All right so I found that the fuses that were tied to the back half of the fuse block were 12V and the others that did not have voltage, were tied to the front half. So I jumpered to the positive post on the battery and viola. So I need to track down the lead and find where its fused and or open. Thanks I will be in touch.

 

I found it. It is the 120 A main fuse, facing the engine compartment underneath the main terminals feeding the fuse box. Now to find the replacement, without getting raped.

 

This is the best forum going. You guys rock. It's the moral support and the light hearted positive attitudes. Thanks everyone for chiming in.

 

Main Fuse FTMFW!

Jeez I should take modesty lessons......


S

 

there is a main fuse in the fusebox. 100A maybe? It will blow and save the rest of the fuses, computer, Armageddon, etc.

 

I removed the plastic cover on the fuse and soldered the link back. My local parts store did not have this fuse. I will go to the pick a part later when I have time.

 

Soldering the fuse back together is a VERY bad idea, if your car surges again it could be up in flames or everything might just go black again.

Fuses have a certain voltage going to them for a reason.. how much the fuse can handle is determined by the size of the piece of metal in it. And if you added more you might have a problem on your hands after a little while with that..

 

Yep, you're right. I just had to use two pieces of stranded 16awg on someone's car today. BUT we ordered that 120A fuse and will be in on Thursday. I just explained to her that she needs to keep everyone away from the engine bay until it comes in and I go put it in.

To the OP....................go order one........it's $8.00 and don't wait too long to put it in.

 

Guessing at which pole is positive? - $3000

Cost of 120 Amp Main Fuse that saved him? - $8

Soldering up that same fuse?......PRICELESS!

I'm starting to see a pattern here.

S

 

^.......................

 

Daamnnn only $8! The main fuse for my old honda accord was $120!!!

Some parts for this car are stupid expensive and some are cheap as hell, lol.

 

Well............that's what the said to her. I can only assume that they ordered the right one.

 

Better than using a .22 shell

 

took me a while to figure this one out should have calmed down gone inside turned the computer on and searched....

 

oohh i love this thread right here the samething happen to my car thank you rx8cliub lol now ill go ordered the fuse lol

 

im having same problem.... but i worked out its my main fuse (120) under the bonnet,
but need help pulling it out.....?
its defo blown..... i know some time main fuse are bolted,,, but i dont know about this one.....

ANY ONE HAVE ANY IDEA HOW TO REMOVE MAIN FUSE ?????

 

Yes, I have done it for someone that blew their 120A. However I don't exactly recall, but it wasn't rocket science. I think there where two screws or bolts that held it in. Wasn't any real big deal. As a matter of fact, and I shouldn't tell you this. While we waited for the fuse to come in at the dealer, I used a decent piece of wire(~12awg) to make her a temporary fuse(so to speak).

 

It's the 120 Amp fusible link. My son just hooked up my new yellow-top backwards. The fusible link on the side of the main fusebox saves most circuits, but a couple cabin fuses were also blown. Here's the Autozone version:

Bussmann/Fusible Link (BP-FLM-120-RP) | Fusible Link | 2004 Mazda RX8 1.3L MPI Rotary | AutoZone.com

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...152125_0_86935

You will have to carefully bend the tabs out to 90 degrees. I happen to have the full shop manuals, in case you need help with the detailed R&R instructions. It's < $5, so don't let a shop bill you $100 for this simple fix.

HTH

 

^.....thanks...........saved those pics for future reference when someone needs them.
Did it hurt the yellow top? I don't imagine it was on there very long before it blew the fuse.
Most likely as he made contact with the 2nd post right?
Did you have a discussion with him about what "+" and "-" means? (lol).

 

(@ Buttonwillow, so switched to m. acct.) Np. The link blows b4 any critical circuits, so batt wld b last part at risk. Btw, foggy here, so slippery track. Lots of newbie spins. Hope to stay on track until sun comes out.

 

This thread saved me a lot of headache.

Dead Battery, Crossed the cables on Jump (DOH!)
New Battery, still won't start, not even attempting to turn over.
Checked fuses, and Engine 15A was the only blown fuse. Replaced this fuse and the car began to turn over before a loud pop. Now all of my interior fixtures no longer have power and the car still won't start.

Checked the fuses again, Engine 15A was good, but Main 120A was blown.

Replaced Main 120A and life has returned to normal.

It seems when I originally crossed the cables I did two things, 1 - blow Engine 15A fuse and 2 - Severely damage Main 120A fuse.

BTW, O'Reilly's stocks the 120A Main fuse. $4.

 

Disconnect Battery
Unclip the Harness located next to this fuse
Remove two bolts from top (10mm)
Lift up fuse box a bit to get a better angle. (it snaps open and comes up)

Main 120 Fuse sits at a 90 Degree angle on the side of the box. Once you lift it up a bit you'll see there are two bolts (8mm) holding it in. Take off those bolts and pull the fuse out.