Just bought the GR kit..
 

Hey guys,
I was so close to purchasing the EVO MR but after taking the test drive and working out my payments, I decided to keep the RX-8 and add some power. I just bought the kit, paid just a little over 3k. My first questions are, what do I need to purchase in addition, and how hard was the installation? Thanks!

dam, i would have gone for the MR..hahaha

Oh boy. U can go w/ just a boost gauge to be ultra cheap, but for instance u'll probably want a boost controller, BOV, oil catch can, possibly a wideband... The list could go one for a while, but it all really just comes back to what u feel is needed first.

searchidy search search

Thanks Adrian :] How necessary is the Greddy oil pan? Which BOV do you recommend, and from where? I was looking at the Greddy Type S and some others.. .I want the one that sounds the best! Also, which boost controller do you guys recommend? Thanks everyone.

Oil pan is not necessary, just a nice to have.

BOV is just preferance. Just make sure to get a brand name, knockoffs tend to leak. Listen to a few sounds clips.

I like my Apexi AVC-R. It has gear based boost control and RPM based boost control. Two options I've found to really come in handy. But, if you want to go cheaper the HKS EVZ line is nice. Blitz makes a nice one too, but like all Blitz stuff it is way over priced.

Definitely get an O2 sensor. Innovate makes a great product.

Yea, the oil pan is not a must have, but if u don't get it u'll have to tap the oem pan. Not a big deal. And yes, I can attest to that, I have an innovate wideband and no problems so far. The AEM wideband is sposed to be the ish as well.

Thanks a lot for your help so far. Do you guys think my stage 1 clutch upgrade was enough? It has an overall 37% torque increase capacity, is this going to be enough?

Yea it's fine. Remember, the kit is made for a stock setup, so any kind of upgrade is sufficient.

definitely a BOV & wideband. i was running turbo with just BOV with everything else left stock for 6months or so without any problems.

most importantly, set aside $400 or so for a good tune & dyno so you can keep an eye on your progress.

i don't know which BOV to recommend. all i can say is that i have the RS and i like it alot. it's crisp & doesn't whistle. my friend has the HKS bov and it's pretty loud if you like to hear it.

installation looks easy & straightforward on paper but it was very challenging with just jackstands. with lift, anyone should be able to do it just fine.

i have stock clutch and it has yet slipped once, so your stage 1 should be more than enough. if you haven't installed it, get the flywheel upgrade too while you're at it.

I did my install on jack stands, and I didnt have any problems. Just take your time.
I would say that the hardest part was taking out the engine mount.

I don't think it would be that much easier on a lift. Its just a matter of do you like to swear lying down or standing up?

My friend owns a shop and a dyno about 5 miles away.. so I'm more than ready to get this bad boy on. We're going to start working Friday afternoon into Saturday.. how long did you take you guys to get everything done? Are the instructions nice and detailed, any images?

Does the Greddy Type S bov fit our car?

Yep. I had one on my car. Pulled it and put the HKS BOV on there now.

How does the HKS bov compared to the Greddy Type-S? Also, as far as the getting a boost gauge setup going.. has anyone had experience with putting the gauge where the entire ash tray is? I just took the ash tray out, looks like there is tons of room.. the only problem is that I have absolutely no clue how to get a line from there to the turbo it's self..

I like it better. More reliable, and the sound inside the car ins't as intrusive.

I almost had a 2 gauge pod in that exact area, from R Magic. I had it on order for like 3-4 months from them through Mazdaparts, but R Magic jerked us around the whole time, and finally wanted me to pull the gauges & send them over to Japan so they could drill the holes in the pod. I thought that was ridiculous. Gauges were 60 mm, just drill a freakin' 60 mm hole. Needless to say both Mazdaparts.com (Matt) & I were not too happy about this, and they wound up pulling them off their site. If you can custom fab a gauge pod, don't see why you couldn't put it in that area. just have to take apart the dash area. Not that hard, there are some DIY on this board on how to do that for the people putting in the IPOD adapters. Then trail the lines to the engine, and you should be good to go. Another poster had this setup on here, and actually has some pictures of it.

Can I see pictures of your boost gauge setup?

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...3/f375a635.jpg

My setup is an A Pillar gauge pod from Team Prototype/CF Type. I wouldn't recommend it. Fit is OK, but if you can, go for the PTP Motorsports 3 Gauge Pod. I waited but they were having some problems at the time getting. Couldn't wait any longer, and got the A pillar setup.

I thought about A pillar set up, but it would interfere w/ the airbags. So, I just went w/ the steering column. I felt that way punks on the road woudlnt know I had a turbo either ;).

Actually, the airbag is not located in the pillar, This was a "controversy" a while back. Some of the posters on the board pulled it apart & found the only thing behind the A pillar is a connection point for one of the strands of the side curtain airbag.

See post #5 in the thread

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...t=Side+Airbags

Alright guys, so if I'm all about the sound.. what BOV do I buy? Is the Greddy Profec more reliable/better/recommended over the Apexi or HKS boost controllers?

Yes, the instructions are detailed. Copy here. Also, double check you have ALL the parts. I was only missing a few bolts that were easily found at home depot.
Other people were missing a intercooler pipe which would suck if your in the middle of installing it.

For BOV's you have the Greddy Type S, or Type RS, for HKS you have the Super Sequential unit. None of the turbo kits kits are running a super high amount of boost, so you don't need anywhere close to Type R or racing type BOV's.

Here is an explanation on why HKS is thought to be more reliable :

"The HKS Super Sequential Blow-Off Valve (SSQV) is a dual stage pull type relief valve. Unlike other blow off valves that are push type, the SSQV will not leak under high boost conditions nor under vacuum at idle. Being of a pull type valve structure, the SSQV can not physically leak under any level of boost because boost pressure also keeps the valve closed against its seat. The SSQV is actuated by pressure alterations only, not by the rate of pressure or vacuum in the line, which ensures a quick valve response and complete closure during idle. On typical blow-off valve designs, a large valve is utilized in order to accommodate high boost / high horsepower applications. However, these large valves tend to react slowly and require high activation pressure to open, therefore are not able to activate and prevent compressor surge at light-load conditions. On the other hand, smaller, fast reacting valves do not discharge the airflow capacity required for high horsepower applications and tend to creep open and leak as the boost pressure overpowers the spring on these push type valves. For maximum performance, the HKS SSQV incorporates both a small primary valve for ultra quick activation, along with a larger secondary valve for additional discharge capacity. The SSQV is engineered to initially open the small primary valve at light throttle and load conditions, then sequentially opens the secondary valve for additional relief capacity under high boost and load conditions."

For Boost Controllers, it depends on what you are looking for :

Greddy Profec Type S boost controller - Very basic, give you very simple control for your boost levels. If you are looking for basic settings, set & forget, then this is the unit for you. Get this vs. the B Spec II. It is easier to use, and my B Spec II wound up breaking.

HKS EVC boost controller - I found that it gives me more control, & is more precise than the Greddy unit I had. Also controls the overboosting problems I had with the Greddy (during cold, nightime weather). Top of the line company, good products. And they actually support their customers.

Apexi AVC-R - Good unit, I actually had this for the car originally, but is way overkill for the Greddy kit. Much more complex to setup than the other 2. If you have an experienced mechanic that knows his way around turbo cars & boost controllers then you are OK. My mechanic & I wound up having to buy a wiring diagram to figure some of the stuff out. Quality is high on the unit.

Oh, that' s interesting about the airbags. O well, to late to go back now. And be careful if u buy a BOV on ebay. I thought I was buying the RS, since it was labeled as an RS w/ no pic, and I actually received a Type R in the mail!! Yea, it's a better BOV, but like Fanman said, nobody I've heard of is running enough boost to need one. Since it was available, we welded is on anyway. It's huge, but it shares the same flange as the type RS and S anyway if I ever get sick of it. So, moral of the story, be careful on Ebay!

Alright thanks for the tip. How long does the installation of the entire kit take? I'm going to do it my self, a local performance import shop wanted 1,600 for the installation.

Just picked up 4 qt's of Royal Purple 5W20 motor oil (+ Napa oil filter), 2 gallons of Prestone coolant and a 12 oz bottle of Redline Water Wetter (Super Coolant) mixture.

Does my coolant quanity sound right? Do I need to pick up any other additive?

The HKS SSQV BOV is by far the loudest BOV I've heard. Its a real neck-snapper!

I buy the RP oil by the case now. 4 qts is barely enough for a single change, and its not enough if you tilt the car like I do to get more out. Also, you need spares for topping-off between oil changes.

Where do you order your RP from? I picked mine up at a local shop..

Pep Boys. they run a special on it sometimes. Might also want to switch to 5W-30 after you put the turbo in.

So jealous........I WANT BOOST!!! Be interested to see how your install go's, good luck!

Is this real? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GREDD...ayphotohosting

That's hilarious. "Greddy Style" BOV. probably made out of cheap aluminum, will break in about 2 weeks.

na, they come broken stock. the txs ripoffs are pretty reliable, though.

Do you know if the Defi controller is required when using the Defi boost gauge? Is my warranty void if I had a turbo?

If you get the Defi link series gauge you will need the controller, but for the other Defi boost gauges you do not need the link controller.

Yes, it will void your warranty... but some of us are still able to get warranty service. You just have to find a mod friendly dealer in your area. Nonetheless, if you are having issues created by the turbo... no dealer is going to touch it under warranty.

You paid 20k+ for the car and another 3k for the turbo and your balking at 1600 for install? I don't get it. From your posts I've read here you seem somewhat inexperienced at this. I only hope for the sake of the car and new turbo kit that you re-think installing it yourself and have a qualified shop do it. Just my .02.

$1600 is pricey. Most people have gotten it installed for around $1000. but let a competent mechanic handle it. Don't just drop it off at Billy Bob's garage because they want to charge you less to install it. You will be able to find competent mechanics for $1000-$1600 (& bad ones that charge $1600 and still do a shit job).

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...17&postcount=7

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/air-flow-boost-check-valve-mazsport-89870/

i could go back, but will not...

you are way way over your head......

beers :beer:

I didn't ask for your opinion, nor do I care about it. I'm not doing the install alone.. seriously don't ever reply to my threads, you too swoope. I'm asking you nicely.

Anyways.

But I gave it anyway. If you don't like adverse opinions then I suggest you stay the hell off the internet forums. :p:

I think you will find this forum to be your greatest asset if you choose to mod your car. IMO, You really shouldn't be so fiesty. I don't believe either one of them intended any disrespect, they where just giving an opinion based on what they percieved your experience level to be. The Greddy kit is an invovled install. It is not easy, they are just trying to let you know this.

I personally say go for it though. You'll learn alot and as long as you have a good mechanical aptitude, with the help of this forum you should be able to figure it out. Worst case you damage the turbo or have to tow it to the shop to finish it.

hey bart,
no problem, i guess the several pm i have sent you in the past helping you out were forgotten....

good luck!!!

beers :beer:

I took your response the wrong way, I thought you were mocking me; I apoligize for that.

cool,

bart being humble, excellent :mdrmed:

if i can help pm me some more...

beers :beer:

Stay away from the Greddy Type S BOV. They leak over time. I have had two of them and always revert to the stock bov since the Greddy leaks. Some buddies of my have the Type RS and it seems to do pretty well. The HKS SSQV is a great BOV. It can be loud but if you recirculate it you won't notice it. I would get a wideband O2 if you have the money for it. Never hurts to keep tabs on that A/F more so with a wankel.

Really? Are you talking about the REAL Greddy Type S that costs $200.. or the $30 knock off on eBay? I was thinking of going HKS anyways.

I don't mean to hijack this thread. But with the wankel putting out alot of heat as it is, and adding a turbo just adds to the fire, will the stock radiator be enough to cool that beast? Would a set of SPAL fans be needed?

The REAL Greddy Type S. Get the HKS its a much better bypass valve.