kdparsons80

Alright I'm looking for the most reliable FI system. Daily driving, no cel lights, and around 100+ horsepower. Is that possible? This is my toy car but I don't want to blow it up. Looking in a price range of about 3k-6k. All help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

simplyphp

CEL lights are typically from exhaust, not FI.

Yeah you can do it, but the question is - for how long. All rotaries will die eventually, and FI will make it die quicker. Mwahahah, CHOOSE YOUR POISON!

mysql

That price range leaves you open to many FI options. However unless you do the labor yourself, you'll need to drop even more cash for install and tuning, and even more for gauges and whatnot.

If you need to stay under 6k price tag for everything, GReddy is still the only game in town. You should be able to get 270 whp range - which is about 90 over stock.

It may not be the best choice, but it will be OK if you get the accessport for fuel management and will meet your price range.

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

?? serisously? if he's looking for reliable, he pretty much ha to get rid of the cat. this will produce the same CEL issues as a mid pipe that your reffering to. Of course with the AP, none of that is any longer an issue. agreed, the more you stress anything, the shorter its lifespan.

ewww i'm having nightmares of worn out scroll bearings and oil coking

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

Most engine management systems required for FI will throw a CEL, of course the AccessPORT does not.

Your price range is tight. I once heard this saying when modifying cars, and it always holds true:

When modifying cars, you can have Fast, Reliable, and Inexpensive. Pick two, it won't be the third.

For example; If you want fast and reliable (two points you want), it won't be inexpensive. If you want fast and inexpensive, it won't be reliable. And finally you want reliable and inexpensive, it won't be fast.

FI can be reliable, it mainly depends on your tune and your own definition of "reliable". To some people, a small oil leak here isn't such a big deal, but others don't want to deal with it.

tunerwannab

iTrader: (1)

Get a VW they have no cel and I think they make little more that 100hp.

You could find a used greddy and upgrade your injectors and get an AP from MM for that price I think. I think that would be good for around 275whp if i'm not mistaken.

tunerwannab

iTrader: (1)

When you say "toy car" is this you second car or is it really your dailey driver?

mysql

under 300 whp don't need upgraded injectors. they're a pain to swap out so avoid it unless you're at 300.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

my own personnel opinion is i like the supercharger set up from Pettit. Flashs the oem computer(no cels--unless you remove cat), not boosting at cruise, getting 23mpg on highway and the usual 17 around town, the torque curve is a little better for a daily driver and the hp of 285-300 is there. It is a self install system if you like, It will run a little more than 6K once you include the flash, the needed cooling upgrades(all fi's need them) and a water meth system(all fi rx8's need this!). But what is another 1K when you are speaking of this. DO it right the 1st time.
olddragger

kdparsons80

Thanks for the input. Looks like I have to make some decisions. Oh, my daily driver is a POS 97 Dodge Neon.

Red Rex

iTrader: (1)

EVERYONE wants a simple, easy to drive daily, and reliable FI system. Any system will lower the lifespan of your car. Period. That doesn't mean it'll fall apart 2 months from now, but don't go expecting 200,000 miles or anything even close.

Don't look for a reliable system. Reliability is all in the tune. The more horsepower, the more delicate your tune is. Your car needs to be running at 120% before going anywhere near a turbo or supercharger. The tiny mistakes that are no big deal at 180 rwhp are ticking time bombs at 300 rwhp.

Instead, study your driving habits. My last car had a V8 up front, so as much as I love the stupidly high RPM's of the 13B, I miss the low end power and its really noticeable some days how much I need to wind the car out to get anywhere. Most of the FI kits make around the same peak horsepower anyway. Only difference is the way they get to that peak power. Find the one that suits you best.

Also, have you upgraded your car at all? The Cobb AccessPort and Mazsport Ignition solution are supposed to be excellent, safe, and reliable upgrades. Sounds like what you're looking for.

Unless you're a true speed junky and have cash to BURN (as in pay for the kit, ECU, all the supporting mods like new and better tires and its smart to change your oil twice as often, and still have thousands left over for safety net money) I would stay away from FI. The aftermarket for the RX8 is starting to slowly grow and if you buy the rights mods, you'll be taking on FD RX7's in no time. Or you could just wait for the new rotary car to come out. Mazda is looking at a two-seater and is reportedly fooling around with stock FI on the 16X.

em1turbo

sorry. nood question but what is an FI?

BigRed

you are so "nood" that you dont know how to spell it It's Noob. That is, unless you meant "nude,"which just means naked.



FI is just forced induction.

em1turbo

whats with you and correcting spelling. Thnx for the help though.

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

ha if your going FI your gonna get alot of spelling and grammer corrections thrown at you there are several people here in the FI club notorious for ripping apart incorrect grammer usage....
Obviously there are the two routes to go down when traveling the FI road, a SuperCharger or TurboCharger and both options have experts and cases for chosing thier setup backed with vast amounts of knowledge so the best thing for you would be to read up on your oprtions. All your questions can be answered in depth, if you dont do your research youll get ripped apart by unpatient people whom have already ansewred these questions... Good Luck...

SlideWayz

'high compression rotary engine with aftermarket turbocharger' and 'reliable'?

Probably the closest thing is the MM turbo kit & Cobb Accessport.

So far, I think there are very few, if any, Renesis engines that have survived >50,000 miles of duty with a turbo or supercharger kit.

Be prepared to double your $3-6k 'investment' to cover the cost of replacing a blown engine at some point.

tunerwannab

iTrader: (1)

Paging Mysql. He had a good chunk of miles on his 8 boosted before he got an oil leak.

mysql

After 2 years, I had an incident due to a tuning issue which caused a crack to form in the front iron. If you look at my engine rebuild thread, you'll see the engine was immaculate. Seals, housing, everything could have kept going for 100k+ more miles with FI.

My conclusion is that if you maintain your RX-8, use the AccessPort with a MazdaManiac tune, get a CAI that flows across the MAF properly, and the BHR/MM 3071R turbo kit, you'll be able to get reliable 350 whp and not have any issue.

SlideWayz

Perhaps. You live in the land of reliable 93 octane, yes?

Did you have your tuning issue before or after the MM/Accessport upgrade?