I for sure want to do at least 2 12's I am not to worried about weight or space...

 

My point is this.... if you get a high quality 12" and power it with a really good high current amp you can have the best of both worlds. Your set up can be every bit as loud as 2 mid quality 12's, with better sq and more space left over. I have seen some single 12" set ups that are so loud it is uncomfortable to be in the vehicle, how much louder does anyone need to be? I understand that for some space/weight is not an issue, but if you can have your cake and eat it too, why not go for it? This car is just no set up well for a really loud sound system (not impossible, just heavy mod and lots of cost involved). If you are looking to dump $5000-6000, then maybe you could end up with something that hits like crazy and still sounds decent. In my experience most will drop $1500 on a few decent subs and a run of the mil amp and end up with something that doesn't sound all that great. The bottom line is that good sound=$$$, and if you are talking a 12X2 set up in an RX8 it is a lot of $$$. Instead why not go with a reasonable set up that will sound good.

 

did you check out the sub choices I gave a few post back the spl and the fusion. Both look to be good subs. I have heard the fusion nv 15 and it sounds amazing...

 

I did. They all look pretty stout. I have never heard them so I can't say about the sq/spl, but their stats look impressive. I didn't see prices on the site, are they reasonable? If you have heard them and you are happy with their performance and price then go for it. Bottom line....if you want two 12's in your trunk then do it. I just don't think you will see much of a difference between two mid quality 12's and one high quality 12. All this assumes that you get a good amp (actually more important in many ways). What are you looking for to power your set up?

 

Two 12"s in a properly built vented enclosure in the 8 should require fiberglass.... entirely possible, and would be damn loud. But only if properly executed. The installation is going to dictate your final outcome more-so than the gear itself. You want to use Fusion? Fine. Just spend the money/time to get a proper box built. Just FYI if you didnt pick that up from my last post.

 

I may just go with a zenclosure box IDK yet though cuz it prolly wont be big enough. And I am looking into a hifonics brutus amp more then likely. And as for the prices of the subs I can get 2 12's from both name brands for around $300 through my friend.

 

I totally agree about the box/install being very important. In order to get the full potential out of the 2 12 set up you would require a lot of power. I'm thinking 1000 rms, sound about right??? In our car that would require some electrical system mods (new alternator at a min?). I think the stock alt is only rated for 100 amps, I think you would be in danger of hurting the car or your set up unless you upgraded. Lots of cost involved there.

 

**** I was gonna go with the Hifonics BXi2006 2000W RMS Mono Block Class D 1 Ohm Stable Amp. I never thought about the alternator forgot all about that dang does anyone know for sure if I will have to upgrade that... Do you think a big cap would do it?

 

Unless I missed it I don't see it's power draw (fuse rating??) listed, but IMO you would have to upgrade to get just about any 1000 watt rms amp to sound good. No a cap wouldn't do much, those are for show IMO. I have never had a cap so my opinion my be moot.

For amps you have to understand a few things. I am an audio guy, I love loud clear sound, and have been building home/car systems since I got my first job. It took me a long time to understand one of the most important things about sound. That thing you get to run your speakers is called an AMPlifier, not a WATTifier. WATTs (a measure of power) are nice, but good sound is a function of AMPs (a measure of current).

If you understand the way electricity works you know that power is a lot easier to come by than current. That is why all these companies measure their amps by the watts they are capable of outputting. BTW...the way they test them and rate them has very little in common with what you will see in your car. If you look close to their specs you will see that they are usually rated at 14.5 vrms input, and you will NEVER give an amp that in your car (alt just wont do it). Long story short when you give your amp 11.5 vrms or 12 if you are luck you are already loosing lots of power over what they are claiming.

I am not really sure I am making sense. I work electronics for a living so this is hard to explain.

BTW this is exactly why I run the JL /1 series amp in my car. JL amps are built to overcome this. Don't ask me how, cuz it is too complicated, but the bottom line is they push exactly what they are rated every time. I only have a 250 in my car and it is louder than most 500-1000 watt set ups (doesn't hurt that it is a hatchback, and I spent a ton on a good box/install).

Long winded again. Let me know if this makes sense.

 

My friend who is doing the install was just tellin me the same thing haha. IDK what I want to do I might just wait till I have a little more money who knows.

 

After talkin to a guy who is in love with soundstream I think I am going to go ahead and go with a complete soundstream setup... I am going to probably go with 2 12” soundstream t5, Soundstream Picasso PCA2000D Amplifier, and I am not sure what cap yet...

 

Forget the cap... you're gonna need the big 3 with that setup. This horse has been beaten too many times...

 

4 10s for crazy loud! And crazy loud can sound great. But be willing to spend a real nice amount of money to get any decent set-up to sound great. Be ready to replace all speakers as well!

 

2 12" alpine type r's, over 2 ohms, with a hifonics brutus amp=beast

 

2 years + 6 months = dead thread revival

 

id go 2 10s, 10s tend to hit alot cleaner or just get one crazy 12 like a kicker l7 or a jl w7

 

one 12 is good enough. just pick the right twelve FI BTL will shake the freakin house down. i've seen two of their lower quality subs blow out the moulding in a 97 civic hatch.