This is why you wont want to try anything over 10 psi on a stock block .... even with all your failsafes ............

 

This is also why I haven't tried over 6psi intentionally, and have backed off immediately when things went pear shaped.

Fail-safes are not meant for daily use, but such is R&D. At this point I've seen enough to get a permanent intake fabricated, and as soon as I see more top end I'm going to chose a more permanent turbo. Time to clean up the build and make it respectable.

Edit: for the record I didn't break it, it's a crack on the nipple and has probably been developing for a while. New assembly on order. No use in a temporary patch when I have another vehicle to drive to work.

I guess I should say fix one thing and find another broken.

Oh and I cleaned up and clear coated my headlights last night. Look almost new, still need to buff.

 

Have you heard of the Saab APC system?

 

Yeah that and Saab Tronic. For a little while I was trying to do in cylinder ion sensing, but unfortunately I don't have enough analog electronics know-how nor patience to make it work well. I got some cylinder pressure traces but the amount of noise was obscene.

Saab sure had the best technology for engine control. Unfortunately it was well ahead of its time.

 

it looks like some people have adapted it to run on other vehicles. it's almost stand alone. Just needs a few inputs. but the thing that got me intrested was the control system. It reads as if It just keeps pushing boost and pushing learning where it knocks and backs off then.

 

I've seen some of that, but it probably won't do much good for us. The biggest limitation is the frequency of rotary knock vs most piston engines. I don't have the specifics off hand but from what I remember most piston engines detonate at a frequency of 5-6khz while ours is closer to 3khz. That means that any system designed for a piston engine will filter out some or most real knock depending on setup.

Also you would have to ensure the Saab tronic coil packs could handle firing as frequently as a rotary needs, and that they can handle a leading/trailing ignition setup.

Then you have to figure out how to rig it to play nice with either a stand alone or the stock ecu.

Seems like too much work, but I'd love to be proven wrong.

 

It was just intresting. I'm not really thinking about it. from what I read you just need a signal from the spark plug to count rpm. After that a second knock sensor or 2 and it just pulls boost when it's seeing knock. but that's cool. I was just doing some searching around and ran into it so I looked into it a bit.

 

I had this same problem a few months back.

Radioshack is doing clearance on the ones that are still open, go get the entire Forest Mimms library, then check bookstores for old electronics textbooks. My father had some that just looked like 70s textbooks, but literally have knowledge of ANALogic that I had no idea existed because it isn't on the internet period. Also getting on those SAAB modules and mapping the circuits via deconstruction might help. I plan on trying that one. For some reason I think mapping circuits for unknown boards is fun.

 

OMP is fixed. DW200 is in, and no more leaning out in the logs. But between the WI and the extra fuel I am seeing some misfire. Started gathering fresh data for WI rates, but may not have anything obvious until I sort out the misfire.

 

Pfffttt

Wait, I may regret this at some point

 

i did and don't regret a single moment at WOT

 

slash your 18 PSI was stock block?

 

^yes it was...
it was glorious!

 

I've had nothing but stock blocks at this point

Lol yomom

 

Slash likes to live life .....on the edge

 

I'm not saying I advise it but it sure is fun... Every time I turn up the boost just a little bit more and punch it to redline I get this adrenaline rush just waiting for the boom! Then when it doesn't happen I just drive around nice and slow for awhile with a big grin on my face

 

Car has been down for WG related issues and lack of time, but since my previous solutions have been underkill I'm going overkill this time. Wastegate lines are being replaced with braided stainless brake lines that go to push to connect fittings after they are out of the heat. Replacing the majority of turbo related vacuum tubing with push to connect. Currently removing the exhaust manifold to get a broken bolt drilled out... Also rewiring my ghetto WI/boost control harness to look closer to stock.

As for knock results, I'm still figuring out the proper amount of water injection. 25% Water to fuel is too much at the top end and is causing misfires. So when I get her back on the road I will play with lower percentages in boost and try to find the sweet spot.

Also, going over logs I'm seeing boost build <2500RPM and hit target <3k, having the wastegate dump during cruise was masking how low the turbo was really spooling. Need more data, but I think I need a bigger turbo. This isn't a surprise really considering the lack of information regarding this style setup, but I think I'm gonna pick up T72 china charger and see how I like it. Eventual I'll get a decent turbo, but I still want to get the size right first.

Working through several projects right now, but I hope to have the car back on the road in a week.

 

I have a whole grip of push to connect stuff to include ptfe line and high temp fittings for use around the WG. I just ended up chasing leaks all over the place and that money was terribly spent. I should have spent a bit extra and gone full soft braid AN hose and fittings. I just ended up using double walled silicone tube.

 

Harlan I've got mad respect for your micro controller and coding skills! But if you've got access to ethanol blends locally it could save you a ton of headache. I've been experimenting and even when things go into zones that I'd swear I should have lost a motor (at least on 92 pump gas) it just doesn't happen. That said, I'm a tinkerer myself and completely appreciate the desire to get a project to work

 

errrybody on that e85 train....chooochooooo

 

I've had my share of issues over 7 years driving a turbo but had zero problems with silicone hose

 

Because I live in a small town there is no E-85 for quite some distance, no race gas either.

So far I've tried knock off silicone tubing (cheap plastic crap), rubber hose, and plastic air line. Nothing lasted for very long. I'm sure I could get good quality silicone tubing and it would perform well, but at this point I'm just tired of pulling the WG because of melted/cracked/deformed vacuum tubing. Also I want a cleaner look under the hood.

I've had no leaks with plastic air line and the push to connect fittings for my water system, so I'm sure I can get it together without issue.

At this point I just want it done right so I don't have to redo. I'm at a very different point in my life compared to when I started this build, and time is currently more valuable than money.

I'm even considering switching to adaptronic for the ability to live tune, but I'm still looking for more info before I decide.

 

Yeah man! I shoulda listened to you sooner

 

I never had any issues with the push to connect and any sort of fluid as well. Its why I was excited to use them. I still have a whole bunch of it I could sell you. Most of it unused.

A good quality silicone hose should last you just fine as Brettus had mentioned. I switched to all metal barbs and use hose from this company. Stage 2 High Performance Silicone Hose Kit 50' - Hose Candy It is nice and thick and holds up well.

 

^ This.

The Hose Candy hose stuff is legit, I have never had an issue. It is so strong that it will break before it blows off a nipple. I even used it with some push lock AN fittings and it has held up great.