So how do i know if my kit is the newer kit?

There will be a nipple on the chargepipe that goes to ur TB that the JET Air hose connects to.

it is circled in Brettus' first post somewhere

on the charge pipe near where it couples up to the throttle body there will be a nipple coming off for the jet air hose. My kit is an older kit thus it didnt have this nipple originally, however, the previous owner decided to weld a hidious nipple which is the wrong size too :(

I have a top mount, but my jet air is hooked to the charge pipe right now, I am thinking of adding a check valve, to see if it changes anything, cant decide if intake would have more pressure then right at throttle body. It still could be a leak of sorts.

if you are connecting jet post turbo then you shouldnt need a check valve. we use the check valve to keep the jet air from blowing air back into the intake pre turbo

exactly :yesnod:

IF the jet has more pressure then the throttle its a boost leak, or reverse flow, possiblie shooting fuel right at throttle body

^^ I'm trying to find the drawing I had earlier with no luck; but where does the jet air hose tie into? I would Imagine that the pressure before the throttle body is always greater than the pressure in the manifold and it shouldn't matter as the direction of the pressure difference will always be away from the intake.... but i'm still looking for that damn drawing to see if I even make sense haha...

On mine its on the bottom center of the lower intake maifold.
If preassure is leaking back to the throttle body, its a boost leak. If the throttle body has more pressure then your boosting the manifold directly, helping mix fuel.

I just cant decide which is the case.

I'm not sure if we're saying the same thing or not but with the Jet air hose connected to the LIM, just from basic fluid mechanics there should be more pressure upstream (i.e charge pipe just before the TB) than downstream (i.e LIM) because of pressure drops (losses) in between the two locations. Meaning there should be no need for a Check valve if you have your jet air hose hooked to your charge pipe as flow will always be going from larger pressure (Charge pipe) to lower pressure (LIM). Although the difference between the two would be miniscule.

thats the basic idea, however, with running more pressure (connecting jet air to charge tube "boost") you run the risk of blowing the jet air tube off at different connections. This is what this thread is all about. be sure to either put zip ties or clamps on the connections.

Hose Clamps to be more safe

quick question, what hose connects to the nipple on the wastegate actuator? reviving 2 month old thread ftw.

A . None of the above


Answer 2 : It depends



Will you have a boost controller ?

^^I will not have a boost controller

Great thread Brettus, Thanks everyone.
I would just like to point out that to me ....... on my computer this picture represents the OMP hose (White stripe) being connected to where they are suggestion the Jet hose (Yellow stripe) should be connected.

I thought this was suppose to be Greddy's updated instructions lol, or it's just the picture being rendered poorly on my machine.

Love to stay and chat off to read the OMP thread by MM.

wastegate actuator to turbo outlet

took a look at the manual online. and zoomed in on it. it is yellow. haha

another thing, I connected the one way check valve hose (originally goes from the bottom of the throttle body to the to the vacuum chamber) to the nipple of the blow off valve. thoughts on this? also, there is a green sensor connected to the VFAD solenoid valve. What does this sensor read?

turbo outlet=compression pipe c-1? (that's how greddy instructions label it)

yes.

and your bov signal should not have a check valve

ok. any recommendations as to where the bov hose should be connected?

BOV signal comes from the VFAD nipple.

The green 'sensor' in the VFAD line is the solenoid valve to send the vacuum signal to the VFAD.

just incase you need this info: the vfad nipple is on the bottom of the UIM just after the TB.

^^ok, so just to make sure I understand, the VFAD nipple is located post throttle body on the underside of the UIM and all I need to do is remove the check valve hose and replace it with a "regular" hose. as for the green sensor, that is safe to be unplugged as there will be no vacuum signal to send because there is no VFAD?

correct. you can actually completely remove that solenoid valve if you would like to.

thank you very much, you guys are frikken awesome :ylsuper: I will hopefully be done with this project by tomorrow evening!

Yes, Nipple under the UIM behind the TB to the BOV... But I have a check valve in my line from the UIM to the BOV.... it came with my HKS SSQV.

Attached is a pic of where to hook ur Wasegate actuator signal to. You will have to add this nipple on your own as the kit doesn't come with it. Read MM's greddy turbo fixes thread

That's not a check valve... it's a small filter.

Oh really? I guess I don't have a check valve.... :lol:

fortunately, this nipple was already on the pipe :)

would there be any downsides to BOV performance if I were to tap the boost gauge hose to the hose used for the BOV? as I stated earlier, I currently have my BOV signal coming from that nipple under the UIM post throttle body

they 'should' be of the same source. where is your boost gauge hooked up to right now.

i have no gauges hooked up right now, but the car isn't driveable because of a f**ked up clutch slave hardline :banghead: so i figured i'd put on the finishing touches before I take it for a spin. do you recommend anywhere to tap in particular?

Tee off the nipple behind the Throttle body for both the boost gauge and BOV

will do, thank you!

Never mix signals on a single nipple if you can help it, especially the boost controller and the BOV.
The gauge and the BOV should be on separate nipples.

Definitely does not hurt to have everything running directly off of the UIM itself. I can see the benefits of that (and now you're making me think about it with my UIM, lol). There are only 3 nipples on the stock UIM (Evap, VFAD, Vacuum Canister), so in those cases there isn't really an option to not mix signals.

You can also use the LIM nipples as well.

Those have proven to be inconsistent for signals (boost controller/boost gauge/bov), but if one chooses to move the vacuum chamber supply line (and possibly the evap, since it's only there to detect vacuum) there, that's fine.

Guage up top (evap) and BOV below on Vfad - nothing wrong with that .

The BOV is the only thing that needs a quick pressure decay to operate properly so that is the one I would try keep on its own connection.

The tiny line running from my BOV line to the Boost gauge has little to no effect on the response of my BOV. I could imagine if the boost gauge line was larger diameter it would have more effect but from my personal experience it operates fine and theoretically should have no effect on it as they are not flow lines they are just pressure signals. Just make the line to your gauge and BOV as short as possible.

Once my EBC is connected to the turbo outlet and the built in boost gauge on it is connected pre-TB I'll be able to compare the two readings though.

where, on the UIM might I find the EVAP hose?

It is the "U"-shaped hose on the top.

^^cool, thank you. got the car running, unfortunately it is rather lean, it is getting pretty hot. but we got the logs and you will be seeing our submission on the next submission date, MM!

also, MM we got a 25 sec run at 4200 rpm (miscounted), I understand that you ask for 30 seconds in your logging procedure instructions, but if i were to submit our current log, would it suffice? the reason why i'm hesitant to re-log is because of how lean it was, i'm afraid of doing any damage

How lean ? sounds like you have an issue unrelated to the tune . No point trying to tune till you get that sorted .
Lean could mean a vac leak ...

the AFR's were in the 18's and 19's in between 3k and 4k.

A vacuum leak most likely on the wastegate or BOV?

/\ could be anywhere - best thing would be to do a leak test on the system .

I am also going to be ordering a new pre-cat 02 sensor as i am getting a p0130 code. I ordered one for the install, but they gave me the sensor that fit INTO the cat pipe (short wires) as opposed to the one that fit into the OEM header (long wires). I'm not saying that is causing some of the issues, but i feel it is definitely something to keep an eye on