I remember that as well. Quite an impressive piece of machinery.

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1304787070

Fun weekend. The axial flow supercharger was there as well. Interesting piece of vaporware.

wow that is fun to look at.. The final kit looks alot different now.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_G...A/IMG_0846.JPG


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_G...2/IMG_0854.JPG


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_G...A/IMG_0856.JPG


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_G...4/IMG_0847.JPG


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_G...Y/IMG_0848.JPG


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_G...Y/IMG_0850.JPG

Its a bit full of crud from the packing foam.

The SC is no longer fed oil from the Engine but now its self contained useing a much heavier Gear oil. I got ahold of SprintEx (the sc manufacture) and they recommended specifically Red Line 75w90NS Gear Oi. Still have no word on how to fill it, how full to fill it, how to check the oil level or how often it needs to be changed.

There was also a change in the how the vac lines were installed. There is also no pics of how the lines look installed. I have the emails detailing how to implement the changes but I really wish there was a revised instruction manual with these changes.

The only person that fits the accusation is yourself. You clearly have a non-objective viewpoint on the subject, to the point you are taking valid commentary personal where no such intent exists.

Ok I am trying to understand some things with this kit?
On the big photo the air intake to the supercharger is on the drivers side? I dont see that opening in your pics?

The gear case that drives the blower appears to be on the rear side of the sc once installed. I have never seen a sc that was mounted on its side like that and i dont understand how you will be able to get a proper amount of oil in the gear case without that same oil being to high over the gears themselves? Too much oil in this gear case will build a lot of heat and it will cause the oil to foam a great deal. That case also has to be vented.
I am not saying it will not work. I am sure Hymlee knows all this ( although feeding a sc gear nose with engine oil was a BIG mistake) so I am sure there is a way for this to work. I just dont know what it is.
Keep it coming dude--beatiful lit.
Cooling options?

O its still there, imagine the pic on the top without the intake tube and the silver intake plenum box being black. You can see it in the second pic I posted. I am also nervous about the intended SC oiling system changes and am looking forward to trying it out.

I am looking forward to Speedy33 chiming in with his findings. I am also a bit worried about using stock engine mounts. I do have a set of new updated part# OEM mounts waiting to go on.

just fill youre MM's with poly.
Its not hard to do.
OD

Why ? The stock mounts work just fine ?

Apparently, you don't get around quite as well as you think. Or, perhaps, your eyes are closed when you get there.

Not for long.

My stock mounts are not fine and in need of replacing. The SC will be adding more then just a bit of weight to the stock engine, putting extra stress on the mounts.

I do like your idea about the polly OD. I remembered reading a few articles in SCC about doing just that. Here is some pics and the corresponding commentary I pulled from Modified mag.

""
http://image.modified.com/f/17356966...ine_mounts.jpg

Thoroughly clean the engine mounts to be filled, then build a masking tape dam on one side. Fill with urethane from the bottom up and leave sitting out in the sun for a few days to fully cure.

http://image.modified.com/f/17356972...ine_mounts.jpg

When the tape is removed from the mounts, they are now solid. This controls engine motion very effectively, and, with the inherent smoothness of the K20A engine, the noise transmitted into the cabin isn't objectionable.

""
This is not a hard process and would not require much time as a preventative measure. A bit of work now can prevent alot of work later. The replacement stock mounts may very well last the lifetime of the car but I like to over think things. :P Any one else tried this before?

trouble with ours are they are break away mounts for safety sake. They have two chambers inside. There is a trick to it and I will be glad to pm about it. Done right there is very little to no nvh and the cars throttle response is noticebly improved.
OD

fix3d ...

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-filling-rx-8-engine-motor-mounts-urethane-212403/

ideally you would also address the differential mounts as well (and the rear subframe mounts for serious competition).

The entire drivetrain is suspended between the engine and differential mounts. Lots of movement and windup on the OE mounts, though you want some i.e. don't make the engine/diff mounts solid from Delrin etc. Just a stiffer rubber/urethane will suffice.



.

I could make a comment akin to what you keep saying about the whole catch can saga here but ....... no . I'll take it on board that this is an issue even if it hasn't been for me after 150,000 kms (50,000 with turbo) .

Bret watch some track vids that show the gearshift and you can see some of the movement that Team is speaking off.
OD

I never claimed otherwise, in fact the factory mounts are designed for comfort over performance. Since you have never tried it, nor do you compete heavily in precision driving events, you cannot provide any knowledgable comment about the flip side (I have modified motor mounts, aftermarket diff mount bushings, and custom solid UHMW rear subframe bushings). Hardly the same thing as the catch can comment, which is more about determining the true cause of any oil burping problem and correcting it properly. Nice try though ...

Hmm funny you bring this up. I always thought with added power it would be a good idea to alter the drive train mounting. I have picked up both the Beatrush center transmission brace and Beatrush Rear Dif brace. Thanks for the link on the DIY mount filling. If I do it this way I will be using 60 shore.

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...5&d=1278375687

I also order some "cool cover" for the piping in the engine bay. Its made by DEI.

https://www.designengineering.com/si...-coolcover.jpg

True - that's why I take what you are saying on board . I can comment on what my experience is for a street driven FI 8 with minimal track time , however .

Not the same but ... similar. Just because you have not experienced the issue does not mean it does not exist and neither does it necessarily mean that you know what the true cause is .

Everybody knows you drive like a scared little girl. Otherwise I'm content to let you believe that rather than argue further.

:kiss:/\

apparently Elvis made an appearance and there are two more SC kits available with some type of discount:

https://www.rx8club.com/australia-new-zealand-sale-wanted-149/hymee-enhanced-prices-57123/page3/

I saw that crazy stuff.... I hope someone else on this side of the pond pics one up.

I also hope he makes another run of his exhaust.

Hoss--I think you will be wise to get some more spacing between that mounting plate and the alternator? I cant tell you how hot that thing gets. It looks like that plate will heat soak and carry it to the sc unit and your piping?
You should be able to machine some more space there?

One thing I did was to remove the metal heater supply tube that runs across the firewall. To do this all you have to do is to turn the heater supply tube that exits the engine on the drivers side toward the bottom and then run a hose under the engine, mount it on the front cross member and run it up to the heater fitting on the passenger side. That gives you a lot more room on that back firewall and removes that heat source.