Originally Posted by SSA

Motor mounts are solid.. Originally were the mazsport mounts. Since the new block was put it. new solid custom ones were machined/fabricated. 3rd gen UIM
J-spec version (no emissions component) Greddy Elbow to the factory throttle body, Drive by wire. Tial 44mmWG and HKS ssqv BOV. BHR Spacer accomodates the meth kit which is in the trunk. Deleted the OMP, so premixing is necessary. Mazsport dual resonated midpipe is on with straight pipe to the tips. stock ecu, stock waterpump, alternator,ac, greddy underdrive pulley and 6 fuel injectors total.

Originally Posted by SSA

I am in no way trying to provoke an arguement. Its more of a discussion. Prior to the engine swap, My mazsport kit never saw an overheat, no matter how hard I pushed the vehicle. not even close. True track driving? MAYBE it MAY overheat....but maybe not. I spared no expense on the car, If the situation called for an upgrade; it would be done. Your saying that 'true track driving' calls for the highest demand out of the cooling system. Did you run the mazsport fan relay to try and disprove the theory? I see no reason to upgrade a system that frankly, runs perfect in every aspect I have put it through. I am confident I can 'true track drive' it and the temps will stay stable. If not, at that point, a radiator may be necessary. What I dont understand is how autox does not require as much demand as your 'true track driving. If the vehicle is going to be held at high rpms, with low speed for a significant amount of time, How would that be less 'true' to a track that has a long distance to catch ram-air, more braking points where rpms drop. Even oil temps, yeah they get hot. but the mazdaspeed front bumpers large openings, along with myself trimming the blocking rubber oil cooler shields have shown that maybe those aftermarket solutions may be not be as necessary as we should. I have seen people put rads in mildly modified rx8's, and fans on there twin oil coolers thinking its the right thing to do... When meanwhile myself, and im sure others, are running the factory PROVEN components that are throroughly tested to BLAZING temps, in there FI or heavily modded applications, assuming fitment wasnt the issue, without drastic measures.
Its all the people out there saying. CHANGE THIS part, because its weak, AND CHANGE THAT PART, because its not as good as this. When truth is.. its just fine! As i previously stated. I run my own high performance shop, and change lots of parts that have been modified and upgraded. Ill install anything you want me to put in..But, I'll give an honest opinion to my customer if I feel the part is an absolute waste of money, no matter how much it cost them, or if the part should be returned, and money spent to a more necessary solution accustomed to there specific build... . And its mainly based on customers use of the vehicle.. And there obviously are weak parts out there, and better mods, but is it necessary for the specific application. There may be a better cooling system, but I dont need it! And judging by all the mods I have done and many forum members on this site have done.. Not many of you guys really need it either. A guy who is road racing, probably wont be interested in a set of Drag Radials. Point is, members shouldn't go around telling people there build is subpar, simply because they feel it is. Have proof, maybe ask if they will ever 'true track' there car, where your radiator will be a necessity, according to your claims.
Once again. Not arguing. Not being an internet tough-guy to you or anyone else on this site. We are Discussing a topic.. Those who want to justify there purchase may be mad. Those who truly needed it, will understand the point. And those who agree, well, dont be afraid, to chime in and speak up.

SSA

Originally Posted by jayscoobs

Very interesting, the only fabrication needed was motor mounts? The RX8 front cover didnt need any modification to bolt to the FD motor?

Originally Posted by Highway8

Originally Posted by SSA

Rx8 cover needed minor modification to work, there was a lot of educated trial and error on the KDR crew, but nothing that wasn't overcome. We had seen another swap by another company (which I will not name) and noticed they had to notch the hood to clear the UIM, and had to cut harnesses and run 4 computers to get the thing running. Daves knowledge of rotaries and electronics defenitely saved me a lot of unnecessary expenses and return a car that did not need to be hacked up, cut & rewired. And the hood, I would say a good 6" of clearance.

Originally Posted by olddragger

people dont believe my temps stay so cool either with just a 21x 7 secondary radiator and I am at approx 300 whp.
Lower compression engines do run a little cooler--but i hear what you are saying bse 50.
The pp engine also has cooler exhaust ports to deal with.
I have seen many RX7's at this power level, in moderate climates, run cool with proper ducting and good fan control.

the reason the 8 runs hot is not because of the engine. It is simply because of the limited amount of air flow through the radiator.
He probably has very good fan control, proper ducting, proper coolant, and proper tuning.
I believe him.
I think he will see higher temps on a road track in above 95F ambiet weather when he is using all that horsepower. Whether or not they are too high--well that is to be proven?
OD

Originally Posted by TeamRX8

first, thanks for sharing

second, I noticed that you left the engine management details out ...

Originally Posted by SSA

OK..
Before running my RX7 swap, The SAME TEMPERATURES WERE OBSERVED WITH THE TURBO RX8 ENGINE. Maybe +-2 degrees. All that was done was Mazsports relay. IT WORKS. forget the low compression and other factors, all that stuff account for an insignificant amount in respect to this debate. With Mazsport type 3, & fan mod on rx8 block, temperatures were the same as with the rx7 REW. Motor Positioning allows for temperature variance, like bse50 said.(which i agree with)...Busy engine bay, Oldragger says proper tuning (also agree).
Theres no simple solution here. Stinksause has problems stock! I didnt have problems stock. Spending about 89 bucks on a cooling system solution worked for me. IT MAY NOT HAVE FOR YOU. But making false claims that It doesnt work with my setup in condition 'x'.. is pure assumption.
We all have different setups. Car 'A' needs Fan Mod only. Car 'B' Needs radiator, waterpump, & NASA technology to get what "A" has. Its all modification, Its the endless game of what works with what. I know that my setup, meets my requirements.

Originally Posted by bse50

You're right, if your car doesn't overheat then there's no need to worry. All the swapped guys I know here track their car hard and i forgot to put that into the equation... my head is all over the place lately



It's not the years of experience making the difference here, it's just the mind that's behind your project.
The other shop is probably owned by a trained ape according to what you say
I was not saying that they didn't do a good job, i was just pointing out that your swap is fairly "normal" and that the other shop was simply wrong.
Of the 3 guys that asked (and paid) for a conversion amongst my acquaintances here one is running an Apexi PFC, one an HKS F-Con vpro and another one a microtec like yours.... so the ecu is no voodoo either, find one that suits your needs and budget and tune it!

It may sound like i'm bashing your build, i'm not. I find it pretty cool actually! It was just the way you put the comparison with the other shop that didn't sound right.