where should i tap?
I'm in the process of installing my new 12'' Alpine type r in my custom fberglass box, with the alpine mrd-m605 amplifier. Im a n00b at all this stuff, so I just had a few questions.
1. Where do you tap into the audio line. Do you run a line directly for the headunit, or can you get the audio signal from the speakers in back? is there any difference.
2. For the bose I was told i need a line output converter, which i purchased for 15$. Does this mount somewhere behind the head unit, or what?
3. Should I run the 4-gauge power line and the RCA cable line on separate sides of the car, I read on some website that this is recommended, but do you have to go through this much hassle?
4. When running the rca and power lines, is it impossible to install these without taking out the back seats?
5. Where do you recommend I install the one amp, for a nice clean look. I was thinking in the drop off hoel thing, but that might be too difficult, or just mounting it to the back seat? any suggestions?
Thanks, any help is greatly appreciated, Greg
1. Where do you tap into the audio line. Do you run a line directly for the headunit, or can you get the audio signal from the speakers in back? is there any difference.
2. For the bose I was told i need a line output converter, which i purchased for 15$. Does this mount somewhere behind the head unit, or what?
3. Should I run the 4-gauge power line and the RCA cable line on separate sides of the car, I read on some website that this is recommended, but do you have to go through this much hassle?
4. When running the rca and power lines, is it impossible to install these without taking out the back seats?
5. Where do you recommend I install the one amp, for a nice clean look. I was thinking in the drop off hoel thing, but that might be too difficult, or just mounting it to the back seat? any suggestions?
Thanks, any help is greatly appreciated, Greg
1 & 2. Usually right before the main (rear) amp. Yes there is a huge difference.
3. Recommended, but not really necessary if you use good cables. If you get your signal from the rear of the car, this won't matter anyway.
4. Just take the back seats (or seat) out. If it takes you more than 5 minutes for both, you shouldn't be working on it yourself anyway.
5. Personal preference. The hole in the trunk gets hot, but I have mine there (for now) and many other people have them there too.
Read all of the audio sticky and all of the threads it points you towards. All of these questions are answered numerous times.
Good Luck!
3. Recommended, but not really necessary if you use good cables. If you get your signal from the rear of the car, this won't matter anyway.
4. Just take the back seats (or seat) out. If it takes you more than 5 minutes for both, you shouldn't be working on it yourself anyway.
5. Personal preference. The hole in the trunk gets hot, but I have mine there (for now) and many other people have them there too.
Read all of the audio sticky and all of the threads it points you towards. All of these questions are answered numerous times.
Good Luck!
Hi mcgregor129:
As you point out in #2, the connection between the head unit and power amp in the Bose system is differential, and an adaptor is needed to avoid noise and more importantly head unit damage. I think you might be dissappointed with anything less than a very high quality convertor. Member Rotary Rasp has a superb pictorial of this (and many other mods) on his personal web site. ( http://rx8.no-ip.org/amp.htm ) He reccommends using the adaptor available here: http://www.logjamelectronics.com/sounlocbosli.html. Yes, it's a ton of money, but this is a non trivial component, and IMHO will affect the final sound quality a lot more than you'd think.
As you point out in #2, the connection between the head unit and power amp in the Bose system is differential, and an adaptor is needed to avoid noise and more importantly head unit damage. I think you might be dissappointed with anything less than a very high quality convertor. Member Rotary Rasp has a superb pictorial of this (and many other mods) on his personal web site. ( http://rx8.no-ip.org/amp.htm ) He reccommends using the adaptor available here: http://www.logjamelectronics.com/sounlocbosli.html. Yes, it's a ton of money, but this is a non trivial component, and IMHO will affect the final sound quality a lot more than you'd think.
i am currently using the NE-7V from david navone engineering... its a 2 channel line convertor with adjustable trim pots. i am tapped in just before the Bose amp, and running a kicker ZX400.1 and a Kappa Perfect 12"dVQ in the Zenclosures box... i couldnt be happier with what i have
I first used an AudioControl 6XS then switched to the JL CleanSweep since it has aux inputs. Both work perfectly. However, if all you are doing is adding a sub, you should be fine w/ an inexpensive LOC. I would at least stick w/ a quality brand. Make sure it has level adjustments so you can set your system properly.
thanks so much for all the advice everyone, but just 2 more questions. Is the line you tap before the bose amp, the line that runs from the bose HU, and where did you guys run the blue lead wire (for turn on stuff for the aftermarket amp)
man i appreciate all of this info... i have one question though. can you just replace the stock bose amp with any after market amp...or do you need to purchase extra components to make it work with the system?
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