If this connection was loose it could/would cause the tune to be lean. If you reconnect it would/could cause the tune to be lean?

I will need to check mine to see if the zip tie is still there and then replace it with a worm gear hose clamp.

Escape of metered air (eg boost leak) will cause a rich condition under boost and a lean condition under vacuum. If you tune for the leak by taking fuel out THEN fix the leak you will get a lean condition under boost .
Adding complexity to this is what your ECU does to try to correct via LTFTs .

Long story short ..... never tune with a boost leak .

FYI: heres a video of what that leak would sound like in the bay..its a pretty distinct sound
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...306_112522.mp4

hmm... Mine sounds very similiar to that except I was assuming mine was just my intake making that sound:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LXgI...el_video_title

I'll follow my Jet air hose to confirm its still attached

Thanks Greg . Also added a dyno to the 2nd post to show what the effect on power of this hose blowing off is .

very hard to tell on yours..that greddy intake is pretty noisey

^ Considering that is before I even had teh wheels back on the car I'd guess my hose is still attached (and I still havent hit a positive manifold pressure either). I'll still take a look at it and most likely put a house clamp on it.... Is it possible to get one on it with just the air pump removed?

if you remove the air pump its pretty easy to access

beauty.... Thanks

Brettus that engine bay looks like it could use a wipe down...:rofl:

/\ hehe - was looking at that myself - shamefull . Have not touched it in over a year .

Also see this thread for some additional clips of how it sounded for me. It gave a distinct and annoying whining noise.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/whine-uim-area-208149/

was it ?

I took a look at it but I couldn't see much with the Air pump in place. I would remove it but I have been busy with school lately and I really don't feel like working in my garage in the mid -20C's we've been getting of late. It's supposed to warm up so I will remove my air pump then. I tried to trace the line and to me it looked like it went behind the alternator then took a jog toward the firewall bettween the UIM and LIM near the fuel rail. From there I couldn't follow the line any further with the air pump in place. I noticed the picture of yours with the red circle and could see about the same thing as your picture. Does the Jet air hose make it's way back to that location or did I mess up with hose is which? (pretty sure I didn't but who knows)


Either way I fired the engine up and the only sound I could hear like the videos is coming directly from the GReddy intake. So I am assuming that my Jet Air is still in place; but like I said I have not hit any positive manifold pressures yet and my car is currently parked until the snow melts off the roads.

the hose you are tracing toward the fuel rail is the OMP line.

THANK GOD for this thread and thank you NGO.... So I went out and looked again and I traced the hose which I thought was the OMP line and it meets up with the Steel line exactly where the picture dictated (still connected). So turns out I had my Jet Air hose and OMP hose mixed.... on the plus side should be an easy fix.

Also I believe this little swap should not have affected my Data logs for Jeff at all. Any opinions on this? I was hoping to get my next map on tuesday or thursday when he does the Live chat sessions. I am still on the base map so I only have a log at idle and cruise (no boost, no WOT).

So OMP saw boost and jet air would be leaking back into intake under boost . Should not be a dramatic effect on logs but obviously better to get it right . Don't forget the ziptie on the hose in the red circle :).


Also - do you need to change your post on the first page showing which hose is which ?

Yup post fixed ... and I will be hose clamping the jet air thats for sure... it lookes pretty easy to reach with the air pump gone. And yeah my OMP would be seeing boost had I gotten that far haha.

Yeah I realize the logs are better if the hoses are proper but I just can't get another log right now and was hoping that it wouldn't make a big deal so I could get a 4.01 log from MM on tuesday. I'll have to take it up with him during the session to be 100% clear.

Okay so I swapped around my Jet Air hose and OMP hose.... now I am getting a loud whining sound from the intake. Upon further investigation it is coming from the line on the top of my intake closest to the front of the vehicle; the line has a large amount of suction at idle... wtf is going wrong here? The line that is making the whining is the OMP breather line as it goes behind the alternator and then toward the back of the bay between the LIM and UIM near the fuel rail.

Here is a video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jxc498WVMPk

nothing to do with the tee you have going to the boost solenoid ?

Dont believe so... I mean you can clearly hear the noice stop when I was blocking off the OMP hose so.... The OMP hose is supposed to be under vacuum at idle right?

ok - yes there is vacuum from mine as well but only a very small amount nothing like what you are getting .

Damn... no suggestions for that hey? The suction on mine is not that strong... but you can hear it when I put my thumb off and on the end... I guess I can try and go screw around with it some more

It didnt start making that high pitched noise untill the car was warm too btw

It could be to do with a faulty oil injector - some kind of resonance vibration from the check valve maybe :dunno:

Others have had the same noise apparently - the Greddy intake does not muffle the sound well .

Well it seems odd that it would just start doing that after I swapped the hoses; and I don't have a check valve on the OMP line, or any line for that matter.... What are typical OMP values read from the AP during warm idle... I could monitor those I guess. Will I need a check valve on the OPM line? will it see positive pressure?

You probably just couldn't hear it before when it was on the charge tube - that would muffle it nicely .


No check valve necessary on the omp line (it wouldn't hurt though) - each individual injector has its own check valve anyway .

Hmm... so you think it's nothing to worry about? It's really a piss off (pretty annoying) I wonder if a check valve would help muffle it...

Are oil injectors crapping out a common thing? I haven't really heard of it and my car only has 40000kms on it

Maybe - one way to find out . I think Gregs lost the noise when he fitted the AEM intake - Greg ?

Have heard the check valves can stop working - there is a checking procedure for them . Don't ask me how to do that .

hmm, I wonder if having the OMP line on the Charge pipe screwed with the check valves on one or more of the injectors somehow :dunno:

Will have to look into how to check them.

Hopefully someone who's seen this before can chip in...

OK - just did a little test . Hooked the omp breather line up to a boost guage . It draws high vacuum at idle and even higher under load but does NOT see boost . If yours sees boost the check valves would have to be faulty .

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=309

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/omp-boost-potential-problem-117352/

Both of my lines are going into my intake tube as I don't have a nipple on my charge tube. I see RotaryMachineRX's photos and am pretty familiar with my turbo setup and rotary mechanics but never dealt with check valves. I understand splicing the jet air hose and inserting a check valve but what is the other line that goes into the valve? Where does it go?

That's not a check valve... It's a Tee fitting for my wastegate actuator signal. Also I was thinking iff the oil nozzle check valves did see boost airflow would still be in the same direction as under vacuum and shouldn't hurt the check valves...i think haha

Okay reading the links Team posted (thanks by the way team!) having the OMP line hooked up post turbo is actually not a bad idea..... Although that is from 2007 I still think I am going to do a vacuum test on them with a hand pump. While I'm at it i will also do a vacuum test on my ssv actuator as it looked easy to get at with the air pump removed and i think mine was causing low MAF g/s when i was N/A.

Does anyone have a photo of a check valve in their jet air hose? Got a couple options to go with and would like to see a pic before I start fiddling.

here ya go

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1299875160

Thanks. I can work wit that.

just want to make sure what color is which hose "Jet Air Hose was marked with a yellow patch on it and the air hose from the OMP is marked in a White patch.?? thanks

Correct

thank you for reply .RotaryMachineRx

I installed a check valve in the jet air hose today and took the car out for a spin. My AFRs are leaner but considering I was running a conservative rich tune anyway I see no need for a re tune. Didn't get enough time to notice a power difference as I was too concerned with monitoring my fuel ratios but I did notice a difference in how fast the car accelerated. So far I'm going to leave it.

Okay so if I want to do a vacuum test on my OMP nozzles do I have to do each one separately or would I be able to do the test on the OMP breather line? I did do the test on the breather line and I'm not sure is it's just the vacuum pump I am using or not but it would only get to about -0.5 bar (-7.25psi); where it is required to get to -9.65psi. After getting the vacuum as high as possible through the breather hose it would hold it for a few seconds then eventually go back to atmospheric in about 15 seconds.

I had the same issue. Then I put the car back together and never tested the negative on each injector :sad:

This will be an upcoming weekend project

Geesh my head is spinning. I am glad I replaced my OMP and all the vacuum hoses while I was in there.

I know what you mean man, every greddy thread (every important modding thread for that matter) has back and forth opinions and ideas on just about every little thing. At the end of the thread you still sit there and say, "sooooo is it better this way or this way???? :dunno: "


I have come to the conclusion that you have to just read super slow and take your time trying to understand the fundamentals behind what each person is trying to say. If you can understand how each little thing actually works then you can start to read between the lines of what everyone is attempting to splurge out in posts.

I read super slow anyway. Not by choice though.

I have to ask.... other than blowing the tubes off, what are the risks, if any, with running the jet air to the charge tube. And vise versa, what are the risks with running it pre turbo?

I understand The purpose of using the check valve, but I do want to decide between hooking the jet air hose up post or pre turbo

The only advantage to pre turbo that I can come up with is that the jet air would get metered air as apposed to boost.

Im am pretty much posting this so someone can come in and confirm my thoughts :lol:

Pre turbo. Advantage: mine works. Post turbo: lets try yours and see what happens. :)

the insight from this guy is just caddywompus

Well all the new GReddy turbo kits have a spot for the Jet air POST turbo. That is where mine is connected and with this set-up I believe there is no need for a check valve in the line. Also I tied in my Wastegate signal to this hose so it accounts for all the losses through the IC, etc.

Also I have an oil catch can so oil in the intake should be a non-issue.