ignition!
FULL BOOST!!!!!
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
I have gotten about 9-10k miles with the turbo on.
Well I dont know if I should be talking about this and no one should take my word as fact but from what I understood when I spoke to Scott at Mazsport, he is working on a direct replacement coil pack that features stronger coils, both heat resistant and current wise. He mentioned they should be considerably cheaper than buying an HKS Twin Power and that he's just working on the plugs/wires to make them a plug-n-play affair. They are supposed to be available over the next month or so. Then again, I dont work for Mazsport and therefore this is just speculation....
Chris...Esmeril
Well I dont know if I should be talking about this and no one should take my word as fact but from what I understood when I spoke to Scott at Mazsport, he is working on a direct replacement coil pack that features stronger coils, both heat resistant and current wise. He mentioned they should be considerably cheaper than buying an HKS Twin Power and that he's just working on the plugs/wires to make them a plug-n-play affair. They are supposed to be available over the next month or so. Then again, I dont work for Mazsport and therefore this is just speculation....
Chris...Esmeril
Wow this thread brings back bad memories.....exactly what I went thru.......exactly.
Reread the type 3 thread in Mazsport section, if I am not mistaken I had those same problems. I believe the root problem was that one of the coil packs was not grounded properly.
The mad scientist always has something up his sleeve and in the works for something better and more reliable.....
90% Carbon-100% Power
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,706
Likes: 0
From: Thessaloniki,GREECE
For more than 350 whp i believe you are ok with just hks ignition amplifier..I have this and i also got the okada coils so i ll have the top notch of ignition to get past the 400whp mark easily(offcourse with the other mods i m planning)
If you want to spend some money get hks+okada...I believe you will be more than satisfied
If you want to spend some money get hks+okada...I believe you will be more than satisfied
sas
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Cape Town, South Africa
Hello Chris
I've gon the same route. The ignition is just so much better. I sensed the difference from the emissions. The mixture seems to be burning much better. I am yet to check the levels though. The car is also more responsive.
I got the engine stripped btw. I think I will get away with reinforcing the front housing with extra dowels. Everything else looks fine.
Sas
I've gon the same route. The ignition is just so much better. I sensed the difference from the emissions. The mixture seems to be burning much better. I am yet to check the levels though. The car is also more responsive.
I got the engine stripped btw. I think I will get away with reinforcing the front housing with extra dowels. Everything else looks fine.
Sas
90% Carbon-100% Power
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,706
Likes: 0
From: Thessaloniki,GREECE
Not a problem Charles...I trust u mate...I am still waiting for the fd rotors job to be done and then shipped to me so i have patience-and i might have lost my licence so no worries...
Offcourse u should come here to deliver them to know me better...Greeeeeeeeeat chance 
That's pretty cool.
In 100° - 105°F ambient, my coils are at least 200°F.
Typically, everything that touches the keg is coolant temp (i.e. 220°F) except the alternator, which is usually at least 240°F.
In 100° - 105°F ambient, my coils are at least 200°F.
Typically, everything that touches the keg is coolant temp (i.e. 220°F) except the alternator, which is usually at least 240°F.
i can believe it without problem.
coils, wires, plugs and fuel pumps(since I track a good bit) are now classified as maintenance items for me.
damn air flow.
coming off a 20-25 min track session the engine bay is actually only slightly warm and most peripherals are only a little on the warmer than warm side. Not "hot". You can keep your hand on the coils. I will laser them in august at road atlanta.
Short of a vented hood --IMHO there is not much more to be done.
olddragger
coils, wires, plugs and fuel pumps(since I track a good bit) are now classified as maintenance items for me.
damn air flow.
coming off a 20-25 min track session the engine bay is actually only slightly warm and most peripherals are only a little on the warmer than warm side. Not "hot". You can keep your hand on the coils. I will laser them in august at road atlanta.
Short of a vented hood --IMHO there is not much more to be done.
olddragger
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 792
Likes: 2
Hey, does anybody know about X-Power ignition booster versus HKS DLI II ignition amplifier?
I'm hearing the X-Power may be just as good, but who knows more on this?
http://www.gruppe-s.com/Evo/evoeng.htm
Note- Nah, don't own an evo, but listed here, as you can see the x-power ignition booster in comparison to HKS ignition amplifier.
I'm hearing the X-Power may be just as good, but who knows more on this?
http://www.gruppe-s.com/Evo/evoeng.htm
Note- Nah, don't own an evo, but listed here, as you can see the x-power ignition booster in comparison to HKS ignition amplifier.
http://www.sp-power.com/catalog/prod...ducts_id=10469
I was intending to relocate mine down near the plugs with short plug wires, but after reading over the rules decided it wasn't legal for my class. There's a lot of open room on that side of the engine for airflow/cooling ...
Last edited by TeamRX8; Jul 9, 2007 at 02:59 PM.
Registered
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 300
Likes: 3
From: Eastern Ontario
More importantly (since the main "ground" for the coils are actually the spark plugs - hard to get a better ground than that), power the coils directly from a high current location on the loom instead of where they are now, which draws current through a single 18ga wire that has to travel through the PCM first.
-The main ground for the coils is not the spark plug. Spark plug ground has nothing to do with the path of current powering the coils.
-Coil current does not flow through the PCM.
Electricity only flows in one direction - from negative to positive.
In reality, the electrons flow from the negative side of the battery, through the engine block, across the gap, up the plug wire, through the coil windings (where the high voltage is exchanged for 12v at high current) and up a little 18ga wire through a tortured path to the battery positive.
In reality, the electrons flow from the negative side of the battery, through the engine block, across the gap, up the plug wire, through the coil windings (where the high voltage is exchanged for 12v at high current) and up a little 18ga wire through a tortured path to the battery positive.
-In the described series circuit, the secondary of the coil has a resistance of about 10,000 ohms. Then there is the resistance of the gap itself, and in some cases a few k of resistance is purposely included in the plug wire for such things as radio interference suppression. And finally there is this 'little 18ga wire through a tortured path'. Its resistance happens to be less than 0.05 ohm.
There are 4 paths for electricity through the coil:
1) The trigger input
2) The power supply
3) The ignitor ground
4) The plug wire tower
#1 comes through an 18ga wire directly from the PCM. #2 comes through an 18ga wire that is bundles to the other coil inputs down to an 18ga wire that is paired off to the PCM though the 15A engine fuse and balanced across ground by a "condenser" (a capacitor).
#3 is another 18ga wire bundled to the other coils similarly and #4 is obvious.
When the coil secondary current flows, which path do you think it takes?
Do you really think that the current across the ignitor is greater than the current across the plug?
Resistance is only a tiny part of the story, since the voltage is exchanged for current.
Registered
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 300
Likes: 3
From: Eastern Ontario
I need olddragger to help me with this. He appears to understand you.
Uh, yes. Have you? But I have to admit I don’t know all the details. I would like to know what you know. In the meantime I will respond based on how I believe the system works.
This is the signal wire from the PCM, and is the only connection to it. I believe it is a 5 volt, 3 ms pulse. It carries a very small current, a few ma at the most. End of story. It plays no part other than to turn the power transistor on and off.
Holy smokes! Why do you ask me if I looked at the wiring diagram when you obviously have not? There is NO power connection to the PCM that pertains to the operation of the coil!
What you are basically saying here is that power for the coil primaries comes from the battery through a fuse (you forgot the ignition switch). So what? And what is this about the condenser (thanks for the clarification by the way) balancing things. It’s there as a high frequency noise suppressor. If there is any concern over excessive resistance in the primary circuit, as olddragger seemed to have, then he could run four separate wires directly from the battery to the coil positve voltage inputs. The same goes for the primary coil grounds.
It probably takes the path you said (we should be a bit careful here), and let’s assume you are correct. The important thing here is that although both the primary and secondary return their respective currents to the battery negative, they do it through two different ground paths. The resistance of the primary circuit is only a couple of ohms, so if you introduce a couple of ohms through a bad connection, you could be dead in the water. The resistance on the secondary side is many thousands of ohms. It couldn’t give a tinker’s damn about even hundreds of ohms.
Yes. I believe you yourself said that low voltage high primary current is exchanged for low current, high secondary voltage. Look, the peak primary current is, say, 5 amps. The secondary coil resistance is, say, 10,000 ohms. If the secondary current were just equal to the primary current (let alone much greater), the voltage drop in the secondary coil resistance would be 50,000 volts, so there would never be anything available for the spark (by the way, I don't mean to be critical but current flows through things, voltage is developed across things)
Resistance is a big deal in the primary. It is a relatively insignificant issue in the secondary. But it was you who made such a fuss over that 18-gauge wire as it pertained to secondary current. I think you are going to drive me crazy
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This is the signal wire from the PCM, and is the only connection to it. I believe it is a 5 volt, 3 ms pulse. It carries a very small current, a few ma at the most. End of story. It plays no part other than to turn the power transistor on and off.
What you are basically saying here is that power for the coil primaries comes from the battery through a fuse (you forgot the ignition switch). So what? And what is this about the condenser (thanks for the clarification by the way) balancing things. It’s there as a high frequency noise suppressor. If there is any concern over excessive resistance in the primary circuit, as olddragger seemed to have, then he could run four separate wires directly from the battery to the coil positve voltage inputs. The same goes for the primary coil grounds.
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