It's LIGHT! LOL

So far I like it; I think we may have the clutch engagement zone high; or driving in boots is just throwing me sometimes.... but overall it has a really nice feel.

 

Actually it's pretty close.... if not perfect - I think the problem is that the pressure is so light and the boots so heavy I can't "feel" the clutch... HAHA

 

Ok so I hit 600 miles and have 3-4 tunes into the car.

Observations:
- Porting on an FI Renny WORKS! This is now an official mod that I recommend.
- Motor Mounts are solid, I get a small amount of NVH, but well worth the snappy throttle and I can really feel it through my shifter - the whole power plant is noticeably more linear than the OEM mounts.
- Ceramic seals do fine past 1200 RPMS, below that there is a small loss of compression.
- Overall the car has more guts that it used to - even with the same turbo (and that was with the BC set-up; my non BC car is ballsy comparatively).
- The idle sounds have changed too.... the car sound a lot more pissed off, though still quiet it seems more menacing.
- Stage two clutch is awesome, light as hell but for the extra strength is has it is not any harder to drive than OEM.

 

Now if only I could finish paying for my own motor build up...
I want to see what my bridge port does... it should sound good if nothing else.

 

LOL - yeah a flywheel would be pretty insane IMO... I need to go to Skip Barber after all that just to learn to re-drive without burning out all the time! LOL

 

glad you like the motor mounts dude! that was my same impression also. I really like them for the snap and for downshifting during track time.
I dont think a lot of people realize what a stiffer mount can do for you. Errr that didnt sound right.....?
Anyway-- for example when i unhook my ppf my trans doesnt drop very much at all.
More shouldtry these.
I like that "pissed off " discription! LOL.
Time for some FD rotors?
OD

 

No FD rotors.... I want high compression; lowering static compression is the lazy man's way of doing things.

 

Have you done any tests that can demonstrate what you are saying ?

 

Boost threshold.... I don't have boost logs for both as I no longer log MAP.

However I can say, in 3rd gear with my EBC set up; I could hit boost threshold at 2600 RPM or so and Full 10 PSI by 3500 RPM. With my new motor and NO EBC I can boost in third gear by 2000 RPM's and can get to 10 PSI before 3000 RPM's.... again, that is with no boost controller.

 

wow - that 's a big difference !
That is better than mine does with a smaller turbo ..... I hit 10psi at just over 3000 .

I found this test usefull for boost response .........
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...6&postcount=41

 

Yeah, I if had some good MAF ones pre-new motor then I'd be able to do the same.... but alas I do not.

 

[EMBED]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOyI2ja8SNI[/EMBED]

 

Here's a chart showing relationships between compression ratios and boost levels, along with the corresponding "effective" compression ratio :

Boost
Static C.R 6psi 10psi 12psi
7:1 9.9 11.9 12.7

8:1 11.3 13.4 14.5

9:1 12.7 15.1 16.3


Now here's a chart showing approximate peak HP numbers

Boost
Static C.R Stock HP 6psi 10psi 12psi
7.1 200 257 295 314

9.1 214 275 315 335




Look at those differences! The 7:1 with 12psi and the 9:1 with 6psi have the same "effective" compression ratio, but look at the power difference! 50HP!
All this(lower static compression with increased boost) will increase boost threshold of course but MORE top end power will be produced. It will not be as "driveable" but on top end it will kick butt.
Just things to think about thats all.
Things are getting really interesting with the Renasis--new stuff around the bend.
Kane is living some right now---do like the vid!

 

The drivable power is the only true performance that matters. Peak horsepower is a dyno queen statistic.

The area under the curve is all that matters.

 

Like almost anything automotive, you have to trade... I would rather have a faster overall car than a top end power car, but that is just me. Others may feel the exact opposite.

 

oh --- i agree.
But for the 1st time to my knowledge---it has been done. 358 g/sec per oem scaled maf at 7.9 K. Hasnt been completly tuned yet. They will have to rescale the maf.
Dont mean to highjack your thread---just this is exciting news and opens another world for us--just as your build did. Wanted to give your thread the honor of announcing.
Your project broke ground for a different approach and this just adds to the possibilities!
rotor on dude!! more vids!!
OD

 

I'm not sure what you are trying to say here but the simple fact (as demonstrated by your numbers above) is that lower compression rotors make less power for the same boost . This may be a good thing in terms of the fact that most turbos are designed to run at higher boost than what we typically run . I don't see the 358g/s SC run as meaning a lot however . He made less boost with the same pulley on lower compression rotors so will therefore make less power than before ..............

 

i think it is more about volumne?
Anyway I dont want to discuss all this in Kanes thread--maybe we can start another one?
OD

 

My car scares the **** out of me..... that is all.

 

/\ better out than in LOL


sounds like someone turned up the boost ?

 

Honestly, that's got to be an awesome feeling. A car in the garage that is exactly what you want, and you love driving, but still demands some reverence.

 

need more suspension/grip?
Lets get it on track dude!!
1st and 2nd is useless isnt it? those MM doesnt help there
Careful in the curves with 3nd also!!
what is the 50mph-100mph time?
Whole different car.... hehehehe
Put egg on top of the throttle pedel
OD

 

Drive with a helmet on for a few days....

 

Beh..

I'm dyin' for my FI fix..

Enjoy reading your thread Kane!

 

yeah...any idea when you get your kit...?