Just bought the GR kit..
05-11-2006, 11:16 PM
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Just bought the GR kit..
Hey guys,
I was so close to purchasing the EVO MR but after taking the test drive and working out my payments, I decided to keep the RX-8 and add some power. I just bought the kit, paid just a little over 3k. My first questions are, what do I need to purchase in addition, and how hard was the installation? Thanks!
I was so close to purchasing the EVO MR but after taking the test drive and working out my payments, I decided to keep the RX-8 and add some power. I just bought the kit, paid just a little over 3k. My first questions are, what do I need to purchase in addition, and how hard was the installation? Thanks!
05-12-2006, 12:19 AM
#3
Oh boy. U can go w/ just a boost gauge to be ultra cheap, but for instance u'll probably want a boost controller, BOV, oil catch can, possibly a wideband... The list could go one for a while, but it all really just comes back to what u feel is needed first.
05-12-2006, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Bart!
how hard was the installation? !
05-12-2006, 06:25 AM
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Thanks Adrian :] How necessary is the Greddy oil pan? Which BOV do you recommend, and from where? I was looking at the Greddy Type S and some others.. .I want the one that sounds the best! Also, which boost controller do you guys recommend? Thanks everyone.
05-12-2006, 08:08 AM
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Oil pan is not necessary, just a nice to have.
BOV is just preferance. Just make sure to get a brand name, knockoffs tend to leak. Listen to a few sounds clips.
I like my Apexi AVC-R. It has gear based boost control and RPM based boost control. Two options I've found to really come in handy. But, if you want to go cheaper the HKS EVZ line is nice. Blitz makes a nice one too, but like all Blitz stuff it is way over priced.
Definitely get an O2 sensor. Innovate makes a great product.
BOV is just preferance. Just make sure to get a brand name, knockoffs tend to leak. Listen to a few sounds clips.
I like my Apexi AVC-R. It has gear based boost control and RPM based boost control. Two options I've found to really come in handy. But, if you want to go cheaper the HKS EVZ line is nice. Blitz makes a nice one too, but like all Blitz stuff it is way over priced.
Definitely get an O2 sensor. Innovate makes a great product.
05-12-2006, 10:24 AM
#8
Yea, the oil pan is not a must have, but if u don't get it u'll have to tap the oem pan. Not a big deal. And yes, I can attest to that, I have an innovate wideband and no problems so far. The AEM wideband is sposed to be the ish as well.
05-12-2006, 02:10 PM
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Thanks a lot for your help so far. Do you guys think my stage 1 clutch upgrade was enough? It has an overall 37% torque increase capacity, is this going to be enough?
Last edited by Bart!; 05-12-2006 at 02:24 PM.
05-12-2006, 03:38 PM
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definitely a BOV & wideband. i was running turbo with just BOV with everything else left stock for 6months or so without any problems.
most importantly, set aside $400 or so for a good tune & dyno so you can keep an eye on your progress.
i don't know which BOV to recommend. all i can say is that i have the RS and i like it alot. it's crisp & doesn't whistle. my friend has the HKS bov and it's pretty loud if you like to hear it.
installation looks easy & straightforward on paper but it was very challenging with just jackstands. with lift, anyone should be able to do it just fine.
i have stock clutch and it has yet slipped once, so your stage 1 should be more than enough. if you haven't installed it, get the flywheel upgrade too while you're at it.
most importantly, set aside $400 or so for a good tune & dyno so you can keep an eye on your progress.
i don't know which BOV to recommend. all i can say is that i have the RS and i like it alot. it's crisp & doesn't whistle. my friend has the HKS bov and it's pretty loud if you like to hear it.
installation looks easy & straightforward on paper but it was very challenging with just jackstands. with lift, anyone should be able to do it just fine.
i have stock clutch and it has yet slipped once, so your stage 1 should be more than enough. if you haven't installed it, get the flywheel upgrade too while you're at it.
05-12-2006, 05:20 PM
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I don't think it would be that much easier on a lift. Its just a matter of do you like to swear lying down or standing up?
Last edited by rkostolni; 05-12-2006 at 06:43 PM.
05-12-2006, 06:56 PM
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My friend owns a shop and a dyno about 5 miles away.. so I'm more than ready to get this bad boy on. We're going to start working Friday afternoon into Saturday.. how long did you take you guys to get everything done? Are the instructions nice and detailed, any images?
05-12-2006, 08:27 PM
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How does the HKS bov compared to the Greddy Type-S? Also, as far as the getting a boost gauge setup going.. has anyone had experience with putting the gauge where the entire ash tray is? I just took the ash tray out, looks like there is tons of room.. the only problem is that I have absolutely no clue how to get a line from there to the turbo it's self..
05-12-2006, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Bart!
How does the HKS bov compared to the Greddy Type-S? Also, as far as the getting a boost gauge setup going.. has anyone had experience with putting the gauge where the entire ash tray is? I just took the ash tray out, looks like there is tons of room.. the only problem is that I have absolutely no clue how to get a line from there to the turbo it's self..
I almost had a 2 gauge pod in that exact area, from R Magic. I had it on order for like 3-4 months from them through Mazdaparts, but R Magic jerked us around the whole time, and finally wanted me to pull the gauges & send them over to Japan so they could drill the holes in the pod. I thought that was ridiculous. Gauges were 60 mm, just drill a freakin' 60 mm hole. Needless to say both Mazdaparts.com (Matt) & I were not too happy about this, and they wound up pulling them off their site. If you can custom fab a gauge pod, don't see why you couldn't put it in that area. just have to take apart the dash area. Not that hard, there are some DIY on this board on how to do that for the people putting in the IPOD adapters. Then trail the lines to the engine, and you should be good to go. Another poster had this setup on here, and actually has some pictures of it.
05-12-2006, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Bart!
Can I see pictures of your boost gauge setup?
My setup is an A Pillar gauge pod from Team Prototype/CF Type. I wouldn't recommend it. Fit is OK, but if you can, go for the PTP Motorsports 3 Gauge Pod. I waited but they were having some problems at the time getting. Couldn't wait any longer, and got the A pillar setup.
.
05-12-2006, 10:53 PM
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Actually, the airbag is not located in the pillar, This was a "controversy" a while back. Some of the posters on the board pulled it apart & found the only thing behind the A pillar is a connection point for one of the strands of the side curtain airbag.
See post #5 in the thread
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...t=Side+Airbags
See post #5 in the thread
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...t=Side+Airbags
Last edited by Fanman; 05-12-2006 at 11:15 PM.
05-13-2006, 03:08 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by Bart!
Are the instructions nice and detailed, any images?
Other people were missing a intercooler pipe which would suck if your in the middle of installing it.
05-13-2006, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Bart!
Alright guys, so if I'm all about the sound.. what BOV do I buy? Is the Greddy Profec more reliable/better/recommended over the Apexi or HKS boost controllers?
Here is an explanation on why HKS is thought to be more reliable :
"The HKS Super Sequential Blow-Off Valve (SSQV) is a dual stage pull type relief valve. Unlike other blow off valves that are push type, the SSQV will not leak under high boost conditions nor under vacuum at idle. Being of a pull type valve structure, the SSQV can not physically leak under any level of boost because boost pressure also keeps the valve closed against its seat. The SSQV is actuated by pressure alterations only, not by the rate of pressure or vacuum in the line, which ensures a quick valve response and complete closure during idle. On typical blow-off valve designs, a large valve is utilized in order to accommodate high boost / high horsepower applications. However, these large valves tend to react slowly and require high activation pressure to open, therefore are not able to activate and prevent compressor surge at light-load conditions. On the other hand, smaller, fast reacting valves do not discharge the airflow capacity required for high horsepower applications and tend to creep open and leak as the boost pressure overpowers the spring on these push type valves. For maximum performance, the HKS SSQV incorporates both a small primary valve for ultra quick activation, along with a larger secondary valve for additional discharge capacity. The SSQV is engineered to initially open the small primary valve at light throttle and load conditions, then sequentially opens the secondary valve for additional relief capacity under high boost and load conditions."
For Boost Controllers, it depends on what you are looking for :
Greddy Profec Type S boost controller - Very basic, give you very simple control for your boost levels. If you are looking for basic settings, set & forget, then this is the unit for you. Get this vs. the B Spec II. It is easier to use, and my B Spec II wound up breaking.
HKS EVC boost controller - I found that it gives me more control, & is more precise than the Greddy unit I had. Also controls the overboosting problems I had with the Greddy (during cold, nightime weather). Top of the line company, good products. And they actually support their customers.
Apexi AVC-R - Good unit, I actually had this for the car originally, but is way overkill for the Greddy kit. Much more complex to setup than the other 2. If you have an experienced mechanic that knows his way around turbo cars & boost controllers then you are OK. My mechanic & I wound up having to buy a wiring diagram to figure some of the stuff out. Quality is high on the unit.