Post pictures of front speaker pls!
#1
Post pictures of front speaker pls!
Hi friends,
I wonder how the stuff behind the front door trims would look like. Can you post some pictures please? I want to know how the 9"s and the door amps look like and how the **** is fixed on the doors.
Thank you so much!
rgds
Tobi
I wonder how the stuff behind the front door trims would look like. Can you post some pictures please? I want to know how the 9"s and the door amps look like and how the **** is fixed on the doors.
Thank you so much!
rgds
Tobi
#2
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I find it hard to believe nobody has picx of the front speaker cavities. I'm sure there a few of us waiting for this info.
Speaking for myself alone; I'm looking at replacing the front cheap system speakers with MBQuart PCE216 (6.5 components). Also replacing the rear 6X(9's with MBQuart 2-way Diskus. Amplification will be an Alpine V12 FV540 (400 watt) and a Bazooka RS8A Powered Sub.
I"m dieing to see what's behind the door panels so I can decide whether to do the install myself or pay the price ($350) and let a semi-pro handle it. Ohh and I'm replacing the headunit with the mazda mp3 unit + 4 channel line output converter + monster XLN400-4C rca's + a good amp wiring kit and Dynamat. The only hold up is the front door cavity.
Speaking for myself alone; I'm looking at replacing the front cheap system speakers with MBQuart PCE216 (6.5 components). Also replacing the rear 6X(9's with MBQuart 2-way Diskus. Amplification will be an Alpine V12 FV540 (400 watt) and a Bazooka RS8A Powered Sub.
I"m dieing to see what's behind the door panels so I can decide whether to do the install myself or pay the price ($350) and let a semi-pro handle it. Ohh and I'm replacing the headunit with the mazda mp3 unit + 4 channel line output converter + monster XLN400-4C rca's + a good amp wiring kit and Dynamat. The only hold up is the front door cavity.
#3
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Originally posted by Pekoe
I find it hard to believe nobody has picx of the front speaker cavities. I'm sure there a few of us waiting for this info.
Speaking for myself alone; I'm looking at replacing the front cheap system speakers with MBQuart PCE216 (6.5 components). Also replacing the rear 6X(9's with MBQuart 2-way Diskus. Amplification will be an Alpine V12 FV540 (400 watt) and a Bazooka RS8A Powered Sub.
I"m dieing to see what's behind the door panels so I can decide whether to do the install myself or pay the price ($350) and let a semi-pro handle it. Ohh and I'm replacing the headunit with the mazda mp3 unit + 4 channel line output converter + monster XLN400-4C rca's + a good amp wiring kit and Dynamat. The only hold up is the front door cavity.
I find it hard to believe nobody has picx of the front speaker cavities. I'm sure there a few of us waiting for this info.
Speaking for myself alone; I'm looking at replacing the front cheap system speakers with MBQuart PCE216 (6.5 components). Also replacing the rear 6X(9's with MBQuart 2-way Diskus. Amplification will be an Alpine V12 FV540 (400 watt) and a Bazooka RS8A Powered Sub.
I"m dieing to see what's behind the door panels so I can decide whether to do the install myself or pay the price ($350) and let a semi-pro handle it. Ohh and I'm replacing the headunit with the mazda mp3 unit + 4 channel line output converter + monster XLN400-4C rca's + a good amp wiring kit and Dynamat. The only hold up is the front door cavity.
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Sure. It simply harnesses the amplified signal from the speaker outputs of the stock headunit e.g. you wouldn't want to amplify an already amplified signal as a general rule.
Here's an article describing the 2 channel model:
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-...ps.html?page=4
I am considered something like the 4 channel model listed below which would keep headunit fade functionality intact:
http://www.soundgate.com/products/le...hing/index.htm
Here's an article describing the 2 channel model:
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-...ps.html?page=4
I am considered something like the 4 channel model listed below which would keep headunit fade functionality intact:
http://www.soundgate.com/products/le...hing/index.htm
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Kev
My apologies for the informational section of the previous reply. Should have realized you looking for model #'s only. Didn't mean to take on a dimunitive tone there. Perhaps someone else will benefit from the definition.
I did manage to get more specifics on the unit I will be installing:
http://www.soundoffaudio.com/item.cfm/id/1331 (sells for $26 usd in store)
I got to thinking this morning (oddly enough) and I *hope* the sport package comes with 6.5's in front already. That would save the added expense of having to get spacer rings fabricated and dare I say it - the entire install (I don't see a reason to pay $350 in labor for a bit of wiring and a simple amp install.
My apologies for the informational section of the previous reply. Should have realized you looking for model #'s only. Didn't mean to take on a dimunitive tone there. Perhaps someone else will benefit from the definition.
I did manage to get more specifics on the unit I will be installing:
http://www.soundoffaudio.com/item.cfm/id/1331 (sells for $26 usd in store)
I got to thinking this morning (oddly enough) and I *hope* the sport package comes with 6.5's in front already. That would save the added expense of having to get spacer rings fabricated and dare I say it - the entire install (I don't see a reason to pay $350 in labor for a bit of wiring and a simple amp install.
#6
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Originally posted by Pekoe
I find it hard to believe nobody has picx of the front speaker cavities. I'm sure there a few of us waiting for this info.
...I"m dieing to see what's behind the door panels so I can decide whether to do the install myself or pay the price ($350) and let a semi-pro handle it...The only hold up is the front door cavity.
I find it hard to believe nobody has picx of the front speaker cavities. I'm sure there a few of us waiting for this info.
...I"m dieing to see what's behind the door panels so I can decide whether to do the install myself or pay the price ($350) and let a semi-pro handle it...The only hold up is the front door cavity.
#7
VW coulda had it...
I have my door panels off right now, and shot some pictures this morning on my install of some 6-1/2" components.
However, they aren't great pictures to begin with, (via DV camera) and I tried numerous times today, but can't get my work computer (with firewire card onboard) to recognize the f*%!^king camera!
I'll try again tomorrow, and send a couple in if I can.
Incidentally, non-Bose fronts are 5x7's, (or 6X8's?) and the same cavity/mount is used for the Bose 9" after a larger hole is cut in it. It looked like a person could install 8" drivers, as long as they aren't too deep.
The depth limit (before interfering with the window after rolling it down) is about 3", but don't quote me on that yet. I'll try to elaborate on this after I find my notes.
However, they aren't great pictures to begin with, (via DV camera) and I tried numerous times today, but can't get my work computer (with firewire card onboard) to recognize the f*%!^king camera!
I'll try again tomorrow, and send a couple in if I can.
Incidentally, non-Bose fronts are 5x7's, (or 6X8's?) and the same cavity/mount is used for the Bose 9" after a larger hole is cut in it. It looked like a person could install 8" drivers, as long as they aren't too deep.
The depth limit (before interfering with the window after rolling it down) is about 3", but don't quote me on that yet. I'll try to elaborate on this after I find my notes.
#8
Hi KreiskolbenmotorManiac!
thank you so much. Pictures haven't to be damn big or ultra high quality. We do not want to win a photo contest, right?!
I am just happy that someone shot pictures at all. Really looking forward to see them
Thank you!
Tobias
thank you so much. Pictures haven't to be damn big or ultra high quality. We do not want to win a photo contest, right?!
I am just happy that someone shot pictures at all. Really looking forward to see them
Thank you!
Tobias
#9
VW coulda had it...
Well, so much for the DV stills idea. I simply cannot get the computer to recognize the firewire device. It has been flaky in the past; this time, I tried everything I could.
I did get a couple shots with good 'ol chemical photography today, I'll try to get pictures developed/scanned/posted Sunday evening.
Sorry about the delay.
I did get a couple shots with good 'ol chemical photography today, I'll try to get pictures developed/scanned/posted Sunday evening.
Sorry about the delay.
#10
VW coulda had it...
Ok, if I can stay logged in...
Here are a couple pictures of my front speaker install. I hope these clarify things a bit.
The photos are sort of an afterthought; I didn't document the process step-by-step.
Here are a couple pictures of my front speaker install. I hope these clarify things a bit.
The photos are sort of an afterthought; I didn't document the process step-by-step.
#11
VW coulda had it...
I don't necessarily endorse these speakers. I wish I had gone with Alpine type R or Pioneer rev series components. Part of the reason I chose Ultimate Cuprics was the supposed high efficiency: their specs don't mean diddley.
As an example, 93dB is probably with the crossover set at +3 setting, I set mine at -6 and they still sound a little bright to me.
As an example, 93dB is probably with the crossover set at +3 setting, I set mine at -6 and they still sound a little bright to me.
#12
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KKM......so whats your impression? Did you just replace the fronts? Does it sound much better?
Also.....did you need to cut anthing to get the 6 1/2's in there?
looks great BTW.
Also.....did you need to cut anthing to get the 6 1/2's in there?
looks great BTW.
#13
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You guys should consider Focal seperates. I know that everyone thinks that they are expensive but they also have a lower less expensive line that is easily comparable to any other manufacturers main lines in price yet still outdoes them in sound. I can get a set of 6 1/2" Focal seperates for way under $200! You can't beat the sound of this system for twice the price with another manufacturer. Focal does not make a single crap speaker line or speaker. It is their upper line that wins more championships than any other speaker. How much are those Alpines? I bet they are way more and don't sound as good. I can get the specs on any Focal driver as well so I could even design a proper enclosure for a 6 1/2" in the doors! You'd hear bass out of the doors that you didn't know was possible.
I need to just market the complete system as a bolt in kit for a set price. It needs to have a name like Bose Buster or something along those lines.
I need to just market the complete system as a bolt in kit for a set price. It needs to have a name like Bose Buster or something along those lines.
#14
Hey KKM,
thank you for posting the pix. I guess you do not have some with the factory speakers, right?! ;-)
Well, I bed the Bose 9"s will be that big like the adapter plates you made, right? Are they made of alloy?
What material is the black wall? Rubber foam or plastic?
Plenty of space to mount big Midwoofers. I fear the only problem will be mountig depth not to scratch the windows. ;-)
Maybe some with neodymium.
I fear your problem with the highs can't be done with the crossover settings. That's a common problem of the special car acoustic / mounting place. A quite narrow part (let's say around 10k) will be too loud and that's make you going wild when listening a longer period. With the crossover, you can only make the whole tweeter playing more quiet, but the peak stays.
Without pc measurement system that will be a really hard job to elimiate (with parametric eq). But the result would be fantastic, believe me. Very detailed high's, nothing going on your nerves, just like the original. :-)
rgds
Tobi
thank you for posting the pix. I guess you do not have some with the factory speakers, right?! ;-)
Well, I bed the Bose 9"s will be that big like the adapter plates you made, right? Are they made of alloy?
What material is the black wall? Rubber foam or plastic?
Plenty of space to mount big Midwoofers. I fear the only problem will be mountig depth not to scratch the windows. ;-)
Maybe some with neodymium.
I fear your problem with the highs can't be done with the crossover settings. That's a common problem of the special car acoustic / mounting place. A quite narrow part (let's say around 10k) will be too loud and that's make you going wild when listening a longer period. With the crossover, you can only make the whole tweeter playing more quiet, but the peak stays.
Without pc measurement system that will be a really hard job to elimiate (with parametric eq). But the result would be fantastic, believe me. Very detailed high's, nothing going on your nerves, just like the original. :-)
rgds
Tobi
#15
VW coulda had it...
I've never heard Focals, but I'm aware the company makes very accurate and excellent quality speakers. I guess I chose the Cuprics partially based on price, ($100.00) and they looked good on paper.
Cast aluminum frames, alloy cone, high sensitivity, (I'm only running the head unit's amplification) blah, blah, etc., despite the wiser part of me telling me the only important thing is how they actually sound. Besides, the build quality (castings, soldering, plastic molding, etc.) of the Cuprics is not too great anyway.
Actually though, they are a huge improvemnt over the stock 5x7's. They are lacking in low bass, but the bass that is there is tight. Highs are pretty good, but can be a little harsh depending on source material. Maybe could use more midrange; I do think top-quality co-axials would sound more "integrated".
I did have to do a little trimming on the hard plastic (possibly fiber reinforced?) to accommodate the shape of the round driver. The aluminum plate you see is .063" thick; I had it plasma cut at work. The mounting holes for the plate are where the Bose 9" would bolt to. (using a larger hole cut out of the box)
My first choice would have been to go with 8" midbass drivers, and RX-8-Tobi has a good point in finding something with neodymium magnets to reduce depth. However, keeping lower costs in mind, there isn't a lot available. I found some inexpensive Lanzar 8" woofers on the web, but decided to simplify things, and get a component package. The Alpine Type-R's in the back provide pretty decent bass.
Sorry, I don't have pictures of the stock 5x7 speakers in place. They're 'nuthin fancy.
Cast aluminum frames, alloy cone, high sensitivity, (I'm only running the head unit's amplification) blah, blah, etc., despite the wiser part of me telling me the only important thing is how they actually sound. Besides, the build quality (castings, soldering, plastic molding, etc.) of the Cuprics is not too great anyway.
Actually though, they are a huge improvemnt over the stock 5x7's. They are lacking in low bass, but the bass that is there is tight. Highs are pretty good, but can be a little harsh depending on source material. Maybe could use more midrange; I do think top-quality co-axials would sound more "integrated".
I did have to do a little trimming on the hard plastic (possibly fiber reinforced?) to accommodate the shape of the round driver. The aluminum plate you see is .063" thick; I had it plasma cut at work. The mounting holes for the plate are where the Bose 9" would bolt to. (using a larger hole cut out of the box)
My first choice would have been to go with 8" midbass drivers, and RX-8-Tobi has a good point in finding something with neodymium magnets to reduce depth. However, keeping lower costs in mind, there isn't a lot available. I found some inexpensive Lanzar 8" woofers on the web, but decided to simplify things, and get a component package. The Alpine Type-R's in the back provide pretty decent bass.
Sorry, I don't have pictures of the stock 5x7 speakers in place. They're 'nuthin fancy.
#17
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I have some Orion 8" midbass drivers (not woofers) that only need 2 1/2" of mounting depth.
Some other choices would be the excellent woffers from Illusion Audio and also, god forbid, a Jensen line.
Oh yeah, I wasn't ******* your speakers. If you like them, that is all that matters.
Some other choices would be the excellent woffers from Illusion Audio and also, god forbid, a Jensen line.
Oh yeah, I wasn't ******* your speakers. If you like them, that is all that matters.
#21
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Originally posted by KKMmaniac
Kev or whomever: I'd be happy to share the Autocad file of the plate if you can make use of it.
Kev or whomever: I'd be happy to share the Autocad file of the plate if you can make use of it.
#22
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Re: Post pictures of front speaker pls!
Originally posted by RX-8-Tobi
Hi friends,
I wonder how the stuff behind the front door trims would look like. Can you post some pictures please? I want to know how the 9"s and the door amps look like and how the **** is fixed on the doors.
Thank you so much!
rgds
Tobi
Hi friends,
I wonder how the stuff behind the front door trims would look like. Can you post some pictures please? I want to know how the 9"s and the door amps look like and how the **** is fixed on the doors.
Thank you so much!
rgds
Tobi
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...threadid=17601
#23
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KKM,
I wanted to send you a p/m to ask this question but wasn't able to. Can you make up some plates for us to use and if you can how much would you charge. I have a pair of Focal Polyglass seperates and I want to use them to replace my Bose 9" speakers with. They are 5 1/4" and I believe that you can get the template for the speakers off the internet to use. If not I could get you one. Let me know what you can do.
I wanted to send you a p/m to ask this question but wasn't able to. Can you make up some plates for us to use and if you can how much would you charge. I have a pair of Focal Polyglass seperates and I want to use them to replace my Bose 9" speakers with. They are 5 1/4" and I believe that you can get the template for the speakers off the internet to use. If not I could get you one. Let me know what you can do.
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