I'm planning on doing the same thing. One connection for my Omnifi and one for my gf's iPod.

~ Matt

 

Just make sure you have one input off at all times. Both on at the same time could produce some strange results.

 

Just a quick update...

OverLOAD is on vacation, so I've been taking care of some of the AuxMod stuff until he returns. I am his good friend who is working with him on the project. We completed a somewhat sizable run of the units just before he left, and I am trying like mad to get through the waitlist. The Mazda tape connector sourcing and mass production are still some of the difficulties we are working to overcome. It's not easy getting these small time SMD production facilities on board. We'll keep you updated.

Thanks,

SimpleFix

andrewg@sylfex.com

 

Are people using shielded or unshielded cables? Do you find there's whine with unshielded cables? I've tried a couple shielded cables, but this particular store must have some really shoddy equipment, because one channel cuts in and out, depending on how you wiggle the cable (!).

6ft long shielded seems hard to come by for some reason, so i don't mind trying unshielded, just so long as I don't get whine.. thoughts?

 

on my install I've been using high end RCA cables...equivalent to Monster's top of the line(without paying an arm and a leg for their brand name ).

With the aux module from overload it is using a headphone jack...their is a very high probability for interference do to the poor quality standard of that type of jack.

Personally if I were you I'd desolder the headphone jack on the board and solder two higher quality...lower gauge wires straight to the seperate left and right contact points on the board...then lacquer (you can use nail polish :D). This will guarantee the jack won't give you any more problems. Plus then you can have RCAs from the get go (like the beta version of the aux mod).

 

Here are some cables I'm thinking about getting. They are Monster, but even though they are THX certified, they really aren't that expensive. 8' long, too.

Clicky!

~ Matt

 

Careful of that elbow, Matt. My cable from Radio Shack was a straight shot into the Auxmod (6' Gold-Plated Shielded Cable, RadioShack Catalog #: 42-2607), and the bend in the Monster cable you're getting might be a problem. I think it is okay, but be sure to check "the fitment" first.

 

Thanks for the heads up! I'm actually going to split the signal first with one of these. I am a little worried about splitting and potentially compromising the sound a little bit, but on the other hand, if I need two signals in, I'm not sure what other options I have. At worst, I'll experiment and see what sounds good.

~ Matt

 

So, how's it going? My "system" is ready to go...except for the AuxMod.

~ Matt

 

i dont know where you are in line, but when you get the email they are quick. i got the email the 9th. paypaled 3am that night. got it today the 11th.

i am very impressed.

beers

 

Hi Swoope!

We aim to please. Thanks for the positive comment. We're trying to do this whole gig so that everyone is happy.

We've got some plans to get a larger production run happening soon, which should take care of most of the wait-listed people. I was hoping that we would be able to get some extra modules, but it looks like they'll mostly be taken up by the wait list. At some point soon, I think we're going to have to end the wait list. It's really too time consuming to manage. We'll continue as is for now.

We're starting to look more at what we're going to do about the ground loops some people are reporting, and we have some ideas for what we'll do to fix it, as well as moving ahead with more progress for AuxMod Advanced.

We've also successfully tested several more vehicles. Things are moving ahead!

Regards,

OverLOAD

 

yes,
it got here just in time for me to install the carputer, xm radio. touchscreen panel in dash, but i leave for mexico on thur. i have just been taunted. anyway i have all the parts now.

and i will say again you could teach a lot of people in the trade about getting it there.

i am glad you took your time, and i hope i have no ground looping issues.

beers

btw i know what # i was which impresses me even more.

 

Huhwha and Vaillant -

If you want a professional solution to the multiple audio input problem use an audio selector switch. There are several on the market but I'm using the SoundGate AUX3. It is a three input analog audio switch that works just fine in my RX-8. I installed it before a PIE RCA adapter but it should work just as well with Overload's AUX-IN adapter. If you search the Internet you can find it reasonably priced. I really like the phone sound coming through the Mazda radio because the hands free adapter's speaker just isn't loud enough for my aging ears.

I have 3 inputs (SAT radio, iPod, and Motorola bluetooth hands free phone adapter) all connected to my AUX3 switch. Any one of the sources can be selected via a small dash mounted 3 position (0/I/II) selector switch.

The actual audio does not run through the dash mounted selector switch. The switch drives relays in the AUX3 system box to accomplish the audio switching. The selected audio channels are transformer coupled to avoid DC paths and eliminate the AUX3 from being a contributor to ground loops.

Because my Motorola Bluetooth hands free phone kit has an optional radio mute control wire, I decided to make a slight mod by adding a 12 volt DPDT relay that overrides the Soundgate AUX3 selector switch, forcing the AUX3 to AUTOMATICALLY switch to the phone source whenever I receive or place a phone call. The relay can easily be wired between the SoundGate AUX3 dash mounted selector switch and the main AUX3 box (I put my relay in the AUX3 box itself).

As long as I'm listening to the SAT radio or my iPod (for me, 99% of the time), switching to phone is totally automatic. :D

 

Rx-Appreci-8,

Thanks for the heads-up. Sounds great for your application. I don't wanna talk to anybody - I'm havin' fun driving - leave a message at the beep and I'll ignore it later.

Huhwha

 

Where I am in line...well, if it was a train, I'd probably be in the caboose, if it was a snake, I'd be in the rattler, if it was...well, you get the picture. I'm pretty near the end, I imagine, though I don't actually know quite how long the line really is.

Anyway, I'm excited that after all the hard work and development that it is finally coming out and I'm glad that there is so much interest, thereby making it worthwhile for OverLOAD. I've got an Omnifi DMP1 that's ready to go into the car, so I'm just excited and impatient to get things going. The mp3s are loaded, the rest of the cables are purchased, so now I just need a way to make the sound go from the DMP1 to the Mazda head unit.

~ Matt

 

Thanks! I'll look into it!

~ Matt

 

link?????

beers

 

link
http://www.soundgate.com/index.php?r...categoryid=27&

I did a websearch and found many distributors for this product with far more detailed information and a wide range of prices. I paid approx $20 less than list price.

There may be several manufacturers out there with similar products.

 

OverLOAD - to get rid of the ground loop, it was suggested that I try grounding my XM radio to the metal chassis of the head unit. I haven't gotten around to removing the head unit for the second time yet to do this, but I was thinking it would be even better to just connect a tap to the ground wire coming out of the head unit. Can you tell me which wire on which connector this would be?

Thanks,
-Jerry

 

If you use Froogle or another comparison shopper, it can be found for about $40, BUT it appears to be sold out right now. Still, it looks like a good solution that I'd pay $40 for, but I'm not sure about $60.

~ Matt

 

Is this available yet? how can I get this or is it still in the works? 70 pages and I'm still not sure

 

It's available for waitlisted people.

Check out: http://www.sylfex.com/products/AuxMod/

 

The ground loop isn't going to be fixed by shortening up the loop path through the radio. The radio ground is electrically connected to the Chassis, and therefore the outer ring of the cigarette lighter.

The ground loop causes noise by causing a differential in the reference voltage of ground at the two different devices, driven by changing current sources such as the alternator, and other high current devices.

The best and probably only ways to eliminate a ground loop is:1) eliminate the differential between the two device grounds, or 2) use a true differential input on the audio source through either a transformer isolator, or a conditioning amplifier stage.

#1 can possibly be improved by grounding the chassis together, but they already are, so the improvement would most likely be next to nothing. The reason the ground reference differences are causing the noise is because of the processing circuitry and power conditioning of the powre supply and amplifier stage in the device supplying the audio. Additional capacitance between the two devices will only make the noise worse, so an extra wire may even make it worse.

#2 We've tested transformers & differential amplifiers, and they make a substantial improvement the to noise level.

Power conditioning on the source device may also improve the signal, but power supplies can be very difficult and expensive to improve substantially.

Regards,

OverLOAD

 

Alright so i'm waiting for my ordered AUXmod, it can arrive any day now. What can you advice me to do to prevent getting that ground loop problem? I would like to open my HU only once... (In normal english please, i'm not a mechanic )

 

Can you tell me us deep you are into the waiting list and where I am on the list? (dfn8lyme2001@yahoo.com) I'm taking a two week road trip to Montreal starting May 27th and would LOVE to have the card installed by then.

Dfn8lyME