I received my LC-1 and XD-1 yesterday from innovatemotorsports.com . I also ordered the heat sink bung extender (HBX-1) since rotarys run hot (also adding a copper heat sink later).
My shop had already installed an O2 bung when I last had it dyno'd so I went ahead and put it in.
First I test fitted the O2 cable up to the engine bay on the passenger side. (I believe the cable may be long enough to run it up through the driver side and keep it cooler, which I will try to do in a few days.) Then I ran the LC-1 harness through the firewall and connected the power to it. Next came the gauge and putting it in my pod from evo-r.net. It's a 52mm gauge but the edges wouldn't clear my pod hole. I dremeled just enough to make it fit. Powered the gauge and connected the LC-1 to the XD-1 gauge.
The last step is programming both units. Pics of it are at idle. Took it for a spin around the block and it looks to be reading correctly.

 

more pics

 

I'm right behind you. Mine shipped today

 

PM me if you want a 4x4 copper sheet to use as an additional heat sink. I'll have extra sheets in a couple of days.
I'm worried about how hot the LC-1 will get in that position. The cable clears the turbo easily but the actual unit will get hot quick. I'll try through the drivers side soon.


SELLING MY OLD EGT GAUGE ...

 

So, the 4x4 sheet goes around the controller, right? Have you looked at running the cables up behind the transmission, farther back?

 

The 4x4 sheets go between the exhaust and O2 sensor. It supposed to absorb the heat and the fins will be cooled by the air passing by, thus keeping the actual O2 sensor cooler. (see pic)

I'm planning on routing the cables over the transmission and up the drivers side (by the oil dipstick). I think I had 3 ft left over inside the cabin that I have to work with.

 

Where did you pull power from?

 

Cigarette lighter in center dash. It's 12V when the car is on (or accessory) and 0V when ignition is off.

 

nice mod
really clean looking

 

Mine arrived today, but I am in the process of moving, so it will be awhile before I can get it installed. Quality looks superb.

 

guys, sorry if I sound like a noob, but I'd like to ask what's the deal with these things? can someone explain with a few words?
I found this thread from "The Interceptor-X for N/A Cars" discussion, but I dont have the time to sit back and read 10 or more pages...:o
ok, I see its an air/fuel gauge for starters, but does it really give the car more power in its NA form? is tuning required like the CZ unit? people keep on talking about dynos, thats why I'm asking...

ps oh and... adrian those gauges look great in the dark

 

The Microtech - Interceptor-X hybrid can chase a user definable AFR with the input from a separate wide band such as the LC-1.

It will also allow you to fine tune your existing CZ maps if so equipped with the software Logworks that comes with it. If you are going FI in the future, you for sure should have one installed. For me, I'm staying N/A for awhile, so I will use it to tune my Interceptor once Scott posts some results. The Ausie's have already proven 18KW, so this looks promising.

 

From the thread you mentioned, I asked: "Scott, will I be able to chase a certain AFR if I have a separate wideband O2 sensor in place?" He replied with:

 

Hey Adrian.You think that the heat sink bung extender (HBX-1) is really necessary,or you just went overkill?

REgards,

Stathis

 

I think it's necessary due to the high exhaust temps in rotarys. I'm actually adding a 2nd heat sink (copper plate mentioned above) just to make sure the sensor doesn't die on me. I'll probably do that this weekend and post a pic.

Another member, Mazdamaniac, went through alot of senors before getting rid of his cat and going with a catless midpipe and installing the sensor further downstream.

I didn't want to get a catless pipe due to TX inspections and the louder sound.

 

Nemesis, thanks for the response...
Adrian, drilling a hole on your RP cat, doesn't it affect its functionality? I'm asking 'cause I have the same cat...

 

Nope, as long as the bung has a plug or O2 sensor installed it'll work the same.

 

Did you get your copper plate made? If not let me know.

 

I have 9 4x4in cooper plates sitting in my garage. Just need to drill the hole and bend the edges and install it. May have some free time this weekend.

 

I drilled the hole and bent the edges on the copper plate. I used an O2 socket with a slit to tighten it.

I have a few extra copper plates and will sell them for $8 shipped (in US). PM me if interested.

 

pic of extra heatsinks.

 

Looks textbook perfect

 

I had some time this weekend and ran the LC-1 over the transmission instead of having the cable go by the turbo and the unit in the engine bay. It shouldn't get as hot now, I also wrapped it with heat tape. I zip tied the unit to a heatshield right next to the starter. The extra 3ft of cable was just enough.

 

Still have an extra copper heat shield you want to part with?

 

Sent you a PM with the info.