dimigon

Wondering if someone might be able to give me a little bit of advice or suggest a few things. I am going to be installing subs on my stock Bose, although for now I am going to cheap out on the subs/amp until I get some more money, to add better subs and components. (I am eventually looking towards (2) 4080 boxes and (2) 10w6v2's and a JL 1000/1)

I already have (2) Rockford Fosgate Punch P2 Subs ( P210S4 )
Power Handling
-RMS: 200 Watts
-Peak: 400 Watts

ZEnclosures Sealed box

Audiocontrol 6XS LOC

Now I do not want to cheap out on the wiring since I am going to be upgrading in the future, could anyone recommend a good Amp Kit, and RCA's to connect to the LOC.

Also I am unsure as to which amp I should select for the subs I have, I was thinking: Rockford Fosgate Mono Car Amplifier (P325.1)
-Total Max Power: 975W
-2 OHM Output Power - Full Range 325 Watts
-4 OHM Output Power - Full Range 175 Watts

Any other recommendations would be appreciated, thanks.

lurch519

if i decoded the model number correctly, that amp should be fine for the subs you have.

as to wiring, it all really depends on total system power you are expecting when you are done, but i would probably say do a 0 guage amp kit, preferrably the kicker pkd1, which has some of the best wire i have ever used in car audio install

WikkedOne

you know I respect you lurch, but 0 gauge is just overkill. Just makes it harder to run and I some amps won't even accept a 0 gauge.. Even with the 1000 watt he is looking at and another amp for interior he shouldn't need any more than 4 gauge.

I'm using 4 gauge on my system (check the sig) with only a 60 amp fuse at the battery and a dedicated line to the batt for ground and never had a problem

lurch519

you also probably dont push the system that hard. im running dual 0 guage in mine, and had no problems running it down the passenger side. (btw, im not knocking your or your system wikked)

think of your power wire like a water hose, and your amps like a fire you need to put out. the bigger the fire, the bigger the hose you will want to put out the fire,

another good analogy would be to think of your power wire like a fuel line in a car, and the amps as the motor.

yes, you could probably run a race motor making 1000 hp off of the stock fuel line, but the first time you want to mash the throttle, bad things will start happening.

im not telling anyone what they "have" to do, but what they "should" do.

Juice

iTrader: (1)

Dual 0 gauge!! Damn thats crazy
what are you running lurch?

dimigon

Thank you guys, and Lurch, the specifications to the amp can be found here:

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...US&series_id=6

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

yes, I would like to know as well....


And there is no reason what-so-ever to run 0awg wire. Would you bring a firehose to put out a cigarette? 4awg is plenty. www.knukonceptz.com Don't let the price fool you my son. Everything they sell is a steal for the price.

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

as a firefighter, i can tell you YES, WE WOULD.... but we would also bring gasoline and use it first

G3tR3DDY2GR3DDY

iTrader: (8)

i think you chose well on the LOC, 325.1 one is a great choice, and good future insights on the 4080's and JL setup. With those p2's i would say 4 gauge would be plenty on that amp and plenty for the JL as well. As for the rca's get some nice braided tsunami cables... like 40 bucks but you can tell a difference. As long as your gain is right on the LOC and you wire everything correctly both systems should sound great. I messed up with my setup and wired the LOC to the preamp signals. Dont do that. LOC the speaker lvl or tap the preamps with rca-speakerwire connectors. I dont think the rockford amp has high lvl input so since you have the LOC your good to go. i got a good bit of 4ga. wire in the basement from my project if you want some for atleast the ground or something...

dimigon

It's alright, thanks though, I am also considering if I should do some dynamatting too.

lurch519

how long have you been doing car audio installation professionally?

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

2 and half years professionally. Why? You gonna flame me because I didn't tell him to do two runs of double aught for a 400WRMS amp?

lurch519

no not at all, but as stated in his first post, hes planning on doing a 1000/1 and i would also assume that hes going to be doing a 4 channel amp as well since hes got the 6xs. why do the work twice.

and right now i have double 0 running my system, with 1 each alpine pdx-2.150 to each door. i am planning on running 1 or 2 pdx 1.1000 and another 2.150 to finish out my system

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Fair enough. Guess I skimmed over that part. 0awg would not be that unreasonable.

And holy hell man. Excessive much? Is this a show car? Because, costs aside, I couldn't justify that for a daily driver. That many amps might win you points from the judges, but who would spend $2,400 on a component set for casual use? Even if you're loaded, it just seems like a waste. Five seperate amps to get you to and from work? Know what I mean? And second, I hope a high output alternator would be figured into the tab.

lurch519

absolutely on the alternator. i just like having good sound

front doors i have the diamond d9 components

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

True. I take it your shop offers Diamond? Surely you didn't blow $750+ on them....

You think Bill Gates literally wipes his *** with $100 bills? Doubtful, because toilet paper does the job almost as well and costs 1/1000 of the price. If there's one thing I've learned in the car audio industry, it's that once you spend a little chunk of change of a piece of equipment.... you must spend exponentially more for a marginally better piece of equipment. $300-$400 was/is the most I would ever spend on a component set. I think you and I both know you can buy some AWESOME sets for that price if you shop right. To even take a baby step up from them.... you're spending $700-$800 easy. And to bump it up from there? HA! $2k area....$10k Rainbow reference anyone?