Yeah I'm really digging this whole thing. I learned a bunch and I'm super enthused. I just wish I could stay up there 24/7 and watch the whole process start to finish but I need money so I'll just go watch as much as possible.

Actual question rather than update: How can you tell if it's supported enough or not? I don't really understand but at what point can you say something is or not? And also in theory aren't they all developed the same, so why are some having issues if this is true?

 

the side seal crashing into the port closing line is something that has limited the size of streetports in the earlier models, but i've never heard of it on a 6-port engine (until now).

i'll show you what we're talking about when you're up here next time. it'll be a lot easier for you to visualise when you can see a rotor on the housing.

 

and she's torn down

i got a bunch of pics, but they were with a real cam so i'll have to get them developed and then scan them before they're posted...look for them early-mid next week ~~~tuesday-wednesday optimistically.

 

Nope. It wouldn't look like that.

 

Geez....this is the best thread on the whole forum right now. Did you guys get a reading of the power Snoochie's engine was putting out before you tore it down to port it?

 

yea, i posted the dyno sheet a few pages back and also some rough pics of another one i ported. 18 pages is a lot to dig through, but i know they're in there somewhere.

 

Interesting thread!


If you plan to use Gasket Maker, I would imagine any kind of automotive wax might work. You just don't want to use anything that will leave an oily film on the surface because the silicon will not brush-on.

John

 

i caved in and bought a digital cam...

 

pic 1 you can see where the exhaust has to make pretty much a dead 90 to enter the port, then another to get pointed outward.

pics 2 and 3 illustrate how you can't see the entrance or combustion chamber from the port. take velocity and set it aside and say in an overly simplified way: line of sight. the path of least resistance, etc etc..

i'm gonna go crazy in the next few days with the pics.. i'll probably end up starting a new thread just so people don't have to flip through so many pages to get what they're looking for.

 

The major problem that I can see is thinning the aluminum making a hot spot in the water jacket. The project looks like a lot of fun! Thanks again for the hard work.

Vince

 

what aluminum?

 

****, I meant cast iron!

Vince

 

this is the exhaust of the very first one i did.
it's much more flow-friendly than stock, but i was being really conservative--since i didn't have any info. i figured better to be on the safe side...

the next one will get hogged out a bit more to give the exhaust a much more unhampered flow path from the combustion chamber.

 

i get what your'e saying, i ground right through the water jacket and then had a buddy weld it back up. otherwise, you wouldn't be able to do hardly anything except radius the opening edge-which wouldn't add enough benefit to justify taking the engine apart.

 

the next one i plan on making similar to the pic..
the everything to the right of the red line will hypathetically be air, but again, there's the OTHER water jacket there i gotta watch out for. i'll see how close i can make the pic and reality come together.

 

That's why they call it "bleeding edge" man.

Most people that do what your doing keep it to themselves, thanks for sharing!

Vince

 

Wow, Guitarjunkie that looks really neat, I haven't seen many pictures of these things and I'm interested even more so now. Digital cameras are awesome, but I'd still like to see the others you took with the regular camera :D Thanks for doing all this man, you are awesome!

 

glad you brought that up. i do business a different way. i don't believe in secrets... if i know something you don't, i'm happy to share it. i figure if i do good work, it'll speak for itself.

here's the workbench...

1) safety equipment!!!!!! beenie, mask, dust mask, ear and eye protection. if you're doing this yourself, DO NOT skimp on this stuff!!!

2) dremel section: for all the hard to reach spots and fine work where not much material removal is required.

3) die grinder...carbide and stone section: stone is cool for removing lots of material because it's cheap... the carbide is used to shape the ports. most of the portwork is done with this stuff.

4) sanding section (also for use with the die grinder): after it's all shaped up, i use this to clean up the runners and edges.

5) finishing section: more sanding wheels, but finer grit so they leave a nice smooth finish behind.

in the first pic, you can also see the template i made....and may make more of

that's basically all the stuff i use...unless i forgot to put anything on the bench. if you get it all at once, plan on investing $400 or more, but piece at a time it doesn't feel so expensive.

 

make that the second pic for the template...
the pics i took witht he real camera sucked..i got a 5 MP digi cam cuz i'm seriously tired of not being able to post decent pics.

 

Thanks for the pics and ponying up for a digicam... we all appreciate the work you're putting into this and contributing this info to the forum

 

Those pics are really small and it's hard to see any detail in them. Are you resizing them, or is your camera set to a really low resolution?

 

i didn't want to try to make them too big because there's a size limit.

i cna resize them and email them to you though. which ones do you want?

 

Oh, don't waste your time just sending me photos. Even if you're posting an image 1200x1200 in size, as long as your jpeg compression isn't set at 0, you should be able to get it in under the 200k file size limit. I think aiming for the largest length of the photo being between 800-1200 should result with a large enough photo.

For example, this is 1500 wide, and depending on the jpeg compression ratio used, it comes out to 130-200k in size.

 

okie. well i'll try to make the future ones bigger anyway.

 

Anyone know what coolant to use? I called the dealership and was told that "the mechanic said if it's green use green and if it's orange use orange" When I asked what brand or grade she said just to get a good one. Good god.