I am working now guys. I am cleaning up some nuts and bolts and putting everything back on the motor as I go. Grungepup came by and took me to get give me a hand on sourcing some silicon vacuum hoses and some other hardware.

Unfortunately I am waiting for a new center section (one with proper orientation) for the turbo and then it will be sent back. They are taking forever but Rob at AMR has been great communication wise so as of now I stand to get it back by Wednesday. But I should be at a point by the end of this weekend to where I can just slap the turbo on when I get it and then install the motor.

That is when I will call out for help

 

Uh what the hell is going on

 

Wow.. lol...

I'm actually more concerned about the fact that you read his post and that's what stood out to you...

 

lol

 

jealousy maybe

 

Pdx should have kept the last line too

 

It takes real ***** to have 42+ pages of lead up, this better be good ....

 

what size airfilter will you be running? According to calculations we need approx 100 sq inches of filter space for 350 grams/sec of airflow at 8K.
I have seen too small of a filter placed on a FI 8 before, and I never see any discussion on the need for a properly sized filter, so I thought I would ask.

 

OD,

I'm running the biggest paper filter I can fit. That is something I still need to decide on but I went with 3.5" piping.

Okay guys does anyone have one of these laying around? It appears one of mine stayed in the old motor. I tried looking up the part but I cannot seem to find it sold separately. I am going to call the dealer tomorrow but thought I would ask you guys.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6206584036/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6206068797/

 

Didn't you buy a gasket set? ...the injector seals come in the set

 

No I didn't. I just bought most of the gaskets one by one, I never thought of the injectors seals.

 

Part# is N3H2-13-257 Insulator-Injector

 

You are the man. Not sure why I couldn't find that in the FSM It appears Atkins sells a kit with all of them, thanks again!

 

I just connected the fact that you'll finally be ready this coming weekend and I'm going out of town for some family stuff. If you manage to get it all together and start it up, be sure to at least get a video of the first start up lol. The real fun doesn't start until you have a safe tune for the boost anyways.

 

We shall see man, at this point I have given up on deadlines Every time I get moving I find something else I need to replace that I cannot get locally. But I am trying to get this done ASAP. I miss my freaking car.

 

I know the feeling, hope you get her up and running smooth soon!

 

Well Hopefully Raul will be back from the body shop this week so you have something to drive around.

 

dont forget to not use the gas line the connects the two fuel rails---or if you have too-- then make dang sure the little red half moon spacer things are still in it and either zip tie or worm clamp the blue clips tight. You dont want a leak there and if you are not very careful it can happen. I lost an engine on track due to that little red spacer. I dont want anyone to go through that.
It is also not unusual to have an injector o ring leak after the reinstall. It doesnt happen all the time, but I have seen a couple, so triple check the injector install.
Also get the engine harness tied down like oem. use zip ties or whatever. if you dont you will have increased noise in the electrical system. That in itself may not cause much if any problems, but it could and zip ties are cheap.
Its a good time to address the power steering conectors too?
I estimate you will need about 112 square inches of air filter for max flow. Thats with K&N's filter medium which is higher than any others. Off course, you want to oversize the filter. Air filter restriction is more common that some people may believe. I have seen other cars actually have "Neg boost" from an air filter that doesnt flow well enough. Its a detail that needs looking at. If you are putting this much money and time into your build, just take a look at this and make sure you have what you need.
For example a 5 inch round AEM type filter is not enough for the higher rpms.

 

I have been pimping the GF's Mazda 3S around, it's actually a pretty nice daily. But Raul better be ready today or else


Thanks OD, I should probably just replace those fuel lines and I think I will just to be safe. I've come this far I might as well.

 

I hit up each connection with some dilectric grease, and sanded down each ground point and hit those up with dilectric as well.

 

there's nothing wrong with reusing the fuel lines, just because somebody who didn't know what they were doing made a mistake does not justify replacing good parts

 

+1

I've taken that specific fuel line out 5 or so times and reused it every time. They are made to be reused.

 

I do not want to clutter up this thread in arguing about this fuel line. If people will bother to search, they will discover some good info about it. But, just to note, I am not the only one that has had trouble with it. I personnally know of one car that burned to the ground because of it.
Mazda themselves will not sell a new connector for it--they recommend replacing it.
Cam at Pettit racing recommends securing that connector if it is reused as he has seen leakage there on other cars.
But its yall's car--do what you want to it.

 

falls under the saying "rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it"
or maybe "better to be safe than sorry"...take your pick

 

Yeah my fuel lines have 127,000 miles on them and I just think I might as well replace them.