OEM Nav Hood controls w/o custom PCB.
 

I figure with me leaving the 8 community in general I would share this for the many people who have asked me how I did it.

This is a crude and simple way to get the controls on the oem navigation hood to work if you're installing it in a non-nav car where the wiring harness doesn't exist.

You will need:

Philips Screwdriver.
Sodering Tool.
Wire, something like 14awg.
OEM Navigation Hood with the stock PCB intact.

Now we won't be working on the PCB inside the hood assembly itself, instead we are working on the smaller one where the wiring harness would plug in. What you will be doing is simply soldering some wires to this smaller PCB to just power the PCB as if the OEM wiring harness were plugged in. This involves soldering 3 wires, one for a ALWAYS ON (even when the key is not in) 12v source, one for SWITCHED 12v (cigarette lighter), and one for ground.

http://albertaguayo.com/images/NBDIY/1.JPG

2 Philips Screws hold this little assembly together.

http://albertaguayo.com/images/NBDIY/2.JPG

http://albertaguayo.com/images/NBDIY/3.JPG

As you wiggle it loose you will have to undo the ribbon cable and the other mini 4 pin connector. Don't pull too hard, examine the ribbon and you'll see you have to move the tabs to get it out.

http://albertaguayo.com/images/NBDIY/4.JPG

After you separate it set aside everything else and take apart the little thing. Bunch of screws.. and..

http://albertaguayo.com/images/NBDIY/5.JPG

The soldering tool I used.

http://albertaguayo.com/images/NBDIY/6.JPG

Now examine this diagram:

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...4&d=1215735180

We will be soldering wires to pin's 1O, 1P and 1Q. 1O will be for switched power. 1P will be for ground. 1Q will be for always on 12v.

In relation:

http://albertaguayo.com/images/NBDIY/7.JPG

Now you will see that I could not show you were pin 1P is. 1P is directly under 1O in the picture above. Therefore I had to solder the wire on the underside which you will see in a few steps.

Basic soldering now.. yes it's sloppy.

http://albertaguayo.com/images/NBDIY/10.JPG

Red wire is Pin 1Q (ALWAYS on power) and Grey wire is Pin 1O (switched power).

Now below, you can see how I had to solder Pin 1P for Ground. Very tight but doable.

http://albertaguayo.com/images/NBDIY/11.JPG

http://albertaguayo.com/images/NBDIY/12.JPG

Pretty much done..

http://albertaguayo.com/images/NBDIY/13.JPG

Folding around the ground wire the metal assembly won't fit.. so had to cut a little notch in the end..

http://albertaguayo.com/images/NBDIY/14.JPG

After resassembling everything in reverse order.. the finished product..

http://albertaguayo.com/images/NBDIY/15.JPG

That's it! Now you just run a wire from the battery, make sure you put in an inline fuse within 12 inches from the battery, to the red wire (1Q). 1P is straightforward and you can ground it anywhere, I did it in the passenger footwell behind the carpet or you can do it in the shifter area. The grey wire for pin 1O (switched power) you can tap the cigarette lighter harness, MAKE SURE YOU TAP THE RIGHT ONE.. it should only be powered when the key is switched!!

So when everything is wired up the Open and Tilt buttons should function as they do in an OEM install. The nav should also open and close itself if you had it open prior to removing the key, and vice versa.

If you would want to get the buttons to light up you would wire Pin 1V to the CIGARETTE LIGHTER BULB wire and 1X accordingly.

Any questions, feel free to ask!

nice write up..that's awesome dude. works perfect. I had lots of impressed people the past couple days :D

Nav Hood
 

does anyone know of a DIY on removing the nav hood (correctly)?

thanks
Keith

you mean getting the whole panel out of the dashboard?

it's pretty easy.

you remove the radio.

there are 2 screws holding the vents in place.. remove those and remove the vents.

then there are only 2 screws holding the nav panel in the front. once you remove those you have to CAREFULLY pull it up.. there are many clips holding it in place.

then you do the undo wiring harness and it's out!

Now that's dead sexy. I guess I can start considering modding a touchscreen into the nav hood after all. Man, you're gonna get me back into building car computers alzor!

This is exactly what i had been looking for! Perfect!!

Am i the only one looking at pin 1M and wondering under what conditions it goes hot?

Thank you VERY MUCH for your help!

Ha, soldering not your strong point? From what it looks like if you're going to do this (which I am in a few days) you'll need flux, because looks as if that solder does NOT want to stick at all.

does any1 have a guide to replacing the oem lcd screen with touch screen?

PM me. I'll tell you how I did it. It was harder than I thought it would be.

Do you think if I jump the illumination leads to my lilliput power leads I could preserve the stock on off functon or should I julmp the acc and b+ leads? I have everything soldered and reassembled, but I'm second guessing myself. Want the lilliput to power on when the hood is up and off when hood starts down.
What do you think?

That is not how you should go about doing that. You need a contact switch, I believe deanRx8, the guy who did the mac carPC did this. To give a simple explanation:

Two pieces of metal, one is attached to a wire leading to your source of power (ACC line probably), the other is attached to the lilliput power input.

Line up the contacts so when the hood is open at full (or any tilt points as well) the two pieces of metal touch, therefore completing the switch, but when it is down the connection is broken, therefore no power.

That is how this needs to be done, I'm not sure of what you are talking about doing.... but I wouldn't.

I was afraid of that... thanks

this method is soldering onto the backside of the harness plug socket, correct?

So, if i had the other side of the harness leading from the factory nav, I could just splice the wires in and snip all the others for the same result?

correct.

fixed pics.

bro alz0rz, thanks a million for fixing the pics!!!

You have saved me, this is exactly what I am going to do with my newly purchsed unit, it has troubled me for months since i got it without OEM cables!

By looking at the last pic with the finishing product, I am kinda confused with the soldered green/red/black cables on the bottom and the three cables on the top (read/yellow/black). Sorry for all this as I am not very technical for all these stuffs. My challenge is, I would like to wire these out of OEM PCB and connect DVD player and TV tunner. I understood from your instruction how how to solder the green/red/black wires to link the PCB for the foldable mechanism, but how do you wire the videos and power etc? could you please explain further?

I have also read from other thread mentioning it requires AV switcher or VGA input in order to connect OEM LCD to DVD player...etc what is this VGA input? and if i want reverse cam, do i just solder 1M? anything else?

Appreciate your kind assistance, Thanks alot mate.

any hope for the pics to go up again? im a bit stuck without them :(

can you fix the pics again alzorz? I still need to do my car pc lol

+1^

+1!!!

+1 :(

+1 :(

What kinda help are you looking for? I just recently wired mine up, maybe I could help?
it's still sitting on my table waiting on me to decide on what to put in it, but it has been tested and is fully functional right now.

What I was hoping for was to see if this was something I could actually do. I really hate the Garmin sitting on the dash. I wanted a model with a nav unit from the start, but when it came to buying I got a great deal on one without. So now I'm in a shape where I figure I'll have to add the hood. But I want it to work like the OEM. My main problem is that I don't really know that much. My only saving grace has been that I can follow instructions, which has helped when I work on my motorcycle.

I say all of that just to say what I was hoping for was to see if this was a fairly straight forward modification and what steps were involved.

I say this up front, I've not searched on this but, how much room is in hood once the factory screen is taken out? What can I reasonably expect to get in there?

Finally, would I be able to get this all to work with a bose radio?

I will do my best to add some pics and steps on what to do when I get home tonight.

I know it's a 7" screen but I do not have the exact measurements on me. I'll get them tonight for ya.

Sorry got caught up in some other stuff, but I can answer some questions now for ya,

rough measured it, 8 x 4 1/2 x 3/4 of space in there.

I just got a Samsung Galaxy 2 7.0 for mine, fits good, but I will probably have to modify the plug for it to fit perfect.

Removing the screen is very easy and straight forward, only need a philips, small flat head and maybe a knife...

I'll post some pics later on got some other stuff to do right now.

Hope I'm not thread jacking, just trying to help, but there are some pictures of the inside of the hood in my thread:
https://www.rx8club.com/interior-aud...tablet-237158/

Here is my progress so far, still got a good bit of work to put in, but it's getting there.


https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...4&d=1348454044

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...5&d=1348454044

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...6&d=1348454044

So I bought an ICS based 7" tablet today that I'm seriously considering breaking down and mounting in my OEM nav tray and shelve the JDM tray for a while.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200822103543&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160
I did the wiring mentioned here, and in a couple other threads, quite some time ago but haven't gotten any further with it.

1.3_LittersOfFurry

with your galaxy tab 7

if you power if off (with the button so the device is completely off)

what happens when you connect a charger while it's off?

does the device just start charging or does it start up into the OS?

thanks :)

I think this directed at me, just trying to help. When off and plugged into the charger my Huawei MediaPad simply charges and doesn't boot. I also have a Samsung phone and it does not boot when plugged into the charger, it just shows a charging screen.

thanks for the reply Daisun that's what i was thinking would happen, damn but as furry has the galaxy tab 7 and i plan to get the exact same tablet i was wondering / hoping it would power up when connected but i think i'm probably holding out on a lost cause on that front


I was going to get tasker to turn off the screen when the hood is down and when charging stops, tasker would power off the device entirely. to power it back on will require a button press (not hard to do with a small hole) but i was hoping to get it automated by the charging procedure.

I'll check it today when I get home.

That's going to be a no for powering on when plugged in, but I'll look around and see if there is a way to change that. :)

I also came up it a solution (that will probably only work for me) for recharging the tablet without killing the battery in the car, and without removing the tablet. I have a nice little 5 year old jumper pack with a USB charger built in to it. If need be I can throw the jumper on the passenger floor and let it charge the tablet over night, and then recharge the jumper the next day.

I had the same idea, i've got one too with 2 12v car charger ports on the side. still being able to start the tablet without pressing that button would be nicer but oh well i think using a tablet instead of a carpc is still a much nicer solution, so much less wiring.

Also a lot cheaper. ;)

https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...re.nomoarpowah

maybe you could try this? it worked on my galaxy note.

I would test it myself with the tab but haven't bought it yet :p

it gives you a screen when power is connected with a reboot option :D if it works, problem solved

Thats a really good find. Chainfire always has the most useful root apps, for Samsung devices at least.

I drilled a small hole to access the power button in hood just incase I need to reboot, you can't see it unless you're looking for it.

^ I was going to do the same for the power button.

Nice find on the app, I'll try it out today.

Just a heads up guys, I been lurking on tablet forums and I was warned that the battery could catch on fire if temps exceed 140*f. The cabin in my car reaches those temps in the summer, so I will be experimenting with how the tablet functions without the battery today.



Edit- It will not work without the battery. Starting to look into cooling ideas.

being in England i think this will be less of a worry to me :p

ah did that app work on the tablet?

Well, I haven't rooted the tablet... yet. I did root my phone last week (remember I'm new to android, just switch from about 4 years of iPhone, takes me a little while to learn lol). But I will give it a try sometime next week on my vacation.

As far as the battery heat issues go, I have only come up with 2 possible solutions so far.

1.) Try relocating the battery to the bottom of the dash behind the radio, where it has the best chance to survive.
2.) Install a small PC fan into the hood (bottom section where it makes that big square hole). And have it come on with the key.

1.3_LittersOfFurry I had a question about the tablet your using. Are you able to charge the table and access the USB at the same time. I'm thinking of using the OTG USB functionality of the laptop to attach to a hard drive that I can easily remove from the car. I was thinking of the Tab but I was not sure if lost the usb when it was charging.

Also thanks for the pics you posted. It has convinced me that can do this. I am now in the process of pulling all the parts together. I'm hoping by this weekend that I'll have the nav hood and can start working on gutting and wiring.

From my understanding the Tab 2 charges via the microUSB port. So you can't have both have a harddrive and a charger plugged in at the same time.

I used a Huawei Mediapad which had a separate charging port and microUSB port.

this is correct for the tab 2 it charges via the usb


and yep Daisun's build made me change my entire idea and go for a tablet instead of a carpc :)

so thanks from me too!

^ They are correct.

I'm pretty sure one could cook up a 3 way cable that supplies power to both devices and allows OTG...