Dugless

I just installed a JL Amp and Sub, here's my question:

How loud (what number on your stock headunit) can you get to before the Bose system clips out and reduces power?

I have tried this with two amps (JL and PPI) and I have tried it with tapping into the rear speakers and I got the Audio Schematics and tapped into the low-level out from the head unit itself, same problem.

Every time I get to 19 or 20 the Bose amp some how powers down reducing the input level to the Sub amp. When volume is reduced , the Bose amp "clicks" back on (yes, you can hear it). Try playing music at 25 then hit the mute button on the wheel. With the trunk reach-through piece removed, you will hear it.

This some how affects the sub amps, I have been to 2 different pro audio shops and they are stumped.

I am using 4 gauge PWR/GRD and and every connection is solid. I know is getting enough signal and power because when the volume is low, I can crank the gain and the box wants blow out the windows, it's damn loud. It's only when the Head Unit goes above 20 or so.

Please let me know if any of you have had the same problem, and if you did, how did you fix it?

Mikeb, I went my Advanced Car in GG and theyweren't really any help, thanks though.....

mikeb

wow
sorry about advanced not helping
they did my whole system
if it makes you feel better I'm gonna call them tomorrow and see why they couldnt' help ---sorry

Dugless

You da man, this amp thing is driving me freakin crazy....

Dugless

Hey Mike, could do me a favor. The next time you're in your 8, could you put the bass on the Head Unit to 0 or +1 and see if you experience the same problem, the sub amp might cut at volume 22 or 23.

Thanks!!!!

Kev

Have you guy's got the audiopilot on?

Also, just try running the amp without the subs themselves connected - to see if it's some form of signal drain issue (I doubt) of if the audiopilot crap is picking up the output from the subs.

I haven't really bothered to try and understand the details of the Bose system. If I could have got the car in Oz with leather and without the Bose I would have - just to save a few bucks, coz it'll all be coming out anyway.

I just wish there was a nice centre console replacement already available. The thought of doing a good job on a "one off" worries me a little.

I was also worried that the steering wheel audio controls would be lost in a custom replacement ... but thinking about it, they're probably just 6 switches that could be wired into any remote's harness.

mikeb

dugless
I will try that later and post tonight what happens

as far as audiopilot mine is off

MrWigggles

Dugless,

Does your amp have speaker level inputs, most PPI's don't. In that case, what type of signal converter are they using, PAC?

PAC convertors do more than just reduce the speaker level signal they also change the grounding of the BTL signal into a true pre-out signals.

If you are going straight into your PPI amp, (PPI has their own special differiental input topology), that maybe your problem.

Also out of curiosity, disconnect one of your signal cable (left or right) from the amp and see if you still have the problem.

-Mr. Wigggles

mikeb

dugless,
I turned head unit bass to -1, -2 and 0 and my system sounded even better. So now I've left it at -2 bass on the head unit.

Dugless

Well, I finally fixed the problem.

First off, I am using the low voltage line outputs from the head unit. I found them on the Audio Schematics that Mr Wigggles provided (Thanks!), so speaker level inputs (high voltage) is not an issue.

I tested just about every wire in the system and found that the Bose remote turn on wire is not compatible with aftermarket amps. Because of this, when the volume reached a certain point, around 20, the headunit would sense something wrong and reduce its sigal power, mainly in the low frequencies, there for cutting the sub out.

Anyway, I finally found a remote power line that worked and now it freakin rocks! 500 watts of D class JL power with Bass PEQ going to a single JL 12w3V2. Holy crap *****!!!!

Thanks for everyones help.....

MrWigggles

I am glad you got your systeme working.

I would like to clarify. The signals going to the Bose amp ARE speaker level. Those same signal power the 4 speaker sets on the non-Bose system.

Good luck. Happy booming.

-Mr. Wigggles

mikeb

AWESOME
good news

Unser

can you plz identify where you're getting the remote turn on from? I could not find any and connected it to an IGN wire at the fuse box.
Thanks

Dugless

I ran a fused line from the cigarette lighter leed, it works fine.

mikeb

dugless
how about some pics

Dugless

Pics.....


https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...threadid=12627

mikeb

thanks