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Speaker sizes, harnesses, kits, etc: audio install reference

Old 10-17-2005, 11:12 AM
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Speaker sizes, harnesses, kits, etc: audio install reference

Please post feedback (if anything is unclear, incorrect or you have stuff to add) and I'll keep updating this post w/ the latest. All of this is related to US models. Hopefully, all others will be the same, but please post any discrepancies.

---------------------------------

Speaker sizes & specs:

base radio:
  • front mids: 6x8", hole is 5x375" x 7.625" (door photo)
    • 5x7" speakers will also work, it's the same mounting holes as 6x8"
  • front tweeters: 1" (photo in sailpod)
  • rear mids: 6x9" (photo)
  • all speakers are 4ohm impedance
Bose radio:
Front mounting depth: 3" safe, about 3.125" to glass (distance to window glass. deeper speakers can probably be mounted with a baffle)

Head unit:

Stock car harness is J-01:Aftermarket harnesses:
  • doesn't look like there's "official" harness yet (from Metra or Scosche), but you can use any J-01 harness (e.g. one for 2003 Proteges)
  • existing harnesses are missing a lot of pins from the top 2 center rows (the smaller pins)
  • harness, into car:
    • Scosche MA03B (only has 2 pins in top 2 rows)
    • Metra Turbowire 70-7903 (has 3 pins in top 2 rows)
  • reverse harness, into radio:
    • Scosche MA03RB (only has 2 pins in top 2 rows)
    • Best Kits BHO7902 (only has 2 pins in top 2 rows)
    • Metra Turbowire 71-7903 (not sure about pins)
Stock headunit:Aftermarket headunit:Installation:

Amp installation:
Front speaker installation:
Rear speaker installation:

Door/system wire colors:
  • base radio:
    • Door left: +R -W (tweeter same)
    • Door right +W/B -Y/R (tweeter same)
    • Rear left +V -P
    • Rear right +W/L -B/L
  • Bose radio:
    • Door tweet left +R -W (door speaker connected direct to amp)
    • Door tweet right +W/R -Y/R (door speaker connected direct to amp)
    • Centre mid +L/B -G/Y
    • Rear left +V -P (tweeters are co-axial, same colors)
    • Rear right +W/L -B/L (tweeters are co-axial, same colors)
Subwoofer/amp installation examples/guides:

Last edited by Astral; 05-15-2009 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 10-17-2005, 11:13 AM
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Unfortunately, I have to get back to work, I'm sure more information could be added... any feedback is welcome, or any suggestions for extra info. In particular, I'm lacking any info on aftermarket headunits.
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Old 10-17-2005, 01:02 PM
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Here is something to add that we have found...... the doors like to fill up with water. We found this out as we had fully modified the door panel. The stock speaker grill is now a rotor shape. Instead of making a mdf baffle in his door, we used clear plexiglass and lit it up with a suspension lighting kit (that was waterproof thank god). So imagine our surprise when the customer calls and he says that the door is full of water and he can see it rising on his nice new Focal speaker. So you might want to do a water test on your door, it seems the water is coming in up near the side mirror. Take the door panel off, take the factory speaker out and put the hose on it for a bit.

Here on Vancouver Island we get a crapload of rain at this time of the year and it stays until about April. The Mazda dealer has now identified this as a problem on this vehicle. So check your speakers, do not use mdf for baffles in the door of this car, use plexiglass or black abs.
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Old 10-17-2005, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by forbidden
Here is something to add that we have found...... the doors like to fill up with water.
Thanks for the info! I updated the thread w/ a point to your post for the "whole story", hopefully this should be enough.
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Old 10-17-2005, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by djseto
"Bose headunit: has line-level outputs before amps, but requires summing of all channels, e.g. using AudioControl LC-6"

What you mean is that you need a differential line converter here right? Doesnt have to be the AudioControl, but has to be a diff. line converter right? Also...the best place to add a converter to the Bose is before the amp or after?
Hmm, I think I was somewhat wrong there. Looks like Bose has speaker-level outputs anyway.

AFAIK, it has to be a line converter than can sum the inputs. Add converter before the amp, as per this guidance from forbidden on the use of AudioControl 6XS.

I'll update the main post to clear this up a little bit.

Last edited by Astral; 10-17-2005 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 10-17-2005, 03:48 PM
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updates:
- added a little more info about Bose LOC stuff,
- added some links to DIY sub box installs,
- added links to photos of the car's radio harness on a Bose car
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Old 10-17-2005, 03:57 PM
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Excellent....

A much needed reference - thanks Astral!

Stickied.

S
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Old 10-17-2005, 10:31 PM
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great info

That's great info.
I'm building my system slowly but surely. Now I know some more options for my speaker replacement.

Thanks.
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Old 10-18-2005, 11:09 PM
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Thanks! Glad it's helpful!

updated w/ door/system wire colors, as per StealthTL
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Old 10-22-2005, 07:09 PM
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JL Audio setup 12" sub is all you need with the stock radio!

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Old 10-23-2005, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by djseto
Astral: add this link https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ht=line+output

looks like you should tap after the bose amp.
djseto, I already have a link in the reference post to a conclusion of that thread many pages down. CactusGeorge's mistake was tapping the HU outputs directly into the amp's RCA inputs (not speaker-level inputs). This caused the overtaxing of the HU. When he plugged the HU outputs into an LOC, then everything was dandy. See the conclusion from this thread.

AFAIK the output level from the HU changes with the volume ****, but maybe someone can confirm for me... I don't think that the HU volume **** controls the amp's "gain" separately or anything like that.
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Old 11-03-2005, 10:39 PM
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radio and ac display does not work after removing thr radio and then reinstalling, is there something i forget to do?
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Old 11-04-2005, 09:35 AM
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EDIT: Let me clarify. For the BOSE:

The front tweeters are 2"
The front center is 3" not 4" (Although you can make a 4" fit)

Astral,

Thanks for the FAQ.

-Mr. Wigggles

Last edited by MrWigggles; 11-04-2005 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 11-05-2005, 12:38 PM
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Right now, AFAIK, the only options for aftermarket HUs and keeping your A/C controls and display are to keep the stock HU in the car (at least portions of it) and make sure that the proper wiring still goes to those controls after the aftermarket HU is installed. In my case, you can go to this thread to see how I did my install. The wiring runs through the center console back to the A/C controls and LED readout. Eight months now and no problems with it. Devoid installed the same deck as I did, but they did something a little different with his stock HU. You'd have to ask him.
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Old 11-06-2005, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by MrWigggles
EDIT: Let me clarify. For the BOSE:

The front tweeters are 2"
The front center is 3" not 4" (Although you can make a 4" fit)

Astral,

Thanks for the FAQ.

-Mr. Wigggles
Wiggles, thanks for the info! Updated. I am now only missing rear Bose tweeter size.
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Old 11-06-2005, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Astral
djseto, I already have a link in the reference post to a conclusion of that thread many pages down. CactusGeorge's mistake was tapping the HU outputs directly into the amp's RCA inputs (not speaker-level inputs). This caused the overtaxing of the HU. When he plugged the HU outputs into an LOC, then everything was dandy. See the conclusion from this thread.

AFAIK the output level from the HU changes with the volume ****, but maybe someone can confirm for me... I don't think that the HU volume **** controls the amp's "gain" separately or anything like that.
Yes the output does change BEFORE the amp. The output does get up to about 3 volts so there is PLENTY of signal before the amp.

-Mr. Wigggles
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Old 11-07-2005, 04:25 PM
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Hi

Bose back tweeters are 2"



Leo
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Old 11-07-2005, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by leonardo
Bose back tweeters are 2"
Thanks, updated!
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