JL e4300 amp good for the 8?
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JL e4300 amp good for the 8?
I had posted a thread about my frustration with satellite radio output being low. I now understand that this is a result of the FM modulation and really can't be avoided.
So, my current thinking is to add a JL e4300 amp to raise the overall output of the entire system. This amp was recommended to me by someone at a local stereo shop. I was told that the amp would not, based on usage of course, fry my factory speakers (although I plan on replacing them down the road).
Is this amp a good choice to accomplish what I want to? The price of the amp itself is $299, plus close to another $200 installation to cover the cables and two boxes of some kind that need to be attached to the stereo.
I know next to nothing about the technical aspect of stereos. And when I say next to nothing, I'm referring to the side underneath nothing. Much has changed since I built boxes and put Jensen 6X9s in my bug as a teenager.
So, my current thinking is to add a JL e4300 amp to raise the overall output of the entire system. This amp was recommended to me by someone at a local stereo shop. I was told that the amp would not, based on usage of course, fry my factory speakers (although I plan on replacing them down the road).
Is this amp a good choice to accomplish what I want to? The price of the amp itself is $299, plus close to another $200 installation to cover the cables and two boxes of some kind that need to be attached to the stereo.
I know next to nothing about the technical aspect of stereos. And when I say next to nothing, I'm referring to the side underneath nothing. Much has changed since I built boxes and put Jensen 6X9s in my bug as a teenager.
Guest
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Thanks for the reply, here are the specs:
Available: Now Shipping
Rated Power (stereo):
45W RMS x 4 @ 4 ohm (12.5V);
75W RMS x 4 @ 2 ohm (12.5V)
Rated Power (bridged):
90W RMS x 2 @ 8 ohm (12.5V);
150W RMS x 2 @ 4 ohm (12.5V)
THD at Rated Power:
<0.08% @ 4 ohm (20 Hz - 20 kHz)
S/N Ratio:
>104 dB referred to rated power (A-weighted, 20 Hz – 20 kHz noise bandwidth)
Frequency Response:
10 Hz – 25 kHz (+0, -1dB)
Damping Factor:
>200 @ 4 ohm per ch. / 50 Hz,
>100 @ 2 ohm per ch. / 50 Hz
Slew Rate:
± 22V/µs
Input Range:
200mV – 8V RMS
Dimensions:
13.8" x 9.25" x 2.36"
Features:
Absolute Symmetry™ Class AB Circuit (U.S. Patent #6,294,959)
Differential, Noise-Cancelling Input Topology:
RCA jack inputs (low-level) and multi-pin jack (high-level)
On-board Crossover:
State-variable, 12dB/octave Butterworth with continuously variable cutoff frequency selection from 50 – 200 Hz. Configurable as Low-Pass or High-Pass
Preamp Output:
Pass-through type.
Speaker output connections:
accept up to 8 AWG wire
+12V and Ground connections:
accept up to 4 AWG wire
Available: Now Shipping
Rated Power (stereo):
45W RMS x 4 @ 4 ohm (12.5V);
75W RMS x 4 @ 2 ohm (12.5V)
Rated Power (bridged):
90W RMS x 2 @ 8 ohm (12.5V);
150W RMS x 2 @ 4 ohm (12.5V)
THD at Rated Power:
<0.08% @ 4 ohm (20 Hz - 20 kHz)
S/N Ratio:
>104 dB referred to rated power (A-weighted, 20 Hz – 20 kHz noise bandwidth)
Frequency Response:
10 Hz – 25 kHz (+0, -1dB)
Damping Factor:
>200 @ 4 ohm per ch. / 50 Hz,
>100 @ 2 ohm per ch. / 50 Hz
Slew Rate:
± 22V/µs
Input Range:
200mV – 8V RMS
Dimensions:
13.8" x 9.25" x 2.36"
Features:
Absolute Symmetry™ Class AB Circuit (U.S. Patent #6,294,959)
Differential, Noise-Cancelling Input Topology:
RCA jack inputs (low-level) and multi-pin jack (high-level)
On-board Crossover:
State-variable, 12dB/octave Butterworth with continuously variable cutoff frequency selection from 50 – 200 Hz. Configurable as Low-Pass or High-Pass
Preamp Output:
Pass-through type.
Speaker output connections:
accept up to 8 AWG wire
+12V and Ground connections:
accept up to 4 AWG wire
Int'l Man of Mystery
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,651
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
Hmmm. Looks a little too powerful for stock speakers. Generally most people would swap their speakers out BEFORE buying an amp when trying to imptove their system. Your complaint is about noise and the inherent weakness of FM transmitters over AUX inputs... another solution might be to wait for OverLOAD's Aux module and work your way up from there...
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 0
From: South Florida
Unless you're REALLY cranking it, more speakers are damaged from underpowered amps than overpowered ones. In fact, if you're really cranking the underpowered stock amp and its clipping, that's the worst thing you can do to your drivers. However, changing out the speakers is probably the single biggest improvement you'll make in your sound quality, so go ahead and blow the stock suckers! You'll be glad you did in the long run.
jds
jds
Int'l Man of Mystery
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,651
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
Yeah... bureau13 does have a point. So blow those crappy speakers... so you can buy some new one to replace them. :D
My only thought has been that is an amp really the solution to this problem? The problem isn't that the headunit's amp is weak, rather the FM modulator is giving you a weak signal and so your input level is low. Sure turning up the volume helps here, but your noise also increases... Thus I mentioned the aux module earlier.
My only thought has been that is an amp really the solution to this problem? The problem isn't that the headunit's amp is weak, rather the FM modulator is giving you a weak signal and so your input level is low. Sure turning up the volume helps here, but your noise also increases... Thus I mentioned the aux module earlier.
Last edited by Japan8; Apr 27, 2004 at 08:39 PM.
Guest
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Got the amp installed today. I'm no expert but my opinion is that the primary issue with the Bose system may be that it is just underpowered. The JL amp brought the system to life, I now have highs that I never got before.
Not the cheapest solution, but it sure sounds nice.
Not the cheapest solution, but it sure sounds nice.
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