Speaker sizes, harnesses, kits, etc: audio install reference
 

Please post feedback (if anything is unclear, incorrect or you have stuff to add) and I'll keep updating this post w/ the latest. All of this is related to US models. Hopefully, all others will be the same, but please post any discrepancies.

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Speaker sizes & specs:

base radio:

• front mids: 6x8", hole is 5x375" x 7.625" (door photo)
  • 5x7" speakers will also work, it's the same mounting holes as 6x8"
• front tweeters: 1" (photo in sailpod)
• rear mids: 6x9" (photo)
• all speakers are 4ohm impedance

Bose radio:

• front mids: 9", hole is about 8.4" diameter (door photo, photos of speaker and speaker opening & more)
  • impedance: .5 ohms
• front tweeters: 2"
  • impedance: 4 ohms
• rear mids: 6x9" (photo)
  • impedance: 2 ohms
• rear tweeters: 2" (photo, another rear tweeters & mids photo)
  • impedance: 4 ohms
• front center speaker: 3", but you can make a 4" fit (photo)
  • impedance: 4 ohms

Front mounting depth: 3" safe, about 3.125" to glass (distance to window glass. deeper speakers can probably be mounted with a baffle)

Head unit:

Stock car harness is J-01:

• service manual's PIN-out
• good info on PIN-out and wire colors
• dimming behavior and some other pin/harness info
• harness photos on a car w/ Bose: photo 1, photo 2

Aftermarket harnesses:

• doesn't look like there's "official" harness yet (from Metra or Scosche), but you can use any J-01 harness (e.g. one for 2003 Proteges)
• existing harnesses are missing a lot of pins from the top 2 center rows (the smaller pins)
• harness, into car:
  • Scosche MA03B (only has 2 pins in top 2 rows)
  • Metra Turbowire 70-7903 (has 3 pins in top 2 rows)
• reverse harness, into radio:
  • Scosche MA03RB (only has 2 pins in top 2 rows)
  • Best Kits BHO7902 (only has 2 pins in top 2 rows)
  • Metra Turbowire 71-7903 (not sure about pins)

Stock headunit:

• base headunit:
  • requires line-output converter for use with RCA inputs on amps
• Bose headunit:
  • the signal into the amp is flat. Out of the Bose amp, not at all flat. So tap into the signal before the amp.
  • Requires a line output converter that can sum of all the channels, e.g. using AudioControl LC-6.
  • Some guidance on hooking up an LOC. Also, instructions on tapping into the inputs to the rear amp
• Both HUs output differential speaker-level signals. Do not hook the HU signal directly to an amp's line-level RCA inputs. Instead, connect to a line output converter first or ensure that amp has speaker-level inputs. Otherwise, frying of HU may occur.
• Some HU output analysis and LOC discussion

Aftermarket headunit:

• Removing stock headunit breaks A/C and heater operation
• The following headunit replacement kits are available:
  • Metra dash kit (some notes)
  • Corksport RX-8 Stereo Replacement kit
  • Kanatech RX-8 Car AV Installation Set, can be ordered via Japanparts (this is same as Corksport's kit)

Installation:

Amp installation:

• What is a proper ground?
• Running amp power through firewall behind washer fluid (shorest path)
• Running amp power through rubber grommet on driver's side (longer, but no drilling)
• Remote turn-on: How to tap into accessory plug. (The Bose amp has no remote turn-on available, only constant battery voltage.)

Front speaker installation:

• How to remove front door panels
• Base stereo speaker replacement, with Focal Polyglass 165V2 6.5" components
• Avoid using MDF for baffles, as water tends to build up during heavy rain. Better to use Lexan or black ABS plastic (source)
• How to run speaker wire into the doors through the Molex (additional photos from an 8)

Rear speaker installation:

• DIY: How to replace rear 6x9 speakers (includes rear seat removal)

Door/system wire colors:

• base radio:
  • Door left: +R -W (tweeter same)
  • Door right +W/B -Y/R (tweeter same)
  • Rear left +V -P
  • Rear right +W/L -B/L
• Bose radio:
  • Door tweet left +R -W (door speaker connected direct to amp)
  • Door tweet right +W/R -Y/R (door speaker connected direct to amp)
  • Centre mid +L/B -G/Y
  • Rear left +V -P (tweeters are co-axial, same colors)
  • Rear right +W/L -B/L (tweeters are co-axial, same colors)

Subwoofer/amp installation examples/guides:

• DIY: Custom Sub Box Install (Two Alpine 10" Type-Es in a custom box with a 350W Alpine amp)
• DIY: Fiberglass Speaker Enclosure Dual 12" Orion xtr pro subs, Orion 900 amp, documents entire install and fiberglass work

Unfortunately, I have to get back to work, I'm sure more information could be added... any feedback is welcome, or any suggestions for extra info. In particular, I'm lacking any info on aftermarket headunits.

Here is something to add that we have found...... the doors like to fill up with water. We found this out as we had fully modified the door panel. The stock speaker grill is now a rotor shape. Instead of making a mdf baffle in his door, we used clear plexiglass and lit it up with a suspension lighting kit (that was waterproof thank god). So imagine our surprise when the customer calls and he says that the door is full of water and he can see it rising on his nice new Focal speaker. So you might want to do a water test on your door, it seems the water is coming in up near the side mirror. Take the door panel off, take the factory speaker out and put the hose on it for a bit.

Here on Vancouver Island we get a crapload of rain at this time of the year and it stays until about April. The Mazda dealer has now identified this as a problem on this vehicle. So check your speakers, do not use mdf for baffles in the door of this car, use plexiglass or black abs.

Thanks for the info! I updated the thread w/ a point to your post for the "whole story", hopefully this should be enough.

"Bose headunit: has line-level outputs before amps, but requires summing of all channels, e.g. using AudioControl LC-6"

What you mean is that you need a differential line converter here right? Doesnt have to be the AudioControl, but has to be a diff. line converter right? Also...the best place to add a converter to the Bose is before the amp or after?

Hmm, I think I was somewhat wrong there. Looks like Bose has speaker-level outputs anyway.

AFAIK, it has to be a line converter than can sum the inputs. Add converter before the amp, as per this guidance from forbidden on the use of AudioControl 6XS.

I'll update the main post to clear this up a little bit.

updates:
- added a little more info about Bose LOC stuff,
- added some links to DIY sub box installs,
- added links to photos of the car's radio harness on a Bose car

Excellent....
 

A much needed reference - thanks Astral!

Stickied. :)

S

great info
 

That's great info.
I'm building my system slowly but surely. Now I know some more options for my speaker replacement.

Thanks.

Thanks! Glad it's helpful! :)

updated w/ door/system wire colors, as per StealthTL

Hmm..Soundgates(www.soundgate.com) Application guide says the LOC should be installed AFTER the factory amp on the RX-8 for stock and Bose systems. Doesnt seem right to me. I emailed their tech support for a confirmation. anyone know for sure?

Soundgates Tech support said to add a LOC AFTER the amp....hmm...

This was his response when I said that a test CD was used and that it was confirmed that the signal was flat before the factory amp:

I know you'll get a flat response there but it needs to be tested to
see if
the output voltage changes with the volume knob if it does you could
use a
LOCB.2 if not you have to go after the amps.
Best Regards
Joe Hobart
Technical Support Coordinator, Soundgate

ph: 307-674-4707
fx: 307-674-4819
J_hobart@soundgate.com
www.soundgate.com

Astral: add this link https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ht=line+output

looks like you should tap after the bose amp.

JL Audio setup 12" sub is all you need with the stock radio!
 

umm...how is that post suppose to help?

djseto, I already have a link in the reference post to a conclusion of that thread many pages down. CactusGeorge's mistake was tapping the HU outputs directly into the amp's RCA inputs (not speaker-level inputs). This caused the overtaxing of the HU. When he plugged the HU outputs into an LOC, then everything was dandy. See the conclusion from this thread.

AFAIK the output level from the HU changes with the volume knob, but maybe someone can confirm for me... I don't think that the HU volume knob controls the amp's "gain" separately or anything like that.

The guys at soundgate said if the output level changes at the HU going into the amp, you can tap it before the amp, but you have to buy a more expensive LOC. But since the signal is full range going to the rear speakers, he said tapping if after with the cheaper LOC makes sense.

radio and ac display does not work after removing thr radio and then reinstalling, is there something i forget to do?

EDIT: Let me clarify. For the BOSE:

The front tweeters are 2"
The front center is 3" not 4" (Although you can make a 4" fit)

Astral,

Thanks for the FAQ.

-Mr. Wigggles

Right now, AFAIK, the only options for aftermarket HUs and keeping your A/C controls and display are to keep the stock HU in the car (at least portions of it) and make sure that the proper wiring still goes to those controls after the aftermarket HU is installed. In my case, you can go to this thread to see how I did my install. The wiring runs through the center console back to the A/C controls and LED readout. Eight months now and no problems with it. Devoid installed the same deck as I did, but they did something a little different with his stock HU. You'd have to ask him.

Wiggles, thanks for the info! Updated. I am now only missing rear Bose tweeter size.

Yes the output does change BEFORE the amp. The output does get up to about 3 volts so there is PLENTY of signal before the amp.

-Mr. Wigggles

Hi

Bose back tweeters are 2"

http://img311.imageshack.us/img311/9...ehinten3fe.jpg

Leo

Thanks, updated!