NA EMU Tuning
#28
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
As it stands now, I do +15° trailing, -5° leading at idle (20° total negative split).
At manifold vacuum of approximately -45 kPa and less (down to the limit of normal running, which is about -65 kPa), I keep the trailing 20° ahead of the leading, putting it at a maximum of 58° BTDC at the lightest loads and vacuum.
Above 6800 RPM, I begine to diminish and negative split until there is none at 8200 RPM.
I taper to positive split (up to 20° around torque peak at all loading points) starting at -15 kPa.
At manifold vacuum of approximately -45 kPa and less (down to the limit of normal running, which is about -65 kPa), I keep the trailing 20° ahead of the leading, putting it at a maximum of 58° BTDC at the lightest loads and vacuum.
Above 6800 RPM, I begine to diminish and negative split until there is none at 8200 RPM.
I taper to positive split (up to 20° around torque peak at all loading points) starting at -15 kPa.
#29
Originally Posted by Brettus
I'm still NA - have kept AFR's around 13 - 13.5 only because thats what people have recommended here .
For me the big gains were from timing changes . About 20whp .
For me the big gains were from timing changes . About 20whp .
#31
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Originally Posted by CoupeM
My tuner told me that there is little gains to be had from advancing the timing(i guess cause the renesis already have a ton of it), the main gain came from running 13.8. Please advice if I have been wrong.
#33
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Originally Posted by Brettus
I'll ask - what is LBT , MBT & RBT ?
LBT = Lean Best Torque
MBT = Mean Best Torque
RBT = Rich Best Torque
LBT is the leanest A/F you can run before you loose power. MBT is the A/F at which you make the most power on average and RBT is the fattest mix you can run before you loose power.
MBT is what you shoot for under the best conditions. RBT is a realistic street A/F target and LBT is where you go for the absolute most power on a motor you are willing to tear down at the end of the day.
Originally Posted by Brettus
My tuner says our gas (Here in NZ) is the problem & thats why we got a better result retarding the timing . I found that hard to believe but it worked .
Effectively higher octane fuel will need more advance and lower less.
Certainly here in Phoenix where the gas is some sort of mix of lizzard **** and meth, you get more power from a LOT less timing.
#35
I am having a couple of issues with the car. Do not know if it is due to the emu or other factors.
1) After flooring the accelerator then i down clutch to free fear and cruise to the traffic light, the car stall.
2) My ilde is erratic as in there is some hesitation once in awhile..it is not a smooth idle. My tuner told me he never touch the idling map.
For both of the about, wat could be the possible problem? Thanks.
1) After flooring the accelerator then i down clutch to free fear and cruise to the traffic light, the car stall.
2) My ilde is erratic as in there is some hesitation once in awhile..it is not a smooth idle. My tuner told me he never touch the idling map.
For both of the about, wat could be the possible problem? Thanks.
#37
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I have the rick shaw unit and the tuner was only able to only get from 13 to 15 hp himself he said he tryed everything in the book. So i think everyone else is having the same results.
#38
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Sorry.
LBT = Lean Best Torque
MBT = Mean Best Torque
RBT = Rich Best Torque
LBT is the leanest A/F you can run before you loose power. MBT is the A/F at which you make the most power on average and RBT is the fattest mix you can run before you loose power.
MBT is what you shoot for under the best conditions. RBT is a realistic street A/F target and LBT is where you go for the absolute most power on a motor you are willing to tear down at the end of the day.
LBT = Lean Best Torque
MBT = Mean Best Torque
RBT = Rich Best Torque
LBT is the leanest A/F you can run before you loose power. MBT is the A/F at which you make the most power on average and RBT is the fattest mix you can run before you loose power.
MBT is what you shoot for under the best conditions. RBT is a realistic street A/F target and LBT is where you go for the absolute most power on a motor you are willing to tear down at the end of the day.
#40
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Originally Posted by smrx8
He should open his own shop dam it, in new jersey if possible were dying here for a good tuner.
#44
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In a week or so I'm starting to play with a canzoomer 1.1 in open loop, I plan on getting 13.2 AFR on the upper revs and then dynoing it and go a little higher, my AFRs here: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-engine-tuning-forum-63/can-i-gain-something-canzoomer-afr-table-inside-109322/
Curiously I get different AFRs from second gear pulls and third gear pulls!
If you come to Spain my offer is solid, I've to spare rooms in my house but you could face a bunch of very eager spanish RX8 users since there isn't a single good tuner over here.
Curiously I get different AFRs from second gear pulls and third gear pulls!
If you come to Spain my offer is solid, I've to spare rooms in my house but you could face a bunch of very eager spanish RX8 users since there isn't a single good tuner over here.
Last edited by juanjux; 02-13-2007 at 04:04 AM.