DreamWarrior

Hey all, I posted this in my "how flat is the factory head" thread, but it seems to be getting no views, and this is really a more appropriate place for it anyway. So I figured I'd start a thread to get some outside insight into my potential system.

Here are my current options/ideas:

I'll probably be going with at least a Zapco Reference 1000.4 amp. However, I'm debating what to do with it. For reference, the amp is 150x4@4 ohms.

My options revolve around the speakers and how to make use of this amp.

Option 1: Buy DLS 8.2 component set, put 8" midbass driver in the door and tweet in the stock sail. Use the front channels of the amp to power the components using their passive crossover. Purchase a modest sub set-up and use the rear channels of the amp to power it (probably bridged to a single sub).

The issues I have with this option are: I think the midbass driver in the DLS 8.2 set will be underpowered by the amp and I'll be craving more midbass quickly. I also think that at 300 watts bridged the sub will be underpowered. If I decided to get a beafier set-up, then what'd likely happen is that I'd go active on the DLS set and buy a new sub and separate amp for it. However, the issue that I'd be facing then is wasting 2 of the channels on the 1000.4 to power wimpy tweets.

Option 2: Buy DLS 8.3 component set, put 8" midbass driver in the door and attempt to mount the 3" mid and 1" tweet somewhere else, probably a kick panel. The factory sail location would likely be unused. In this option, however, I wouldn't buy a sub right away. I'd power the hell out of the 8" midbass drivers with 2 channels of the amp, and then power the mid/tweet with the other two. This would probably give me much more beaf throughout the entire range.

This option, however, leaves me with no sub for now. However, if I bought a sub later on, I think my front stage would be powerful enough to handle a very beafy sub setup. I also think my midbass would be powered very well and handle down into the lower freq. range very nicely. This option will also be more expensive in the long run. It would, however, make much better use of the amp, IMO. The drawback is that there are more speakers to deal with (install, time align, eq, etc).

I'm really not sure what to do. I'm leaning towards option 2, however, because I'm hoping the powerful front stage will make up for the lack of a sub. Assuming the mid/tweet can take the 150 watts/channel I think they'd screem. The midbass drivers will play down to 45hz, and with 150 watts/channel powering them, I *hope* they should have enough to get pretty loud.

What do you guys think? Which option would you go with? Maybe you havfe some different speaker selections (I'd like at least an 8" midbass). Maybe a sub selection if I decide to go with option 1....something very efficient that would get pretty loud even with a meager 300 watts.

Likely the amps will be Zapco...my installer loves them and their differential (symbilink) signal inputs mitigate many potential noise issues. Plus since the factory head is balanced to begin with I won't be breaking the balanced chain. Even if I could get him to use cheaper amps I wouldn't even know what to pick. Besides I had Zapco C2K series before and they were both extremely powerful and bullet-proof. I don't have that kind of budget again, though, so he suggested their Reference line.

DreamWarrior

views...no opinions...hummm...anyone wanna say anything?

DreRX8

Check out my post https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/my-install-complete-peep-pics-63587/

This section doesn't get quite as much traffic--hence the long response time--I honestly have never heard of zapco--but I have an 8" sub and it is enough bass for me--its louder than the Basslink that I heard in another vehicle and it evens out my system nicely.

DreamWarrior

I saw your thread...nice install.

As for the sub, my last system had two 12's and 2000 watts (Zapco C2K 9.0)...so...that's where I'm coming from. It was like a club in my car with rap/dance music. And if I really cranked it, it'd shake the 2nd floor windows of my g/fs dorm when I pulled into the parking lot. It was fun...but I don't have the money for that again .

DreRX8

Oh--you want big boy stuff then--I went for the 'Accoustical Soundstage' route this time. I shook some windows with my Millenia--didn't want to do that with the 8. Probably the most economical is 1 good quality 10". So far I have no complaints with this Alpine amp.

DreamWarrior

Oh don't get me wrong, that same system and a couple button presses and I was winning 3rd in sound quality at the IASCA finals in 2002 (1st at Spring Break nationals that same competition year).

Both my last, and this new, system were built for sound quality. I just like it to get really damn loud and maintain that sound quality as well. It was like having a concert in front of me all the time with my last car...I don't think I'll have the money for that kind of power again...but...I want to get as close as possible.

TRU681

Zapco is among those companies that makes truly highend amps so not too many people heard of their name or listened to their amazing amps because they don't really have alot of shops carry them since they are so expensive(Ck2 amps)! Ck2 amps are awesome!
Oh yeah, I wuold go with option 1 if you don't want to spend the extra money.The reference 1000.4 is rated 150watts x4 at 4ohms & 250watts x4 at 2ohms &
500 watts x2 at 4ohms bridged. That amp is enough to power your option 1 setup & is probably louder than you might think. 150watts is plenty for midbass! I'm not exactly sure but I hope the reference series give it's power rating in RMS, I know the Ck2 amps does but not really sure with the reference series.

DreamWarrior

Yeah, I'd love to go with C2K again...but they are way too much money. My hope is that the Reference line is just as droolable...and hopefully still better than 90% of the stuff out there. I really wonder, though, if they are worth it on my budget....

As for your comments...With Option 1 I'd only have one amp for the time being, so the components would be entirely ran off the front channels, and the sub off the rear. I'm curious if that'd be enough...and the issue is that if its not and I have to buy a sub-amp later, I'm wasting two front channels (or bridging the 1000.4 to the mids (which will be overkill for sure) and buying both a sub-amp and a small amp for the tweets).... Hummm...options, options....

What other speaker options do people recommend...I've been searching around a lot lately and found Morel's Elate series to be highly recommended, and Morel USA also has a component set out that looks nice.... Too many choices...then there's Seas and others....grrrrrr....wish I could hear it all and make my decisions lol.

TRU681

Morel make great components! I have a pair of Phoenix Gold Elites (pretty much same as the Elates) made by Morel. They sound awesome with ton of midbass. Diamond Audio Hex components are good, Dyn Audio, Boston components, Focals, & Image Dynamics makes great components.

DreamWarrior

I was looking at the Dyns too...I've heard the Focals in many cars and for some reason I've found their midbass response in those cars to be lacking. I like a nice beafy midbass and they didn't seem to have the xmax for it.

Ever heard the DLS? I had their 6.5" midbass in my Camaro and it was meaty! I'm hoping to audition them and see...but I wish I had a way to compare it to the Morels.

What do you think about the other options? 2/3 way componets and usage of the amp?

TRU681

Focals are very detailed in overall sound, it needs a lot of tuning with a 30band EQ to achieve you liking with Focals.I know that they are great but I don't like Focals that much because I do agree that they do lack a little midbass. Dyns in the other hand have tremendous midbass, I heard a set in a Mustang & it was awesome. As for DLS, I have heard of their name but never auditioned a pair of their speakers or amps. I did hear that they make highend components. They are made in Swedon or something.

DreamWarrior

I've heard that Morel, DLS, and a few others all buy Dyns. motor design and tailor it for their needs...no they are all pretty close. Just different cones and maybe a different magnet type....

Anyway, I've basically changed the amp to a 750.2 (175x2 @ 4 ohms) and will be using it to passively power a DLS Iridium 8.2 component set. 8" in the door, tweet in the sail. My installer says he's powered these components passively with this amp before and they scream pretty well...so we'll see. He says the amp is also good for 900 watts mono, so it can be my sub amp later on if I decide to step up to something bigger on the components.... We'll see how this works out, I may have it done next weekend depending on how quickly he can get the gear.

VelociRedBeast

for the trunk, get a Kicker CVR 10" sub with thier KX200 or 400.2 amp, it fits nicley AND I HAVE A SPARE TIRE. no rattle and a lot of thump...