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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 08:08 PM
  #51  
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couldn't find any rca-to-speaker wire cables at fry's... bought the components from radio shack - looks like i'm making my own!
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 11:58 AM
  #52  
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plugged everything in and nothing but the power is working. no sound, no hazards, no steering wheel controls, no a/c controls
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 12:54 PM
  #53  
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Check all your fuses and also ensure that your "remote turn on" wire (blue/white) is connected properly. Without this, the Bose amp will not turn on.
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 01:56 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by firebirdude
........ but no. I'm not interested in making them. :P
And I guess I've changed my mind. I'm going to hunt down the resistors, some PCB wire connectors and some PCB and solder something together for us. Give me a bit, but we'll see how it turns out.
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 02:50 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by firebirdude
Check all your fuses and also ensure that your "remote turn on" wire (blue/white) is connected properly. Without this, the Bose amp will not turn on.
I'll check. Wired to ti other blue /white I'm guessing...
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 02:08 AM
  #56  
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got it working, apparently the blue/white wire was the key to EVERYTHING, lol... it was the only thing i connected and everything started working

bad news is that i now have a whine coming from the engine.. guess it's time to visit radioshack!
i need to take it apart anyway, since I forgot to connect the steering wheel controls... and the dimmer isn't working :o
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 07:12 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by firebirdude
And I guess I've changed my mind. I'm going to hunt down the resistors, some PCB wire connectors and some PCB and solder something together for us. Give me a bit, but we'll see how it turns out.
Nice I'd either be interested in the end result or would just be curious what parts you will be using for this. I'm always interested in tinkering with stuff so this would certainly be something new and fun to try out.
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 07:19 AM
  #58  
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Glad you got it figured out. Sorry to hear you have engine whine, but that's what this thread is all about. lol

I picked up the resistors last night so now I'm just hunting down a chunk of PCB and some PCB wire connectors at reasonable prices. I'll solder everything together and test it out on my home receiver. Then I'll make a few more for you guys. Keep in mind these will just be components hand soldered on a PCB. You'll still have to insulate it from touching other electronic pieces/ground. Wrapping the whole thing in electrical tape would probably be fine. Should be much easier this way versus twisting resistor leads together, soldering, then insulating four loose sets of them.

Last edited by firebirdude; Jul 8, 2012 at 07:25 AM.
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 09:58 AM
  #59  
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I had the engine whine problem as well when running RCAs. Tried 2 other grounding points and same problem. Listen for buzzing when you open and close your doors as well.

I just ended up not using the RCAs.
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 09:23 PM
  #60  
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well, i got everything working and i'm happy. to "fix" the engine whine, i did the ghetto fix method of wrapping the RCA shields with copper wire and connecting them to the head unit chassis. there's a little bit of a whine now, but i can't hear it over the combination of music/engine, even at low volume

thanks for all the help, firebirdude
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 01:57 PM
  #61  
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Update: the whine is still there, but fades when the car warms up. Definitely strange, but I am overall still satisfied
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 02:43 PM
  #62  
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Question

Originally Posted by firebirdude
And I guess I've changed my mind. I'm going to hunt down the resistors, some PCB wire connectors and some PCB and solder something together for us. Give me a bit, but we'll see how it turns out.
fbd, were you able to make any of these?
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 09:20 PM
  #63  
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**** no. Had to fight with the damn Chinese parts suppliers I ordered from. They say they shipped my parts, but couldn't (or wouldn't) provide any proof. I finally get them weeks later and the PCB is the wrong one. Speaker wire connectors wouldn't fit onto it. Sat on my desk for a few days while I decided what to do.... then I just gave up. I was just going to do it as a favor to everyone, but it turned into a huge waste of my time.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 03:37 PM
  #64  
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So got my kit installed. Yep have the engine whine. Cant get my DVD player to play (Dual XDVDn9131) but thats a diff story. Also now my heat wont stop blowing. Any ideas??
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 04:32 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by John Finney
Yep have the engine whine.
Try installing a ground loop isolator (such as a PAC SNI-1, GS Audio GL301, Scosche ES034, Boss B25N or similar), between the head unit and the vehicle harness..

Originally Posted by John Finney
Cant get my DVD player to play (Dual XDVDn9131)
Did you remember to remove the 3 transport screws from the top of the unit before installing the deck?

Originally Posted by John Finney
my heat wont stop blowing. Any ideas??
I will assume that you mean that the HVAC system will only provide heat regardless of the position of the temperature dial. This will happen if you cross-connected the fan and temp cables, if the HVAC control panel has bad solder joints, or if you got a defective Metra controller. If you mis-connected the cables you can fry the controller. If the cables are connected properly, then you should try the heater fix DIY ( https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...ontrol-158200/ ). If that still does not work, then you probably have a DOA/failed controller (contact the place of purchase for a warranty replacement).

If you meant that the fan won't stop running (fan control dial not functioning), you need to check the connector to the fan contol on the back of the HVAC panel.

Last edited by cybrmage; Feb 23, 2013 at 04:37 AM.
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 04:05 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by RX8Geek
I have attached a drawing of a single channel pad, using 3 1/4W resistors. You can probably get them at Radio Shack. If not, DigiKey.com.

If you have the skills to solder and then insulate the connections, this method is virtually free, and it will reduce your volume level without introducing noise.

If the result is still too loud (probably won't be), you can decrease the value of the 18 ohm shunt resistor. Good luck.
Ok, I will be doing this once I receive my HU and components purchased. I have a question thou. What if I use 68 ohm resistors in series and a 15 ohm in parallel instead of the suggested 62 and 18? Will there be any noticeable difference?

Radio Shack only has 68 ohm and a 15 ohm locally.
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 04:13 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by yeyo_racing
Will there be any noticeable difference?
Nah.
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Old Sep 13, 2023 | 01:50 PM
  #68  
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Just a PSA, as I installed my Metra Kit today. I was able to keep steering button functionality by simply connecting the green/white connector to the Steering Wheel Key (+) wire on my new head unit harness. Just had to map the buttons on the steering wheel to what I wanted in the new head unit's settings.
I think modern head units can interpret the steering wheel button presses just fine. All I need to finish the install is an antenna extension as mine couldn't reach into the new head unit.
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Old Sep 13, 2023 | 08:05 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Funky
Just a PSA, as I installed my Metra Kit today. I was able to keep steering button functionality by simply connecting the green/white connector to the Steering Wheel Key (+) wire on my new head unit harness. Just had to map the buttons on the steering wheel to what I wanted in the new head unit's settings.
I think modern head units can interpret the steering wheel button presses just fine. All I need to finish the install is an antenna extension as mine couldn't reach into the new head unit.
Nice!

SWC depends on the brand head unit. The no name Android based units seem to have this built in. Also Sony head units. To my knowledge, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC, and Alpine do not.
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