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How significant the difference would be just replacing the rear deck and tweeters?

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Old 09-30-2011, 02:34 AM
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How significant the difference would be just replacing the rear deck and tweeters?

So guys, the Bose setup has kinda a muffled bass tune to it and lack some highs. I'm wondering how big of a help it'd be just to replace the front and back tweeters with Kappa 10.9Ts and the rear deck to Kappa 692.9i.

I'm not gonna try and get an amp and a sub since I auto-x at least once a month and I just don't wanna carry the extra 50lbs, plus I already have a rear strut limiting my trunk space anyway.

Would anyone tell me if this $200 upgrades in speakers improve the sound of my system? If so, how much of an improvement should I expect? Would it make the sound become imbalanced etc. idk... Would the whole idea just not worth it?

Thanks for your time reading this.

Last edited by dezau; 09-30-2011 at 02:43 AM.
Old 09-30-2011, 03:51 AM
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I'm sure someone else will have better info especially since I have the base stereo, but I'll get it started.
I have the 692.9i in the rear and I ran them for a while without a subwoofer. I also ran them with an amp for a while in hopes that somehow they might be adequate in lieu of a sub. My experience was consistent with what the internets told me -- 6x9s just can't put out much "real" bass, and the rear speakers don't really contribute much to the overall sound.

I also doubt it will help much to change the rear tweeters. My understanding is that tweeters work best when they are close to and aimed at the listener.

I think you would be best off replacing both front speakers with a component system, and also the front amps. Then remove the rear speakers entirely.
Old 09-30-2011, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by oltmann
I'm sure someone else will have better info especially since I have the base stereo, but I'll get it started.
I have the 692.9i in the rear and I ran them for a while without a subwoofer. I also ran them with an amp for a while in hopes that somehow they might be adequate in lieu of a sub. My experience was consistent with what the internets told me -- 6x9s just can't put out much "real" bass, and the rear speakers don't really contribute much to the overall sound.

I also doubt it will help much to change the rear tweeters. My understanding is that tweeters work best when they are close to and aimed at the listener.
Completely agree with everything said.
Originally Posted by oltmann
I think you would be best off replacing both front speakers with a component system, and also the front amps. Then remove the rear speakers entirely.
Opinion and will differ person to person. Many people are happy with a setup like this, others are not.

I'd start by just replacing the front tweeters. It's a small investment that I'm sure will yield some improvement. As for additional bass, going to an aftermarket 6x9 in the rear probably won't help much at all. You might think about adding a self-amplified subwoofer like a Bazooka tube. They use a quick disconnect power plug. Just unsnap it and leave it with a friend when you go to the track.
Old 09-30-2011, 12:00 PM
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Thanks Oltman & firebirdude.

But honestly I'm more interested in upgrading the mids and highs. I prefer hmmm "clearer" music as I'm so used to the tone produced by my Shure SE535. I can live without heart pounding bass, but I'd like to improve the mids and highs first, would an aftermarket 6x9 in the back do it? I know since the front speakers are at 1/2 ohms, it'd be kinda hard, well impossible to find a replacement for it.
Don't Bazooka tubes kinda have a bad name in the game though btw?
Old 09-30-2011, 12:19 PM
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Like I said, just start with the tweeters up front and see how you like it.

Plenty of people hate on Bazooka. Truth be told, I have quite a bit of experience with them. My shop used to sell there tubes and amps. They're not junk. They're heads and shoulders above Pyramid, Boss, or any other crap brand out there. Are they top of the line? Or course not. But their Bazooka tubes put out a decent bump dependably. And the fact the amp, enclosure and everything is built in is awesome. Super easy installation and removal into any car. That's the selling point. I think you're a great candidate for one.
Old 09-30-2011, 12:31 PM
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What size would you recommend? 6 inch 8 inch? 100W 250W? and are there any other choices out there if I REALLY don't like the stupid name of it lol...
How does http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Bassl...403754&sr=8-16 this compare.
or
http://www.amazon.com/BASS1200-10-In...7403754&sr=8-1
I just like a little more ommph, but definitely do not want those window shaking and *** shattering ones...

Last edited by dezau; 09-30-2011 at 12:35 PM.
Old 09-30-2011, 01:31 PM
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I used Alpine S-609's for the rear deck. It's a clear improvement, but not huge. A much bigger one was the Image Dynamics XS-28 mid/tweeter's. You have to cut on the sail panels, but a big boost to the upper ranges, enough that I run the bose treble at -2.

IMO, the best way to improve the mid/bass is by panel dampening the doors. 10 sq ft of Second Skin amounts to ~ 3 lbs and ~$50.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/cheapest-audio-upgrade-ever-%3D-%2450-215671/
Old 09-30-2011, 02:10 PM
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I've installed the 8" 250W in an Audi S4 (well built car) and was very impressed. LARGE improvement over any factory sound. And they don't weigh very much either, all things considered. No wood.

The Infinity basslink is also a great choice. But stay away from Boss.
Old 09-30-2011, 03:35 PM
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Thanks guys, think I might go with a basslink down the line.
Just bought the Infinity Tweeters, but uh...

one question... the tweeter looks like this... how am i supposed to connect the infinity tweeters? i don't suppose they have the right connecters? do i have to tap the wires or what? sorry for being a noob.
Old 09-30-2011, 11:14 PM
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Is the question too dumb? lol
Old 10-01-2011, 12:09 AM
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I cut off the connector and used crimp-on snap connectors.
Old 10-01-2011, 08:17 AM
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I'd remove the black cloth, then just strip the insulation on the wires back. Use a pick to poke a hole in each wire to form an eye. Then splice in your own wire for the tweeters and solder. Heatshrink would be ideal, but quality 3M electrical tape would be acceptable as well. This method is super secure and still keeps the connector intact for re-installation of the factory tweeter.
Old 10-01-2011, 07:49 PM
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bought this http://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Harnes...7516527&sr=8-3
guess it works the same?
Old 10-02-2011, 01:41 PM
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nahh not gonna work. Not the same connector.
Old 10-03-2011, 04:04 PM
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yea it didn't... it was already too late when u replied lol...

and... sorry for being a noob again.
how did you guys mount it on there?
none of the brackets work

Last edited by dezau; 10-03-2011 at 04:08 PM.
Old 10-03-2011, 04:16 PM
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Mine was tight enough fit that it just stayed in place. The tweeter is pushed pretty tight once installed back in the vehicle. It has no where to go. But if it's a real loose fit, I'd use a dab of hot glue.
Old 10-04-2011, 10:12 PM
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So it seems like I was making too much of a deal out of it. The install was really simple.
Cut the wires off of the speakers, strip the wires, insert into the 10.9t. Hot glue 10.9t and Voila!

And for those who are thinking abt upgrading their stereo. This $50 is definitely the best investment I've had for a while lol (mind u, i do buy a lot of useless ****)
It just sounds SO MUCH clearer.

On stock, I had to put it to +1 Bass/ +2 Treble to make it sound acceptable.
Now I'm on +0/+0

Don't think I'm gonna do anything else to it now. It sounds just right to me. If else, a little less bass is preferred, I'll try -1/+0 tmr.

Cheers.
Thanks for those who've tried to input on this thread.
Old 10-04-2011, 10:15 PM
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Told ya so
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