Ok so i have a 2004 base modle 8 with OEM 1 disc CD player thats it.
Got 4g wire running with a 200w fuse from my battery to a 350w amp then to a compacitor and to a 1,000w mono amp that pushing a 12" sub. The rest of the wireing is all 8g or smaller like speaker wire.

Now about a month back i got the new e40 CD ya hearing me and was kinda crunk had the radio turned up to 18 (hey it sounds good) and i think i blowz the 12". No big whop i got a nother one in going to swap out after I'm done typing this.

Heres what the Radio/CD player will do now.
When the Radio is on the sound will cut out for like one minute or sometimes up to five with no sound. Now when this happens when i'm playing a CD you can see the minutes rolling like the CD is playing but no sound

So could it be the 12" is gone? or the CD/Radio player is going out?

Reason I ask; I have never killed a 12" before.

However on my last Car 2004 AT (same kind of CD player) modle RX-8, the CD player did the same thing before it was replaced under warrenty.

Thanks!

 

Not an audio expert here, so I'm confused where you say you have an Amp, then a capacitor, then another Amp in the same wiring run. Please clarify...

I'd guess that the cutting out of sound for 1-5 minutes is something to do with a protection circuit breaker (or thermal fuse).

Check your wiring. Something is drawing too much power.

(and the problem may be your choice of music - damn kids - try listening to something like ABBA at a lower volume)

 

I do paly abab at low volumes "Lay all your love on me" and the samething happens???
Where can I find this THERMAL FUSE you speak of? or what fuse's can i check?
Thanks

 

Most all amps have protection circuits. You would have to check the owner's manuals for their location and what conditions trigger them.

The protection might also be originating from the the stock head unit.


Questions:

The way you wrote your post, all of the speakers are wired into your 350w amp?
Your car is non-Bose, right?
Are they the stock speakers/aftermarket?
What is the impedance of the speakers?
What about the crossover from the 350w amp to the sub-amp?



Here's what I would quickly do to try to isolate the various systems.

1) unplug the head unit from your first amp. Unplug the Sub-amp and Cap from the power.

(borrow) Plug in an old car stereo to the amp with a couple of RCA patch cords. Play music. If the sound cuts out, then it's your amp. If it work fine, then it's the factory head unit.

If not, then re-plug in the Sub-amp, etc. and test.

This could be something as simple as the crossover levels from your amp to the Sub amp. Check them.

Good luck.


If nothing else, then at least you've narrowed the problem so others can help.

 

1-All but the 12" supbs.
2-Yup
3-All aftermarket speakers
4-Dont know but I can tell ya when I get home tonight around 12am lol
5-The corssover, well i got the power 4g wire running from the battery to the compacitor then to the 350w amp then to the compacitor then to the other 1,000w amp.

I will post pics of my set up when I get home from work. I got tons of light by my house/car port.
-Gil

 

Why are you running two capacitors?

Before and after Amp?

 

Dude I'm not. I never said that jsut came out wrong. Its hard to read unless you have a system set up the right way. I got tons of help from Jarred in Orange CA.
With out him I could not have done it.

It turned out to be a lose ground wire to the back seat that was lose and moving around.

Thanks for the help guys!!!