Thermostat temp is 180 I believe ... pretty sure its in the 178 - 182 range if not

but you are TURBOOOOOO

I'll prolly lower them soon enough

SO here are my datalogs with the NA working map from today .... I don't think the Long Term fuel trims have settled yet ... I have completed like 3 drive cycles since flashing to the new map ... it was from a miata cruise ... it was kinda cool ... the crowd were nice, but a bit too slow for me ;)

Before you started your own tune, did you attempt the MAF calibration?

Edit: I meant to ask, what method did you use to scale the MAF...

^ I am kinda confused ... I am STILL calibrating my MAF

I am just using my LTFT for now .... once they are within +-3% (hopefully after this iteration) I am going to flatten my tables out, make sure I am in open loop and use Kane's method


Currently, I am also doing it in REALLY small increments

Otherwise, I am picking up my turbo kit this weekend (greddy turbo) and hopefully this will allow me to be confident enough to set-up a turbo base map on my own until I get get dyno tuned

For anyone reading this, I cannot emphasize how much I recommend this https://www.rx8club.com/mazdamaniac-183/rx-8-accessport-tuning-webcast-seminar-173014/page12/ ... it gave me the confidence to attempt what I am doing now

I read the MAF calibration help file in ATR, and it looks easier than I first thought. Kane has a good handle on it also. It's awesome you are attempting this. I'm running my own PTM for awhile, because I needed to tweak the dwell for my BHR coils. Waiting for MM's first iteration calibration file to arrive. Yep, I restarted an e-tune with MM while I study ATR and wait for the next webinar class. Maybe I will join you one day soon!

:p:

While this might be playing it safe it is probably preventing you from seeing the real world effects of the changes you make .

Does MM go over all the maps you need to rescale etc for FI in his seminar ?

Absolutely, MM goes over everything

.... Nemesis it will be a good day when you do. This forum seriously lacks people attempting their own tunning

If you take more than two or three broad swipes at tweaking the MAF, you are fiddling with it too much.
Remember, there are only 3 effective load cells, so once you establish the base curve, you need only move those three ranges en masse. If you are playing with individual values or small groups of values, you are doing it wrong (for several reasons).

interesting . Sounds like I'm doing the same thing you do . I think a few people on here have led others to believe it is a complicated thing to do when it really isn't .

It just takes a careful understanding of where the break-points are and what a given amount of correction means to the resultant CL. I almost always get the MAF right on the first calibration update. It should only take one good datalog.

Ganbatte, Stinky. Ganbatte!!

bow chicka bow wow ... this is gonna get interesting


I am gonna take a break from tunning while I get these three books, gauges, and all the parts needed to make this kit reliable ....

since as MM said ... I am having some misunderstandings

http://www.amazon.com/Street-Turboch...6227403&sr=8-4

http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Managem...d_bxgy_b_img_c

http://www.amazon.com/Turbo-Real-Wor...d_bxgy_b_img_b


my goal with the turbo is a reliable 240 - 250 whp @ like 5 psi .... for now

Don't bother with those (though the Warner book is nice, if for no other reason than I am mention in it by name).
Get these:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...SH20_OU01_.jpg

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...SH20_OU01_.jpg

^ Thanks. Been looking for some good reading material.

very modest goals - makes a lot of sense to do it this way ;)

Anyway ... I am back guys. I have realized that I am getting a bit over my head with the turbo build. Therefore, I am focusing on prepping the car for turbo 1st. This includes cleaning and flowtesting injectors, cleaning SSV, spark plugs, BHR (just installed), oil pan, catch can and gauges.

Turbo install will be mid Feb.

For now, while my car is NA, I am going to practice getting my MAF calibrated as that will be the first thing I will need to do that when I am FI, but I will not have any room for silly mistakes in FI...

So here be go .... I am starting with Cruise Calibration. MAF x 1.1 (10%) and .25 - .69 load in gears 3 - 6 are set to 13.5 afr. OL is set to kick in at 3k rpm

Attached is the map. Let me know if you need me to provide it in a form other than AccessTuner.


FOR the newbs ... I am talking about the flat area in the screenshot

The question is how long can one stick to those self imposed limits, especially when a boost controller makes it so easy... :)

until one gets a DD

A wise path indeed

Why did you bump the MAF 1.1?

Also, if you are NA looking for tuning heads up, work on injector scales. Since your maf will be off again when you change housings. They both work together so it is a bit of a catch 22.

I am sending my injectors out to get cleaned and flow tested when I get my UIM off ... so I will know what they are flowing and not need to rescale them? Can I rely on that?

I forgot to mention that I completely restarted from stock MAF as I had made too many changes with one on top of another that I did not feel like digging through. My LTFT were 10 - 12% across the board on stock tune, so I scaled up 10% from stock

As for scaling my MAF and injectors at the same time, I am afraid of chasing my tail too much. Furthermore, over 66k miles, my injectors ALONE can account for 10% deviation as they can be 10% dirty right?

I feel that sending out injectors for cleaning and flow testing is the best way to get them scaled.... I am also toying with the idea of upgrading to blue A/T injectors for P2 and tossing the red ones (ie moving the yellow to the primary location)....

http://www.discountfuelsystems.com/s...ry,universal:0)

question: Can I rely on the refurbished injectors to flow what they should OR should I ideally get those flow tested AS WELL?

I want to go for refurbed cause I don't think the price of new vs refurbed justifies new ... or does it? What's your opinion?

Tell me if I am being perfectionist ... I know that you can never have an IDEAL tune, but I want to get as close to ideal as possible by minimizing the variables

I am definitely looking for heads up and I will be NA until mid Feb ... thanks for all the help! I really appreciate it. Kane if you are ever on the East Coast, I owe you a case of beer! Also, thanks for recently adding me on FB (Dre Z)

Have run this way for a year now - has worked very well despite advice to the contrary .

What is the advice to the contrary?

Also, what about the diaphragm set-up of the stock fueling system, at what power, or fuel flow level would a return system be required? I guess, the answer is above what has been achieved on the Renesis?

What would you say the comfortable power limit of the stock injectors is?

What about the yellow, yellow, blue set-up? When (power wise, not reliability wise) I run into fuel pump issues and need to upgrade?

BHR website: " fundamental issue that the OE pump is designed to just barely fulfill the fueling requirements for 250 – 300 HP and probably only does so for a short period of time. Additionally, the OE siphon system will only continue to work as long as the pump is surpassing the fuel demands of the motor. As soon as its output is below demand, the siphon will stop working again. If you are racing and in a high-G left hand turn while accelerating in a high-output RX-8, you will almost immediately starve the pump.<br />
The 09+ assembly addresses some of the siphon issues, but is still designed to provide about 115 lph. A 350 HP+ Renesis will need closer to 200 lph"

I know this has been covered, but it's late.....

MM advised that it doesn't work due to incorrect ratio between P1 and Secs but for me it has worked fine :dunno:

Don't know , but the stock setup has worked for me to 350whp .

300whp is not really "comfortable" but certainly do-able .

I ran out of fuel at 350whp with that setup so comfortable will be around 300-310 .


It's not so much the capacity of the pump that is the issue it's the "spare capacity" . The stock pump is deficient in certain situations but fine for a DD street car . I changed mine mainly due to blowing an engine at the track on 1/8th tank on a long sweeper. Read MMs first post on the Fuel pump upgrade thread .

It isn't that it "doesn't work". It just doesn't work correctly.
You can do all kinds of chicanery to get it to "work", but it is still mucking about.