I was able to reuse my old one.

 

"Must have"... no, the oil catch can neither.

 

I just got my turbo kit in yesterday, am working on installing the intercooler, front bumper off, intercooler mounts in place but need to adjust them to clear the metal front bumper. Had to remove the stone shield (goes under the front of engine and connects to bottom of front bumper) also, I take it that after the intercooler pipes are ran, it is byebye to the stone shield forever, right? Is there any danger in not having this? Anybody go turbo and still keep the stone shield? Thanks!

Chris

 

uhm, yeah everybody with the greddy kit still has the stone shield.
Did you get the installation instructions? It shows where you have to cut the stone shield for the piping to clear.
Here's my install help thread.
Go through it before putting it in.

 

What fuel mapping has to be done in order that i can safely remove my cats with the turbo kit installed? what other suggestions?

 

 

3 -- boost controller, greddy oil pan, better fuel/spark management, custom tuning

13 -- without a boost controller there are no means by which the boost is intentionally cut back at high rpm. it may be intentionally designed this way to prevent engine damage, but the compressor housing simply cant flow enough air at a given pressure ratio to feed the renesis..the engine ends up sucking in more air than the turbo can output, so boost begins to drop off. a large compressor housing would solve this, at a cost of less velocity inside the compressor at lower rpms.

14 -- im pretty sure the emanage only modifies sensor outputs while in boost, so with no change and an exhaust restriction would certainly give worse gas mileage. this may not hold true with another form of EMS if the vaccum maps are tuned leaner.

 

Greddy is claiming the boost falls off at higher rpm's because of an issue with the wastegate which is why it can be corrected with the addition of a boost controller. If it was a problem with the turbo not being able to flow enough, then a boost controller would do nothing to remedy the problem. So I believe the problem is not the housing, but rather the wastegate setup.

 

i've seen t618z's set to 12 psi with a profec B lose boost as the RPM's climb. the compressor can probably hold 5.5psi or maybe even 7 all the way to redline. but above that, the turbo is a little undersized.

 

Hey im really new to the scene and i was wandering, I plan on getting the Revi intake system and the Ram air duct. Will i still be able to use this if i decide to get a Turbo Kit later on?

 

No, not without modification. But why would you want to in the first place? The REVi is a tuned intake, something that is pretty worthless with forced induction. Don't waste your $ if you are going FI.

-MD

 

Can someone repost the GReddy Install instructions. Link Died. I'm waiting for my kit to arrive and whatever headstart i can will help...

 

Instructions are in the downloads on my site.

 

this might help him out too

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-how-use-search-function-rx8club-com-forum-73846/

 

Indeed. I didn't mean to ressurect this thread, though. Sorry.

 

Can you tell me where I might find the instruction manual for the Greddy turbo kit? I have a kit sitting in my living room. They conveniently left out the instructions!! I have seen a few links to get to them, but none of them work.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Go to my site. Its in the download library.

 

How much increse in hourse power will I get with a turbo as apposed to how much will I get with a suppercharger?

 

If someone were to make the turbo a ball-bearing would that make any significant hp gains?

 

No. In fact, all it would do is exacerbate an existing problem.

 

Why is it good then to get the ball-bearing upgrade for the sfr turbo kit and not the greddy turbo?

 

Because the SFR turbo is big. The Greddy is small. Search is your friend.

 

I am plannning on going turbo and have searched the forum for a good long while and haven't found any answers to this question. Once you get a good tune (EManage or Interceptor-X) how often if at all do you have to re-tune it? I am willing ot spend quite a bit of time and money tuning the car but I don't want to do all that tuning only to have the stock ECU just "untune" it with fuel trim over time.

 

eManage:
If you set-up the emanage according to fix #3 (see also a thread I wrote entitled "better fuel management using the eManage") then the ECU doesn't have the ability, or desire, to change the fuel trims. The tune is locked-in.

Interceptor:
The ECU isn't involoved in fuel delivery at all. It can't change the fuel trims because its removed from the equation all together.

 

The only reason you will have to retune w/ the Interceptor, aside from adding new engine parts, is due to weather changes. You will probably need to tune one map for the winter and one for the summer. Then make small corrections to each using the temperature compensation map. At least in my case I have found the need to do this.