm so tired I don't even remember which pipe we drilled the hole in.. I'm buying the Interceptor when Scott comes back from Cali, I don't have the patience to deal with this emanage bull shit. Greddy is a god damn joke, regardless of the half assed instructions.. I'm pretty dissapointed.

Can someone manage to please explain to me where I need the hoses to run. I have both of my intake manifold plugs nippled and a hose running from the wastegate to the intercooler piping, not the turbo outlet pipe. Is it possible that is what is causing my car to shut off?

http://www.bartmatusiak.com/photos/g...o/DSC03595.jpg

The pressure sensor is connected under the throttle body, is this correct? Sorry if I'm being a bugger, I've been searching and reading but nothing has been making sense especially considering I don't have the car here to check anything. I start working on it in 5 hours and am trying to get as much information as possible.

Does this hose go directly to the wastegate?

http://bartmatusiak.com/photos/rando...gatesignal.jpg (Tims setup)

hey Bart have a look at the diagram. I hope It helps out

The nipple has to be on the turbo outlet. See pic below

Really the nipple can be placed anywhere after the turbo. On that elbow is probably the best place though. Regardless of where you put it, it won't make your car stall.

Provide a better description. When does your car stall? Is it right after a hard run or while in vacuum and just cruising? Does it seem to be at a specific rpm/throttle position that makes it happen?

Okay here is what happens (I'll actually make a video tonight)..

It stalls when after I accelerate, and than put it into nuetral.. the rpms kind of go up and down from about 1.5k to 1k to 0k (something like that) and than it just turns off.

Your BOV is too loose. Tightening it up will decrease the frequency of occurance, but not eliminate it. To eliminate it go to a recirculating BOV ro get the Intx.

I don't have a BOV, but now have a most likely flooded engine. I took the car into the shop to tighten the oil pressure hose and install a boost gauge and what not.. I tanked up full (93 octane) and turned the car off in about 1 minute of doing so. The car was not fully warmed up. It now won't turn over at all. When cranking the engine you can smell the fuel and the engine bay begins to smoke a tiny bit. Is this normal on a flooded engine???

This engine was flooded to the max, I don't think it could have been any worse. Here's what I did to get it to run. The battery was dead so I had my friend Adrian (use to be known as Xdrian on this board, he had a 2004 lightning yellow but just bought a Subaru WRX) come down and try to jump start my car, it just wouldn't turn over. We than took out both the leading plugs, and cranked it to get some of the fuel out.. put the plugs back in, nothing. I than ran to the nearest store and grabbed a bottle of 5w30 and some brake cleaner since they didn't have any carb cleaner. We got all 4 plugs out, cleaned them and started cranking to get the fuel out of all 4 holes. Cleaned the plugs, put them back in and it started up after a few tries. Had to experience the infamous white smoke for about a few minutes and I took the sucker right home. I was pushing 5.2-5.5 psi the entire time but stalled out everytime I let the car into nuetral. If I let the engine slow down in gear, and let it reach 1k it would idle but if I put it in nuetral from a roll it stalls. Perhaps I'm in need of a blow off valve? Probably. Anyways, I'm taking the car to a local performance shop (1320 in Linden, NJ). I was quoted $150 for a new oil feed line including labor, and $40 for a complete inspection including all vacuum lines etc. Thanks for all your help guys, I'll report in with videos and such when I get the car completely tuned up.

bart,
stallling at idle is most likely a vaccum leak...

beers :beer: