Lenbo

iTrader: (1)

I've been doing a few searches, and haven't really found a "solution", so to speak...

I have a low end Bazooka EL1014p and a Street Edge (very entry-level Memphis) 16-SE2.50.

The sub is 4-ohm, the amp is bridged, giving the sub a claimed 140w RMS @ 4-ohm.

Unfortunately, it's been 105+ the bulk of summer and my amp has started cutting out due to overheating. Suck!

I'm using this as an excuse to purchase a new amp (and sub, bwahaha), but I'm not sure what I should get.

The amp has to be able to handle the heat (either due to quality design or some active cooling), but can't be insanely expensive.

I've noticed people (during my searches) suggest the Alpine PDX series, but I don't know that I have $499 retail for a worthwhile amp.

I actually like the idea of the Polk PA330 and the Polk DXi 104. I can find them new and cheap, and I've always been a Polk fan. Unfortunately I don't know how well the PA330 would handle excessive heat. A local audio shop is really pushing their JL W1's and a similar Memphis amp, but I haven't mentioned the heat problem (as I haven't been back to the shop since this started becoming an issue.

I know just about anything will sound better than the Bazooka/Street Edge combo I have, but I want clean and solid sound more than I want boomy sound. I have never been one to obnoxiously broadcast my music/bass to everyone else, and the setup I have has been at least sufficient to make up for the lack of low-end the stock Bose had. My current setup is a bit anemic on the lower end (of the bass range) but does fill in decently enough.

I am very open to suggestions and opinions on the Polk/Polk setup. Again, heat tolerance and my wallet are the key factors! :D

Therum

I cant speak for any of the other amps. But I have a pdx1.600 and it works fine. Even though I rarely drive my 8 but when I do. I choose dos equis. I mean. I dont have any issues. I used to run my Xtant 1001dx but it took up too much room. Where the PDX amps are less than half the size.

WikkedOne

The Alpine PDX amps are INCREDIBLE with heat - I have a 1.1000 and a 4.150 - both have less than 2 inches space between the amp and the sub box for over 3 years and I've never had one overheat (or even get that hot to the touch)

They are designed to be able to stack on top of eachother and not overheat

click the subs in my sig for a pic.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

haha Xtant. Haven't heard much from them in years. Almost forgot about them. Their website shows they're making amps with wood grain finishes

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

I'd suggest a class D amp vs the more standard class A/B. Class D is vastly more efficient which means they self-generate very little heat by comparison. For a virgin installation, one can also get by with smaller gauge power wiring which simplifies things considerably. My modestly powered 200W/300W Kenwood requires only 10 ga wire.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

self-generate huh

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

Yes. Heat coming from the amp itself, which one can do something about, not from the outside, which one cannot. Although having said that, they typical amp installation in the well of the trunk is closest to the muffler and hence likely the hottest area.

From wikipedia: "Compared to class-AB operation, class D's lower losses permit the use of a smaller heat sink for the MOSFETS while also reducing the amount of AC power supply power required. Thus, class-D amplifiers do not need as large or as heavy power supply transformers or heatsinks, so they are smaller and more compact in size than an equivalent class-AB amplifier."

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

So what would it mean for an amp to externally-generate heat?

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

I believe my suggestion and the reason for it is clear for those who wish it to be. At least I, Wikkedone, and Therum have made some attempt to address the concerns of the original poster, which you, to this point, have not. Whatever.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Ouch. I was just pointing out what I thought to be a bit of an oxymoron. Settle down killer.

Lenbo

iTrader: (1)

Well, here's an update...

Being as awesome as they are, my local audio shop didn't just sell me an amplifier. We walked through the various possibilities and found out that it wasn't a thermal issue. I had a lackluster ground. My lead to lead ohm reading was .8-.9, my original ground was like... 5ohms. Haha. I fixed the issue, and now my ground reads a solid .9 on the meter (which, considering that the leads themselves read about .9 my ground is basically 0).

Well, got that sorted and started "hammering" the system. About 3 miles of driving, it actually went into protection mode. Oops! We thought maybe it had a bad sub. I popped out the credit card and got a JL W1.

Well, the amp started cutting out again. Naturally, I am agitated. Just to eliminate my LOC from the issue, I actually got a 3.5mm splitter, plugged it into my phone, plugged a 3.5mm to RCA cable into my phone and the amp, put an FM modulator on and listened to music and Pandora from my phone. Actually sounded better and didn't cut out once.

I don't know if something with the stock Bose nonsense ruined the LOC (PAC SNI-15) but the LOC paired with a shady sub seemed to be my problems. The amp is apparently fine. Now, I still plan on getting either a Alpine PDX-2.150 or a JL XD300/1, but that's going to come after I sort out the signal issues.

I guess I could get another LOC, but I'm using this as an excuse to get some sort of touch screen head unit. I have my eye on the Pioneer AVH-P4300DVD as they can be found for less than $400 now... The wife actually offered to spend $299 on one of those two amps, but I figure I can come up with the difference in that and what she offered for the head unit, which would eliminate the need for an LOC.

...but what do you guys think?*:D