Here my switch

 

Okay, I got my board today. Now I need some big help putting it together. I thought it would be more straight forward, but it looks more complex than I originally thought. I circled the parts that need to be soldered. There's a little Letter/Number combo in each one. Let me know if you can help me decipher them.

J1 - Power Supply - which one is pos and which one is neg ?

J2/7 - Audio In/Out - Do I need this ? What does this do ?

J3 - Video In - This goes to a composite video. Is the outside the ground ?

J4 - Sync Out - do I send the "NORM" to the S wire in "RGBS" ? Do I need to ground GND ?

J5 - RGB OUT (HIGH) - Not used right ? I use (75) and not (high) correct ?

J6 - RBG OUT (75) - R-R, G-G, B-B, GND to ground, right ? This will go to my switch, which will eventually go to my LCD, Correct ?

JP1 - CENTER ? - Any ideas ? Do I want "+" or "G" or neither ?

JP2 - Looks like (75) is short. I want to short this right ?

R21 - Any ideas ? I have no clue what this does.

 

I'll do my best without taking my unit out of my car.

The centre contact is PROBABLY positive. Check the resistsance from the outer contact to one of the "ground" points on the board -- it ought to be zero ohms or damned close to it. If it's not, then check the centre contact to the "ground" point. Whichever one is zero ohms is the negative and the other one is the positive. Mine was hard-wired and didn't have the connector. You ought to be able to just look at the traces on the PC board and trace out which one goes to "ground". Ground is negative and the other is positive.

This isn't needed since you aren't running audio through the converter. Ignore it.

If you mean the outer shell of the connector on your cable to the DVD player, yes, that's ground. Connect both the inner conductor (to the "video in" point) and the outer shield braid (to the "ground" point by the "video in" point) very well and be careful not to have any bits of stray wire hanging loose or going across the terminal points.

Yes, I believe the "NORM" is what you use. No, you don't have to use that ground point. We'll get to that later.

I think this is correct.

Correct. The R, G, and B go to the normally open contacts of your relay. The sync goes there too. That's why you need a 4-pole relay. The ground leads just all tie together -- you don't need to switch them. Take ONE ground point from your board (the negative power lead will do, but I'd prefer to use a lead that is soldered to the board) and connect it to the negative wire from your battery (black wire on the nav connector IIRC). Don't connect the negative lead of the power connector if you use a ground point on the board -- ONE OR THE OTHER -- this is important.

Leave both of these the way they are. If there are problems we can try different configurations, but it ought to work the way it comes.

Ignore it. it's not used in this application.

 

good luck with that you will have to adjust the frequency's too...which, from what antichristpm says...is hell

 

Not for going from a composite video (eg. DVD player) to an RGB video signal.
Antichristpm was going from a VGA (or SVGA -- either way, from a computer) to an RGB signal. Different application.

 

waht is the application...i read posts, but can not find a concrete answer SOME ONE PLEASE!!

 

oh my god...is my search over:
vga to rgbs
http://www.converters.tv/products/co...erters/40.html
tell me yes
PLEASE!
now i need a switch...vga switch should work

 

that seems to just be RGB (probably HV) not RGBs can someone confirm this thanks

 

My application is for composite video to RGBS. Nothing fancy. Any ideas on a good place to get power ? SHould I just splice off the nav system power and ground ?

 

That's what I did. Just spliced off the power leads to the nav unit. No problems.
Check my website. (in sig)

 

i am now selling the External input oem unit with my AV boxes. as a kit

 

Took me a while to get around to it again, but I got my board to work yesterday. I spent about $35 stuff (switches, wiring, connectors) in addition to the $100 for the Composite to RGBS board. I put connectors on it so I can take it out easily.

And I did have to short JP2, the one I wasn't sure about.

I grounded on the Nav system. Same place as where the Nav ground plugs in.

I had one issue - I took power off the Acc line. And I blew a few fuses. The Mazda3 has a 7.5Amp fuse as stock. I blew that. Then I blew a 15Amp fuse. Then a 20. Now I have a 30 in there. Is that bad ? Does it seem like I'm doing something wrong ? I thought the board only draws 1-2 amps, but I'm thinking it may draw more initially.

 

something is wrong...the avelectronics box only take 3 watts I believe

I can run the av box, dvd player, and more and the fuse doesn't blow

the board you have may be dysfunctional

 

yes.. take that out !
you have an isuue ! yoy system should still run on the oem 7.5 amp.. you have a short.

 

let me point out that rshan just bought some random board, this has nothing to do with the composite or svideo edition of the avelectronics switcher that thew at rx8garage.net sells

 

I'm using the same board that rshan is using. No, it should not draw that much current.
Rshan, check out your wiring and each component individually -- you have a big problem there! No, it's not just initial surge current.

 

Oh.... That's not good.

 

How do I check to see how much current it is using ? Should I check out the resistance or something ? If there's a short, wouldn't there be a low resistance ?

 

here you go... DIY finally, sorry it took so long: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-s-video-into-nav-av-electronic-video-switcher-install-44095/