My CarPuter installation
03-09-2005, 12:54 AM
#51
Originally Posted by Scalliwag
Where/how are you running this into the HU? If it is through the AUX how did you pull it off?
If you do a search for PIE in the audio forum, you will find plenty of info about it.
03-09-2005, 06:18 AM
#52
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Originally Posted by Tamas
The PIE plugs into the 16-pin CD changer socket on the back of the HU.
If you do a search for PIE in the audio forum, you will find plenty of info about it.
If you do a search for PIE in the audio forum, you will find plenty of info about it.
03-09-2005, 09:51 AM
#53
Originally Posted by Scalliwag
Everything I have read is that going through the AUX takes a convertor and the only guy I have found that has pulled this off is "Overload". I am on the waiting list for one
It has been available for a long time.
The only catch is that you need the newer HU PROM, which you may or may not already have.
Contact Thew (he is a user/vendor here) about how to determine if you have the newest flash and, if not, how to have it installed.
03-09-2005, 10:16 AM
#54
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I found the Alpine convertor but it looks like trying to just get a line-in convertor without goung through an Alpine is not really clear. Is this the one you are talking about? http://www.rx8garage.net/?page=shop/...f22d3018e4ebe1
03-09-2005, 10:29 AM
#56
I can help you with this, what year is your 8? do you know the build date?
PIE is great, chrystal clear audio and I've had it running since August of 2004, no problems whatsoever
I waited for much of the summer for Overload's aux-in I'm sure glad I didn't wait, I'd still be adding audio through an FM modulator which sounds like CRAP, especially since one or two people fried their HU installing Overload's aux-in
listen to mazda maniac:
get the PIE unit and the RCA cables and you are set, just find out your Firmware first before doing so to make sure you have 9.55 or higher
PIE is great, chrystal clear audio and I've had it running since August of 2004, no problems whatsoever
I waited for much of the summer for Overload's aux-in I'm sure glad I didn't wait, I'd still be adding audio through an FM modulator which sounds like CRAP, especially since one or two people fried their HU installing Overload's aux-in
listen to mazda maniac:
get the PIE unit and the RCA cables and you are set, just find out your Firmware first before doing so to make sure you have 9.55 or higher
03-09-2005, 11:13 AM
#57
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My dealer is going to update my firmware for free 
But I am going to go ahead and order this setup. It's a shame that the other guys are still in R&D mode on it.
So if I am reading this right, the RCA cable plugs to this box and not an Alpine unit correct? That's what I want Thanks guys!
But I am going to go ahead and order this setup. It's a shame that the other guys are still in R&D mode on it. So if I am reading this right, the RCA cable plugs to this box and not an Alpine unit correct? That's what I want
Thanks guys!
03-09-2005, 11:16 AM
#58
Originally Posted by truemagellen
...especially since one or two people fried their HU installing Overload's aux-in
I know OverLOAD said he can not take responsibility for any damage, but that was about installing the module incorrectly, not the module frying the electronics.
03-09-2005, 12:00 PM
#59
Originally Posted by Tamas
Care to elaborate on this? I have not heard about fried head units due to the AuxMod. Were there some posts here from owners who really got their HU damaged?
I know OverLOAD said he can not take responsibility for any damage, but that was about installing the module incorrectly, not the module frying the electronics.
I know OverLOAD said he can not take responsibility for any damage, but that was about installing the module incorrectly, not the module frying the electronics.
but really my guess is he didn't disconnect the battery first...so yes this is user error but at the same time the PIE is pretty much dummy proof and can be attached while the battery is connected although a very dumb idea since the HU is being pulled out
03-09-2005, 12:10 PM
#60
Doesn't the Overload Aux-In require disassembly of the HU? How could you even attempt that without taking it out of the car first? It would be pretty well un-powered at that point.
Still, always pull the negative power terminal on the battery when performing surgery on your car.
You wouldn't want surgery performed on yourself while still awake, would you?
Still, always pull the negative power terminal on the battery when performing surgery on your car.
You wouldn't want surgery performed on yourself while still awake, would you?
03-09-2005, 12:25 PM
#61
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Doesn't the Overload Aux-In require disassembly of the HU? How could you even attempt that without taking it out of the car first? It would be pretty well un-powered at that point.
Still, always pull the negative power terminal on the battery when performing surgery on your car.
You wouldn't want surgery performed on yourself while still awake, would you?
Still, always pull the negative power terminal on the battery when performing surgery on your car.
You wouldn't want surgery performed on yourself while still awake, would you?
but as for the aux in, from the pictures it is just a matter of sliding the unit where the tape deck area is, just pull the hu forward without even disconnection the back cables and insert the unit's connector into the tape plug
although it would be MUCH easier to take it out of the car you are right...besides it is fun to take the HU apart for the hell of it
in fact when installing the PIE I took apart the whole HU to see if I could stick a DVD drive where the tape blank is...and I must say with some work it is possible, but a PITA
03-11-2005, 10:10 AM
#62
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ive got a question, i really wanna get a carPC put into the car but im not sure which way is the best way to go as far as the LCD goes. Im thinking either to make it flip up like the OEM navi and make it look clean as the stock, or put it in around where the stereo is somehow...maybe move things around but this guys ride looks sick http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=35352
03-14-2005, 07:53 PM
#63
jeff,
is that a 7 or 8" screen????? i am on the same project, except i am putting a 2.4 mgz shuttle sff in the trunk. just got the nav tray from canzoomer last week.
how hard was the nav tray install??? havent found a diy for it and i have searched.
if there is one let me know. if not i will take lots of photos.
all i have left to buy is the screen and an inverter.
was going to stick a viewsonic airpanel in and do it wireless, but it is just two big.
beers
is that a 7 or 8" screen????? i am on the same project, except i am putting a 2.4 mgz shuttle sff in the trunk. just got the nav tray from canzoomer last week.
how hard was the nav tray install??? havent found a diy for it and i have searched.
if there is one let me know. if not i will take lots of photos.
all i have left to buy is the screen and an inverter.
was going to stick a viewsonic airpanel in and do it wireless, but it is just two big.
beers
Last edited by swoope; 03-14-2005 at 08:52 PM.
03-15-2005, 12:21 AM
#64
Its 7" - http://www.xenarc.com/
NAV tray was easy, I just used a Dremel. The instructions are totally in Japanese, but the pictograms are good and the scribe line is already there on the back of the OEM upper dash panel. Just cut and install.
Be carful using an inverter for an AC PC. They are electrically noisy and will degrade the picture and sound quality of the PC.
You are better off getting a DC - DC power supply.
NAV tray was easy, I just used a Dremel. The instructions are totally in Japanese, but the pictograms are good and the scribe line is already there on the back of the OEM upper dash panel. Just cut and install.
Be carful using an inverter for an AC PC. They are electrically noisy and will degrade the picture and sound quality of the PC.
You are better off getting a DC - DC power supply.
03-15-2005, 12:33 AM
#65
this is what i am looking at. as to the ac issue i was going to attack that with an old upc power supply.
thanks for the reply
beers
http://www.case-mod.com/store/produc...35929c8eaf01c1
thanks for the reply
beers
http://www.case-mod.com/store/produc...35929c8eaf01c1
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Its 7" - http://www.xenarc.com/
NAV tray was easy, I just used a Dremel. The instructions are totally in Japanese, but the pictograms are good and the scribe line is already there on the back of the OEM upper dash panel. Just cut and install.
Be carful using an inverter for an AC PC. They are electrically noisy and will degrade the picture and sound quality of the PC.
You are better off getting a DC - DC power supply.
NAV tray was easy, I just used a Dremel. The instructions are totally in Japanese, but the pictograms are good and the scribe line is already there on the back of the OEM upper dash panel. Just cut and install.
Be carful using an inverter for an AC PC. They are electrically noisy and will degrade the picture and sound quality of the PC.
You are better off getting a DC - DC power supply.
03-15-2005, 10:19 AM
#67
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Ditto Jeff's comments on the inverter. Just get an Opus or Carnetix power supply. You can read reviews on them at mp3car.com (they also sell them too). These offer advantages of startup and shutdown control as well...
03-15-2005, 10:33 AM
#68
Originally Posted by Japan8
Ditto Jeff's comments on the inverter. Just get an Opus or Carnetix power supply. You can read reviews on them at mp3car.com (they also sell them too). These offer advantages of startup and shutdown control as well...
will read more.
beers
03-15-2005, 11:17 AM
#69
Originally Posted by swoope
this is what i am looking at. as to the ac issue i was going to attack that with an old upc power supply.
The problem is that the "A/C" these devices spit out are really square waves and they are not symetrical. You can't just "filter them" because they contain too many partials.
If you created a filter that was tight enough, it would eat half of the available current and get real hot.
When I built the carputer for my MX-3, I went through all of the permutations. The best bet is not to introduce A/C into the auto environment.
Inversion is inefficient with power and is noisy. Leave it for running portable camping gear.
03-15-2005, 12:10 PM
#70
Thews8
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Been there, done that. It does no better.
The problem is that the "A/C" these devices spit out are really square waves and they are not symetrical. You can't just "filter them" because they contain too many partials.
If you created a filter that was tight enough, it would eat half of the available current and get real hot.
When I built the carputer for my MX-3, I went through all of the permutations. The best bet is not to introduce A/C into the auto environment.
Inversion is inefficient with power and is noisy. Leave it for running portable camping gear.
The problem is that the "A/C" these devices spit out are really square waves and they are not symetrical. You can't just "filter them" because they contain too many partials.
If you created a filter that was tight enough, it would eat half of the available current and get real hot.
When I built the carputer for my MX-3, I went through all of the permutations. The best bet is not to introduce A/C into the auto environment.
Inversion is inefficient with power and is noisy. Leave it for running portable camping gear.
03-15-2005, 12:12 PM
#71
thanks for saving me the time. is there something out there that will be compatable with a sff shuttle box. it is like a lap top for me. or should i build an new puter just for the car???????
beers
beers
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Been there, done that. It does no better.
The problem is that the "A/C" these devices spit out are really square waves and they are not symetrical. You can't just "filter them" because they contain too many partials.
If you created a filter that was tight enough, it would eat half of the available current and get real hot.
When I built the carputer for my MX-3, I went through all of the permutations. The best bet is not to introduce A/C into the auto environment.
Inversion is inefficient with power and is noisy. Leave it for running portable camping gear.
The problem is that the "A/C" these devices spit out are really square waves and they are not symetrical. You can't just "filter them" because they contain too many partials.
If you created a filter that was tight enough, it would eat half of the available current and get real hot.
When I built the carputer for my MX-3, I went through all of the permutations. The best bet is not to introduce A/C into the auto environment.
Inversion is inefficient with power and is noisy. Leave it for running portable camping gear.
03-15-2005, 01:00 PM
#72
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I am just curious, if you add an additional powersource, does that mean you are just plopping a big battery in there? So that would also mean you have to constantly charge it?
Originally Posted by thew
yep.. Ditto.. I have many customers that try to add inverters to ther system.. then they call me and ask why there REar back up camera has lines and Video Noise.. I tell then its the inverter.. I have had success filter inverts and or just giving the invert is own power source.. like its own Battey.. But the Best way to go is to use all Battery powerd no AC stuff.. Just like MazdaManiac has said,...
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