THANKS, Jason!

 

btw, can you post a screenshot of the stage2 map? I haven't been able to get my hands on it and would like to try it out

 

I got the maps from CZ, not sure if I'm allowed to?.??

Your opinion?

 

I have this two files:

000STAGE1-Sept13-MFlash-CZ1.GSC
000-STAGE2-Sept13-MFlash-CZ1.GSC

 

My progess is going slow right now. My CANscan isn't working for some weird reason. Dan has given me instructions on diagnosing it, but I haven't tried it yet. So much stuff going on with school that my freetime has been dedicated to it.

I have experimented something though and I am still tracking the results. Basically, I added a new column under the airflow matrix. It's called 1500 :D That's right, I'm experimenting the 3000rpm range for MPG gains. So far, the needle has been moving slower than I'm used to. I haven't logged the data on CANscan since I can't... yet.

My goal is to set two kinds of maps, power and MPG maps. If I could get them all in one map, that would be awesome.

 

In closed loop, the ECU constantly tries to get your car to 14.7, so trying to tweak a random map that is already near perfect seems a little odd. I no longer even bother with anything under 5,000 rpm when maping my results because the car controls that, not CZ.

 

Ah yes, I thought so too. But I'm just trying it just to find out :D

 

I thought canzoomer added ignition advance tuning so you get slight gains below 5000 (AFR all ready 14.7 in closed loop as previously stated) Maybe try a slight modification of ignition advance at cruise (3500-4000). Watch out for ping though.

 

The lower RPM ignition advance you are talking about was there in the stock map. That's what was causing the stupid lugging. And it was only "2" degrees of advance! Yikes!

I did have a slight ping when I set the Airflow adjustment to 3% in the lower RPM. So, I'm sticking with 1% and see if it affects anything. If not, I'll try 2% on the next tank.

 

My car has what may be an occasional very slight ping but no lugging when accelerating slowly in 1st & 2nd at around 2k rpm. This occurs with the canzoomer turned on or off. I hear it more frequently when the car is cold. It may just be a vibration, because the type of gas does not affect it and it has never cut power. Anyway I am waiting for a CANscan unit to investigate.

Are both the ignition and fuel modifications cut off when the CZ unit is off.

 

what's the range of MAF V you guys are using for advance? my map is 0-3.00, and many of you are talking about 0-3.3. my rev range is 4400,5400, 5400-8000 in increments of 200, and 8000,8400. and why not go all the way to 9000?

a map or screenshot would be very helpful

I'm also zeroing out the 4400 rpm column so that the emanage doesnt screw with my timing below that (as per genom's suggestion)

 

Brian (aka epi),

For the advance I went from 3.0 to 4.05. I really don't think any setting uder 1.2 is useful. At idle you car is at 1.2 so at 4400 rpm your airflow is already higher than 1.2. Actually I'm going to change the setting to 2 to 3.5 because I never seen the voltages go above 3.8. That what I've observed.

I didn't go beyond 8400 because I actually okay in that range. That's not to say I couldn't improve.

 

the car's rpms appear to be a bit lower in the computer than displayed. I can redline it and not reach 9,000 rpm in the mapping.

I also found that I can exceed the cutoff point with CZ, and the whole car starts to shut down with lights flashing, so I've been careful to let off the gas when I hear the buzzer.

 

My Airflow gets up to 4.07. 3.0 is a reasonable start if your RPM starts at 4000 rpms. Anything below that rarely opens up a >3.0 airflow voltage.

 

son of a frikkin b!tch..... grrrrr


I'm probably the first person to have an unsucessful installation attempt. It turns out the one of the bolts holding the ecu cover is stripped (well actually its not stripped, the plastic that holds the threaded insert broke so the insert just spins with the bolt). So after an hour and a half i gave up. I have no idea how to get the damn thing off other then trying to chisel the bolt head off...

 

Sorry to hear that pr0ber

 

just get some vice grips and tear that bitch out of there

 

I think the same thing happened to me. When putting the CZ box cover back on one of the bolts felt stripped when tightning. I was a bit concerned it might work loose. Also, I had a hard time moving the cable harness to get the thing to fit.

I got my cable today but the CANScan still has not shipped.

 

Well, I just got my CZ-Stage 1 back from CZ and it's updated. Got the CZ-Prog2 kit too. Still need the CZ-CANSCAN-RX-8 system and a laptop.



Anyway, are you guys sure about moving that wire? My reason for asking is that Maurice didn't put it there in the first place. Why didn't he? My unit, fresh from an update still has the wire in the 1/2 rpm location. Why? Seems hard to believe they're putting the wire in the wrong place - they must have a reason.



I could use some good advice on my upcoming laptop purchase too, while you're at it... I have yet to see a laptop for sale with a serial port (for the canscan). How does that work?



My Stage 1 is sitting right here in front of me - cover off, if anyone wants me to ask me anything or take a picture...

 

the 1/2 rpm is an artifact from the days of stage 1.0.

It's not needed, but it just seems easier to me to keep things all on the same page.

 

As Brian said, this was from when stage 1 didn't allow you to modify the maps, so there was no need to make it user friendly.


You can buy a serial->usb adaptor from compusa for $29.95 (they also had a $40 version, but you don't need it). I tried bestbuy, but they no longer carry them. As far as a laptop, I have a huge 19" widescreen laptop and I can tell you bigger isn't better when you're trying to work in the car. If I had to buy a laptop just to tune the car, I'd buy a sony C1X. It's tiny, and can fit in one hand. The Sony N505 line is good too. Both should be pretty cheap these days and can last in the 3 hour range (I used to own both)

 

OK, but, mine just got updated from the old dipswitch version. Got the major update from that version. They still, to this very day, wire it to the 1/2 rpm location. I'm not trying to make waves, it just doesn't make sense...

 

Update - lookout! Just ordered a laptop using this unbelievable $750 off Dell deal.

https://www.rx8club.com/lounge-4/dell-deal-750-off-1500-all-inspiron-laptops-42413/

Wow, what a deal!

Still waiting on an answer to my above concern... My CZ-1 is still sitting here in front of me, and will go back in as-is pretty soon unless somebody can convince me that moving that wire is definitely ok.

 

It 's OK to run full and half RPM maps....no difference really. The Stage 3 unit uses full RPM maps..... Just make sure that you use the correct maps! :D I converted mine to full RPM to make tuning easier for me to understand........no RPM data conversions

 

Ah ha! The maps that are loaded into the unit must be converted to full rpm at the time that the wire is relocated? Am I right?

I need to load my new prog software & get my canscan, me thinks, to gain a much better understanding of what the heck all this banter means that y'all are posting-up around here. You know, until you get some hands-on with this kind of stuff, it just aint gonna sink-in and make much of any kind of sense.

Am I right about the simultaneous tasks thing above though...