No Horn, No remote trunk release??
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
No Horn, No remote trunk release??
A week or so ago I left the interior light on for about five days (in garage and snowed in) and the battery was dead. A neighbor came over and plowed my driveway and gave me a jumpstart, the alarm and hazard flashers went crazy upon entering or exiting the car. After recharging and driving it around for about 1 hour I put it back in the garage and then next morning no flashers or alarm on entering or exiting the car. But now I have no horn and can't open the trunk with the remote (this isn't a big deal). The car locks fine and flashes when locked but no beep. I pulled the horn fuse and it is fine. I guess it could be the rely and will swap it with a similar one (FOG I believe the poster said). If it works should I go to Auto Zone or Mazda to get a new relay? And also which fuse controls the trunk opener?
#4
Metatron
iTrader: (1)
If the computer got confused by the run-down and subsequent boost, you should reset the whole system by disconnecting the ground terminal for ten minutes.
Might work, might not, but better than replacing bits at random......
Might work, might not, but better than replacing bits at random......
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thank you darnellm - come to think of it my neighbor was rootin around in my glovebox and probably pushed it for some reason. Went out and checked and sure enought trunk remote was turned off. That problem is solved! Thank you!
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
StealthTL -- Ok here is a stupid question -- is the ground terminal the post that has the wires going to it (when standing in front of the car the post closest to me?? and how is this removed? Will I get shocked? I think when I asked my ex what to do he said that maybe the computer needed to be reset and suggested the same thing. Darn maybe he was right.
#7
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
Join Date: Feb 2007
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It is the one closest to you.........and it should be marked with a "-" or "neg" on top of the battery.
You will not get shocked and will need a 10mm wrench.
Well, you can get shocked if you let the wrench touch both battery posts at the same time, or let the terminal with the wires that you are taking off touch the other side....................so don't.
When you loosen the negative side, do it just enough to pull the terminal off the battery post and then let it just sit somewhere on plastic. You could even put a rag somewhere and let it sit on that...............which is usually what I do.
Now.................if you do this........what Stealth didn't tell you is that after you let it sit for a good 15 minutes, when you get in the car, turn the key to "On" but don't start it.
Turn your wheel all the way to the right and then all the way to the left(this will be a little bit hard to do, but do it), then turn the key off.
This will reset the DCS/TCS. After that, you can start as normal and you should be fine.
Unplugging the battery for awhile can also reset the fuel trims, so don't be alarmed if the car seems to run different for a few drive cycles as it relearns the fuel trims.
You will not get shocked and will need a 10mm wrench.
Well, you can get shocked if you let the wrench touch both battery posts at the same time, or let the terminal with the wires that you are taking off touch the other side....................so don't.
When you loosen the negative side, do it just enough to pull the terminal off the battery post and then let it just sit somewhere on plastic. You could even put a rag somewhere and let it sit on that...............which is usually what I do.
Now.................if you do this........what Stealth didn't tell you is that after you let it sit for a good 15 minutes, when you get in the car, turn the key to "On" but don't start it.
Turn your wheel all the way to the right and then all the way to the left(this will be a little bit hard to do, but do it), then turn the key off.
This will reset the DCS/TCS. After that, you can start as normal and you should be fine.
Unplugging the battery for awhile can also reset the fuel trims, so don't be alarmed if the car seems to run different for a few drive cycles as it relearns the fuel trims.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 01-02-2010 at 02:58 PM.
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Finally found a 10mm, he must have every size wrench ever made! I was able to loosen the bolt and pryed the thing off of the post. Came in and set the kitchen timer for fifteen minutes, but will give a couple more minutes.
Last edited by rxgirrl; 01-02-2010 at 03:33 PM.
#10
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Thread Starter
Reconnected the battery and reset the DCS/TCS. The car ran real rough and wanted to cut out. I was afraid that it would flood so I ran it pretty hard and then drove it for about twenty minutes and it was fine. The horn still doesn't work, may need to replace. Thanks to all that replied.
#11
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
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The rough riding was to be expected like I said. It can even stall out a few times........don't get upset about that. It will be okay after two or three times.
I'll research the whole horn thing and see if I have any other suggestions or things to try.
I'll research the whole horn thing and see if I have any other suggestions or things to try.
#12
Super Moderator
If your car is a Series II RX-8, you are posting in the S2 Forums, then you do not need to remove any of the Batteries Terminals, you can just PULL the 15 AMP Interior Room Fuse located by your Drivers FEET (LH SIDE), it is the bottom Blue 15 AMP fuse, remove for a period of time and replace) this will reset your comp.
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