My Apple Car-Puter Install Project - First Pics
11-19-2008, 12:12 PM
#51
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Was New Zealand, now Australia.
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Ah ok, cool. I've always known them as PCBs (Printed Circuit Boards...).
Its the control PCB from the OEM Screen. I have retained it to control the motion of the Nav Screen, i.e. Open, Tilt, Memory, Illumination.
I am using a 1.83GHz Mac Mini (Intel) with 2 GB of RAM for the final install. I have others to play around with. When I am doing anything potentially risky, I use my old G4 ibook, just in case...
My AuxMod arrived yesterday (a surprise birthday present from my wife (amoung other things...!!)) which fitted straight in and works very well. The remaining pieces are all lined up, so when I have some free time next week, they will be assembled in the final configuration.
The Boot box is coming along nicely. I have a craft-wood (MDF) prototype built, that I will test in the boot with the 2 fans, to see what sort of heat is going on in there... too much heat means I will rethink the Mac placement, possibly in the pass through. (I still prefer the boot recess, so I can use my Mac Pro Aluminum Lid).
More photos will be posted soon, perhaps even a video of the hooked up set up on the desk.
Cheers
Dean
Its the control PCB from the OEM Screen. I have retained it to control the motion of the Nav Screen, i.e. Open, Tilt, Memory, Illumination.
I am using a 1.83GHz Mac Mini (Intel) with 2 GB of RAM for the final install. I have others to play around with. When I am doing anything potentially risky, I use my old G4 ibook, just in case...
My AuxMod arrived yesterday (a surprise birthday present from my wife (amoung other things...!!)) which fitted straight in and works very well. The remaining pieces are all lined up, so when I have some free time next week, they will be assembled in the final configuration.
The Boot box is coming along nicely. I have a craft-wood (MDF) prototype built, that I will test in the boot with the 2 fans, to see what sort of heat is going on in there... too much heat means I will rethink the Mac placement, possibly in the pass through. (I still prefer the boot recess, so I can use my Mac Pro Aluminum Lid).
More photos will be posted soon, perhaps even a video of the hooked up set up on the desk.
Cheers
Dean
Last edited by deanrx8; 11-19-2008 at 12:16 PM.
11-20-2008, 09:45 AM
#52
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Boston
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so if you got the original PCB, why did you have to change anything with it to make the buttons work? And did u do any hardware mods? or just reflashed some chips on it?? Im finishing up a transaction to get my dash, and I would like all functions to work... (I have all other items ready...) Can you give a little insight on how you got it to work with an aftermarket TFT?
Thanks!
Thanks!
11-20-2008, 11:50 AM
#53
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Was New Zealand, now Australia.
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
1) My car never came with OEM Nav, so the wiring loom wasn't present in the car. This required making my own pin connector for the back of the Nav Unit.
2) The Motor/Button Control PCB is integrated with the factory LCD...three PCBs sandwiched on the back of the factory LCD screen. I have discarded the factory LCD, yet retained the control PCB from the LCD assembly.
No flashing or hardware modification is needed...its just knowing what pins control what...
Dean
2) The Motor/Button Control PCB is integrated with the factory LCD...three PCBs sandwiched on the back of the factory LCD screen. I have discarded the factory LCD, yet retained the control PCB from the LCD assembly.
No flashing or hardware modification is needed...its just knowing what pins control what...
Dean
11-23-2008, 07:08 PM
#57
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Was New Zealand, now Australia.
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Better late than never....
Okay, as promised...
The first is a diagram of the pins, and what to connect to what to get the hood motion and illumination working as factory.
For pure simplicity, I recommend you buy some female pin connectors and heat shrink pipe from RadioShack/Tandy/JayCar/Maplins (or whatever your local electronic shop that sells all kinds of crap is called). Hook up the Illumination + (Yellow on my diagram and pic) to its pin, and then connect that to the Ashtray Illumination + (Red/Yellow wire on my 2003, with BOSE), so that your Nav Hood lights will go on with the headlights and the rest of your interior lights.
This picture is an actual pic of my connections, looking from behind and underneath, if the Hood is the right way up (i.e. as it would be positioned in the car).
Hope that helps.
Deano
The first is a diagram of the pins, and what to connect to what to get the hood motion and illumination working as factory.
For pure simplicity, I recommend you buy some female pin connectors and heat shrink pipe from RadioShack/Tandy/JayCar/Maplins (or whatever your local electronic shop that sells all kinds of crap is called). Hook up the Illumination + (Yellow on my diagram and pic) to its pin, and then connect that to the Ashtray Illumination + (Red/Yellow wire on my 2003, with BOSE), so that your Nav Hood lights will go on with the headlights and the rest of your interior lights.
This picture is an actual pic of my connections, looking from behind and underneath, if the Hood is the right way up (i.e. as it would be positioned in the car).
Hope that helps.
Deano
11-23-2008, 09:43 PM
#58
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Word of caution, if you hook up the battery (constant +12v) to both pin 1Q and 1O, the navigation board will always be on, EVEN when the car is completely off. This can drain the battery and the screen won't automatically close when the car is turned off or auto-open when on. From my testing the circuitry doesn't draw very much power when on and the OEM LCD is not plugged in, but it is still significantly more than when it's wired correctly and the car is off.. Wire 1O (ACC) should go to your accessory/ignition line. Since you're already going to the cig lighter for button illumination, why not just pull the ACC line from there as well?
11-23-2008, 10:06 PM
#59
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Was New Zealand, now Australia.
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Yes, my bad.
That diagram, and the explanation was based on my workbench set up, i.e. both positives going to the power supply (as well as the Illumination wire).
The ACC pin should of course be wired to the Accessories circuit of the car when installed.
Ta for pointing that out.
Dean
That diagram, and the explanation was based on my workbench set up, i.e. both positives going to the power supply (as well as the Illumination wire).
The ACC pin should of course be wired to the Accessories circuit of the car when installed.
Ta for pointing that out.
Dean
11-23-2008, 10:13 PM
#60
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Was New Zealand, now Australia.
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Any tips on getting the Lilliput to switch on when the hood lifts up? I was going to put a pressure switch behind the casing that was depressed when the hood was in the raised position, which then allowed power to the screen. Is there a simpler way?
11-24-2008, 10:21 AM
#61
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Actually there is, kind of.. It all depends on your preference. There should be a hidden menu that allows the screen to automatically power up when the computer is turned on. Type 588998 on the remote and there should be an option for auto-power. I know this works for a 629, but I believe a 619 is the exact same screen just the connector is in a different spot. I don't know how well it works as I've never used it. This will only turn the screen on when the PC is powered up, so if you close the screen while you're driving for instance- you'll have to remember to use the remote so it's not on while in the dash. I'm also not sure if the screen turns off when the PC turns off (power light is red) or goes to sleep (power light is orange) alz0rz uses this method, maybe he'll have more information. It also depends on your power source to the monitor, I have mine on an ACC line so it kills power as soon as I turn the car off. I built a custom circuit using a microcontroller to allow the screen to turn on and off without the hidden menu and everytime it flipped up or down, even while driving. I never thought about a pressure switch and have no idea how easy that would be to implement if you wanted to go that route.
11-24-2008, 08:28 PM
#62
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Boston
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I can picture a pressure switch working, but i havent been under that dash so I wouldnt know where to mount one... I would make sure the switch is a NH (normally high) switch not a NL(normally low) switch... This way, as long as the button isnt pushed, current will pass through and power the screen. As soon as the button is pushed, the power is disconnected... That way u can mount it where the trim of the LCD closes and itll turn off wenever the screen is shut... I think the software method is alot better though if it works...
11-25-2008, 09:36 AM
#65
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Boston
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i think they screen powers off and on as the COMPUTER goes on and off.. depending on wether or not you are receiving a signal through your VGA cable from ur computer... If you ARE receiving a signal, the screen goes on, if you ARENT, then the screen goes off... This is a function on many monitors, where if you PC goes into standby, it stops outputting signals from the VGA and the monitor can detect that there is nothing being recieved, so it just switches the monitor off/standby... How this is done with a lilliput I wouldnt know... (the firmware menu that they have been talking about is the way to do it I believe...)
11-25-2008, 11:54 AM
#66
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Was New Zealand, now Australia.
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
The screen does go on and off with the the Mac, however, as I will not always be using the screen, and the hood may be down, I want the screen to be off then too...but have it spring to life when the screen raises...
12-01-2008, 02:04 AM
#67
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Was New Zealand, now Australia.
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
New Video....
I've solved the problem....
I just put two contacts in. One on the moving hood, and one on the frame. When the hood is open, the contacts are touching, suppling power to the screen...., when the hood closes, the contact breaks, and the power is disconnected....
yay.
Busy making a video of the new Quartz Composer for the Music Vizualiser....Spinning silver 8, with track name, artist and artwork...as well as a music spectrum...
heres a quick preview....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LZlY0LyE6M
Let me know what you think...
Deano
I just put two contacts in. One on the moving hood, and one on the frame. When the hood is open, the contacts are touching, suppling power to the screen...., when the hood closes, the contact breaks, and the power is disconnected....
yay.
Busy making a video of the new Quartz Composer for the Music Vizualiser....Spinning silver 8, with track name, artist and artwork...as well as a music spectrum...
heres a quick preview....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LZlY0LyE6M
Let me know what you think...
Deano
Last edited by deanrx8; 12-03-2008 at 12:13 AM.
12-05-2008, 06:22 PM
#70
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kailua, Hawaii
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I love the spinning 8! I've been looking at mini/nano/pico atx boards, trying to figure out where I'm going to put my carputer. Would a mac mini fit in the center console or in the back seat removable trunk access panel?
12-09-2008, 01:58 AM
#71
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Was New Zealand, now Australia.
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
The mini would fit (just) in the pass through box between the rear seats.
Now, onto an epic fail.
The OEM PCB blew today, meaning I lost all OEM button functions (tilt, open) etc.
I went ahead and built the circuit described on another thread, and that worked a treat...the only pain in the **** being that you have to hold the open button until the hood opens all the way. Trying to figure away around that now...
Fingers crossed I can come up with a solution.
Now, onto an epic fail.
The OEM PCB blew today, meaning I lost all OEM button functions (tilt, open) etc.
I went ahead and built the circuit described on another thread, and that worked a treat...the only pain in the **** being that you have to hold the open button until the hood opens all the way. Trying to figure away around that now...
Fingers crossed I can come up with a solution.
12-09-2008, 04:10 AM
#72
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kailua, Hawaii
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also, I'm not sure which circuit you built, but I think there's a thread around here somewhere where they interfaced a microcontroller to an H-bridge and were able to get full open / close / tilt functionality. Here's a video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6UtPBqGrB_k
12-09-2008, 12:00 PM
#73
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've made a replacement controller, all the details are here:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/oem-navigation-hood-retrofit-carputer-application-140504/page2/
Post #50 has the important information if you don't want to read about my progress, lol.
Youtube video of mine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bhy2yOsaKNg
Another member using the controller:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOEqt...&feature=email
Are you sure the OEM PCB "blew"? What exactly happened? I learned a good amount reverse engineering the OEM board to build the controller.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/oem-navigation-hood-retrofit-carputer-application-140504/page2/
Post #50 has the important information if you don't want to read about my progress, lol.
Youtube video of mine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bhy2yOsaKNg
Another member using the controller:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOEqt...&feature=email
Are you sure the OEM PCB "blew"? What exactly happened? I learned a good amount reverse engineering the OEM board to build the controller.
12-09-2008, 12:12 PM
#75
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Was New Zealand, now Australia.
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
It was all working fine, exactly like factory. Then I left it for a day... decided to test it again....hooked up the power...and nothing. The motor sort of twitched (in the closed position) and then that was it. I double checked all my connections... made sure the ribbon cable was seated properly, not broken, seated correctly. I checked my power wiring, all going to the correct pins...the illumination was working fine...checked the motor wires, all good.....it was just dead. Tried everything for about 3 hours with no joy, (and it was working perfectly the day before....)...
The only remote possibility is that a powered wire may have brushed the OEM PCB when I moved it...but I'm fairly sure the power was off at that point, but I have been known to be wrong.
Chainu, I looked at your information on post #50, awesome, but I fear that is WAY over my head. Okay, maybe making the PCB is do-able, but programing etc etc is beyond me. Unless you are selling completed boards, then looks like I will make do with the jerry rig I have hooked up....
The only remote possibility is that a powered wire may have brushed the OEM PCB when I moved it...but I'm fairly sure the power was off at that point, but I have been known to be wrong.
Chainu, I looked at your information on post #50, awesome, but I fear that is WAY over my head. Okay, maybe making the PCB is do-able, but programing etc etc is beyond me. Unless you are selling completed boards, then looks like I will make do with the jerry rig I have hooked up....