canzoomer

I spent some time this last week tuning.

We were working on a few things:
1) Highway Fuel economy
2) Comparing the "L" flash to the "K" flash I had in before.
3) Working on making a tune map that removed the "dips and bumps" in the power curve.
4) Devising a map that will work with the old "K" and new "L" ECU flashes from Mazda.

I am doing a series of posts on this topic this weekend, and this is the first one.

As you may have heard from various postings the new version of our setup is now incorporating full ignition control in all versions, so that the difference "in the box" from now on is only the tuning maps provided.
Along that theme I have some good news for those of you who ordered Stage 2:
(Drum roll please)

ALL Stage 1 and Stage 2 units are now the same price!
$600

All Stage1 may be upgraded to Stage2 with a re-flash of the tuning map

All Previously shipped Stage1 units may be upgraded to the new hardware version and maps for free. All you pay is the freight charges.

More to follow.

canzoomer

Fuel economy results, all on the same stretch of highway, same road conditions, on cruise control at 135 to 145kmh (84-90mph)
Mostly on cruise control at 135, a bit of short stretches passing at 145. A few moments waiting for idiots to get out of the left lane.

Using Shell Optimax fuel, 91 PON octane.
rpm at this speed is between 4,100(135kmh) and 4,800(145kmh)

On "K" ECU flash, old Stage1 map:

litres Avg
KM Miles filled Speed L/100km mpg
326 203 51.3 135.00 15.72 14.96



On "L" ECU flash, old Stage1 map:

litres Avg
KM Miles filled Speed L/100km mpg
243 151 36.1 135.00 14.86 15.83


On "L" ECU flash, NEW Stage1 map:

litres Avg
KM Miles filled Speed L/100km mpg
184 114 22.5 135.00 12.22 19.24

I am so damned proud of that last one!

racerdave

Whoa! Look at that last mileage jump! Holy cow! :D

So would you say that your Stage 1 now is easier to adapt to future potential Mazda ECU changes than before?

Also looking forward to more descriptions on how the L flash "feels" different and the revised Stage 1 as well...

Sanguine_Dark

umm....Wow

"ALL Stage 1 and Stage 2 units are now the same price!
$600"

Question.. If a stage one is puchased now but later wants to upgrade to stage two (or greater) and install the midpipe etc, how much will the upgrade for the ECU be (midpipe seperate)

Absolutely great work CanZ, You are the difinitive 'man' of ingenuity. Nice work on the MPG too!!

Now if only there was a turbo to go with all these goodies....(ha ha)

racerdave

Oh yeah... and dyno plots too.

Sea Ray

It sounds like it was very much worth the wait. Now I want it worse than ever

Thanks for the hard work.

Lock & Load

Maurice

Thanks for the last e-mail , i will definetely be keeping a close eye on your forum .
cheers
michael

canzoomer

"L" flash feels smoother.
They did some interesting tricks in it.
Leaned out some areas a whole bunch, then retarded timing to compensate to prevent pinging.
Other areas that were lean before also received the ignition retard trick, as they had some cases of pinging on stock cars in hot, humid, sea level uses.

It is now easier to adapt adn revise our tuning maps as all models are now flash upgradeable.

We are about to start supplying a reflash kit, with cable and software to allow map upgrades for $75.
We also now have the full tuning kit with cable and software available for $150.

In the latter case do not consider it unless you are also prepared to fork out for a proper wideband lambda sensor, and logger, having it installed in the exhaust, and have some knowledge of what fuel/air ratios mean! If you do it blind I pretty well guarantee you will be causing pinging.
It is also really a good idea to install at least one pyrometer ( exhaust gas temperature probe and gauge) so you can keep an eye on that too. Certain combinations of ignition advance and fuel/air ratio will result in exhaust gas temperatures that will cook your catalytic converter.

canzoomer

Cost of upgrading a Stage1 to Stage 2 for ones we already shipped is free. Email me, and i will give you the details for shipping, etc.

Cost to upgrade Stage1 map to Stage2 map will be the cost of the programming cable and flash program.
One may also buy the full programming software and cable for $150.

One warning if you are buying the latter:
The maps we ship are locked on our units.
That means you have to start from scratch on doing your own tuning.

We have to do that for warranty reasons. If somebopdy monkeyed with a Stage1, went too lean, or too much advance, clobbered their engine, then tried to blame us, we can tell if they are running our map, or if they did their own thing.

Once you overwrite our original map, that one is GONE.
It has a unique ID in it, and is encrypted and password protected.

canzoomer

I don't have dyno runs handy yet, but have been doing some GTEech Pro Comp runs.

The following ones were done in conditions that are not exactly ideal for drag racing, so disregard the horribly low power and times. Just look at the two runs for comparison.
These were done in my car, absolutely stock, except with the Stage 1 turned on and off.
Road conditions:
Winter 17" tires. Nokian 225/45/17 "WR"
-9C (16F)
Two people in car, haf a tank of gas.
Running weight of 3,432 lbs (1560Kg)
Altitude of 3,000 feet (about 914 meters)

Highway which was clear of snow and ice, but a bit on the slick side. Slight uphill incline.
Both runs were done on exactly the same part of the road and direction.
Ignore the rpm settings as I had my calibration screwed up as I recently upgraded the GTech firmware and forgot to recalibrate the rpm calibrations.

Runs were done with a clutch dump at about 3,500rpm, and quite a bit of clutch slip to keep the tires reasonable engaged, and the car straight.

Black line run with Stage1 engaged.
Red line run with stock settings, no modifications.

canzoomer

HP/Time

The dip in 1st gear is tire spin when it came on at 4,900rpm.
The 3rd and 4th gear parts are most useful, as there was no tire spin.

canzoomer

Speed vs. Time.
0-60is better than a second faster.
Look at that nice flat line in 3rd and 4th!

canzoomer

GForce.
1st gear was pretty well useless. All i could get was tirespin.

adrian-1

So what about the details of:
4) Devising a map that will work with the old "K" and new "L" ECU flashes from Mazda.

with the NEW Stage1 map since that's what I'll be getting. I will try to get the dealership to reflash it to the L version while I'm getting the airbag recall in a couple of weeks. But I'm unsure they'll do the reflash since I don't have a check engine light.

So should I wait til I get the L reflash to use with the new map or is it ok to use the old version with the new map. (My unit should be shipping soon).
Thanks,

93rdcurrent

Adrian 1,

The dealer will re-flash it. Tell them you get the CEL while pulling away from a stop if they give you a hard time. I just had it done. They wrote it in my service order and even stated that they couldn't get it to happen and didn't show any codes from the ECU. They still gave the the latest version.